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bandycoot
Dec 2, 2002, 5:39 PM
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What is an RP? I probably know...but I'm just not familiar with the abbreviation!
thanks
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rrrADAM
Dec 2, 2002, 5:50 PM
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Very little Bronze Stoppers I think. Ask an Aid climber, they would use them.
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bradbaker
Dec 2, 2002, 5:51 PM
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Brass micro nuts.
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bandycoot
Dec 2, 2002, 5:53 PM
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I HAVE those!!! Second question... why are they called RPs? What does it stand for?
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climblouisiana
Dec 2, 2002, 5:53 PM
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Usually a mix of aluminum and another softer metal like brass. They look like tiny stoppers and fit in very tiny cracks.
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wigglestick
Dec 2, 2002, 6:01 PM
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RP's are a brand name for tiny nuts. They are called RP's because the original creator was Rolando P-something, hence RP was the name. I think another now makes nuts with the RP label. Although I like to think that the RP stands for Really Poor.
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bandycoot
Dec 2, 2002, 7:13 PM
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Thank you very much, all of you. Your info was appreciated!
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fixxervi6
Dec 2, 2002, 8:13 PM
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I'm a trad newbie, and I've seen the brass nuts, I've been told they are for the smaller placements, where a standard nut of the same size may be too small and pull or break the rock out and pull, the brass / alloy nut will deform into the rock and hold better, correct? So my question is, when would I be looking to use them? I climb granite mostly, so I don't think I need them on that, the only limestone I have done is TR in the past, and I plan to get some sandstone in, would the brass ones be good on sandstone?
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philbox
Moderator
Dec 2, 2002, 8:29 PM
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You would definitely want to use RP`s only in hard rock. Last I heard the guy who was making RP`s is still making them in his shed up the back yard. He started making them for some thin unclimbed routes at Arapiles in Western Victoria, Australia.
When looking to buy RP`s make sure you get the genuine article where the cables both enter the body of the brass nut together. Other makes can have a gap there. This gap can make a difference, when placing RP`s in shallow placements the outer wire can torque the piece out whereas the genuine RP will stay in place.
Yes RP`s were named after the initials of the inventor of this marvellous piece of micro pro.
Stand up on the smallest piece and hear that baby sing. The tiny wires on that jigger can be tuned like a violin string.
...Phil...
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marks
Dec 2, 2002, 8:40 PM
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they will rip on sandstone,i dont trust them on grit{which is like hard sand stone}you are best going without.at least you know how far you are going to fall.
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ambler
Dec 2, 2002, 8:45 PM
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RP stands for Roland Pauligk, the Australian who
designed them. They were the first of the brass
micro-nuts, so "RP" is sometimes used to refer
to any such nut.
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topher
Dec 4, 2002, 2:00 AM
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i have set of HB off sets there good. they hold like 5kn and fite in small and small flaring placments. ive onyl fallen on one once, not fun. it was a bigger one to #5 i think. if you climb stuff that has lots of broken craks but its more like a face climb the little guys come in handy
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redpoint73
Dec 4, 2002, 7:18 PM
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Black Diamond makes Copper Steel micro-stoppers. They "bite" into soft rock more, and are less likely to break soft rock. The smallest 3 pieces are not fall rated (body weight only), since the wires are just held with solder on teh smaller sizes.
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alpinelynx
Dec 4, 2002, 8:36 PM
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here's a scary thought. I found an HB brass and a BD micro nut slung together in decomposing granite (bail?). I just lifted them out and went on my way. It gave me the heebies, I wouldn't have trusted it for a rappel.
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stevematthys
Dec 4, 2002, 8:41 PM
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RP stands for Really Poor, (j/k)
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