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fitch
Dec 3, 2002, 1:12 AM
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When you inspect your ropes, how can you tell if the core is still in good condition?
I washed my rope this weekend, and when it came out of the washing machine it had a small section (about 1 to 1.5 inches) that was abraded. Has anybody else had this happen? Did I damage the core too, or just the sheath? How do I tell?
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ontario_guide
Dec 3, 2002, 1:39 AM
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It is not uncommon for the core to get fuzzy sometimes. This in itself is not really a problem. What you want to look for is hard or soft spots and most importantly, core sticking through the sheath. You'll know when that happens because there will be soft white material bulging up through the sheath. When that happens buy a new rope. Otherwise it should be OK. By the way how do you wash your rope? I only wash mine by hand but that takes a long time. Don't wash it using any harsh detergints and do not ever bleach it. Maybe if you could post a picture of the "damage" I could give you a better opinion but it sounds as if it's OK.
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fitch
Dec 3, 2002, 1:47 AM
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Thanks Jeff, Did you mean " It is not uncommon for the [sheath] to get fuzzy sometimes"?
I washed it with by hand with liquid hand soap (didn't want to wait to buy woolite) and put it in the washer without soap to rinse it better than I had been able to by hand. I'll work in posting a pic, maybe I'll take it in to the local shop and have them look it over. thanks again, rob
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ontario_guide
Dec 3, 2002, 1:50 AM
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yea sorry, I did mean you sheath, your core shouldn't be getting fuzzy at all! Basically the best way to keep your rope clean is to keep it out of the mud. One way to help with this is to get a good rope bag. Of course your rope is always going to get dirty no matter what you do.
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fitch
Dec 3, 2002, 1:52 AM
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It seems like the thing that gets my rope dirty the fastest is the black aluminium oxide off of gear, (is that what it is?) is there anything I can do to keep gear from putting that on my rope?
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ontario_guide
Dec 3, 2002, 1:54 AM
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That could be it. It's probably more the dirt from the crag or the dust from the gym. If you are worried about it try using annodized 'biners instead of "naked" ones. The annodization wears off fairly quickly but it may help. Just a thought.
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fitch
Dec 3, 2002, 1:56 AM
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Thanks alot Jeff!
How do you guys inspect your ropes, is there more to it than looking at the sheath and feeling for soft or hard spots?
[ This Message was edited by: fitch on 2002-12-02 21:07 ]
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ontario_guide
Dec 3, 2002, 1:57 AM
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No problem. If you do get a photo of it send it to me by e-mail.
Dpilot71@hotmail.com
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fitch
Dec 3, 2002, 9:04 PM
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I have a question for the moderators. With the way the thread up until now was sort of a dialog between just Jeff and me, should we have talked in email or PM, or is it appropriate for a forum like this? Thanks
PS - I'm still curious about how everybody carries out their rope inspecting rituals.
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climbhigh23
Dec 3, 2002, 9:22 PM
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i don't do anything fancy to inspect my rope, basically just run it through my hands, keeping an eye out for core fiber sticking out through the sheath, and feeling for hard/soft spots, or hour-glasses. hope this helps...
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jaybee
Dec 3, 2002, 9:26 PM
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I do a visual and tactile inspection of my ropes. I typically do this while flaking it out, so I get to inspect it before each use. I simply hold the rope lightly in my left hand, squeezing it just slightly, and pull it through with my right hand. I am feeling for lumps, picks, flat spots, etc.. with my left hand and visually inspect the rope, one pull at a time. You get really good at this over time (my works policy requires that we inspect each rope, harness, helmet, etc... before use).
Recent studies have shown that a dirty rope isn't much weaker than a clean one, but a dirty rope will perpetuate the rubbing that black aluminum oxide off your gear by acting like sandpaper on the aluminum... which will also eventually wear through your gear, but worse than that, causes your palms to get all black.
I use a metolious rope bag... it helps a lot, but my rope still gets dirty.
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bandycoot
Dec 3, 2002, 11:32 PM
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I make a loop of the rope, or a small 1" bite and see if it closes while I roll through the entire rope. It takes a while so recruit a girlfriend telling her that her help now will keep you alive later or some other BS (worked for me). I retired a rope recently because the "eye" closed completely and I could also feel that part of the rope was very soft relative to the rest.
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loosaboy
Dec 4, 2002, 12:05 AM
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There's a good .pdf at this link;
http://www.uiaa.ch/journal/
'Equipment and its Application'
It has a part on ropes and the effects of age, as well as some other real good info.
PIECE
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wlderdude
Dec 4, 2002, 3:25 AM
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I do the rolling looop thing. Just be aware that the rope core has twists in it to make it dynamic, so there will be some fluctuation of how big your loop is just from the twist. If you can move the spot that has a slighly smaller bend, then the core is probably not damaged.
I just retired my rope when a large rock rolled on it while my brother was rappeling. We had to use it to get off the mountain, though. While getting down in the dark, by brother rapped down and had to come back up. I just belayed him and he climbed back up.
As I was feeding in the rope I felt a spot that just felt wrong. I looked at it with my headlamp and the sheath was badly worn beyond fuzz and the core felt like it was damaged. It was just top rope, but I am really glad he did not fall!
So I guess what I am saying is that being aware of how the rope feels is important. On the rock is a lousy place to learn the rope you are climbing with is now a haul line.
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fitch
Dec 4, 2002, 3:46 AM
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Thanks everybody! Boy, I am really enjoying that site you linked to Eric. thanks!
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djmicro
Dec 4, 2002, 4:49 AM
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For us the best way of inspecting is by rolling the rope with your hands about 5cm apart. The rope should be bending 'softly'. If the rope makes sudden 90-180 degree turns you shouldn't be climbing with that rope.
As with the washing, I would never trust a machine with my rope.
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fitch
Dec 4, 2002, 5:01 AM
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I don't think I will either, anybody have a different way to efficiently rinse ropes well? (just rinsing it by hand didn't seem to get the soap out very well)
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jake
Dec 10, 2002, 12:33 PM
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The UIAA says to use the rope until the core is visible! Then discard it, although it is still safe but it can handle badly. So a guess inspecting a rope is real easy. If there is white stuff sticking out don't use it. Good link to UIAA!
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