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rl23455
Sep 3, 2009, 6:45 PM
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So if I drill and set a 1/4" wedge anchor bolt and put the nut and washer on, then slide a rivet hanger over the nut and washer, how well will the rivet hanger stay on? Do I tighten the nut over the rivet hanger? Or just leave the nut loose? When I get to the top I want to recover the rivet hangers, am on a budget.
I have regular 3/8" hangers I could put on a 1/4" bolt, but am afraid of torque on the bolt. Plus the washer they include with the wedge anchor might not be good steel.
p.s. I'm going to a very remote area that does not see any rock climbing. I just need to get up the wall, so 1/4" will work. Italy uses 5/16" by the way.
thanks
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karcand
Sep 3, 2009, 7:40 PM
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I would say don't climbing in this area if you are going to drill, bolt and then unbolt.
Climbers get enough heck about scaring the rock, and you are going to scare the rock just so you can do one climb once. I think this is not cool. How about you start to delevope the craig you are going to so other can enjoy it and as fellow climbers for donation to fund the project.
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majid_sabet
Sep 3, 2009, 8:00 PM
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wedge anchor need to be torqued to their specific setting for them to stay on right. you also need the washer to apply proper pressure to the hanger. going direct from nut to hanger will make the nut loose during anchor movement and washer will prevent the nut from becoming loose. Also, you need ,min of three threads sticking out of the nut when using non-locking (self locking nut). using locking washers should be avoided at all time since they have a tendency to pull the wedge over time.
1/4 bolt should not be used for belay or main anchor but they do well on aid and bail.
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uni_jim
Sep 4, 2009, 6:20 PM
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karcand wrote: I would say don't climbing in this area if you are going to drill, bolt and then unbolt. Climbers get enough heck about scaring the rock, and you are going to scare the rock just so you can do one climb once. I think this is not cool. How about you start to delevope the craig you are going to so other can enjoy it and as fellow climbers for donation to fund the project.
he is not sport climbing, he's doing a fa on a wall that does not sound likely to be repeated.
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rl23455
Sep 5, 2009, 3:56 PM
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yeah well, I didn't even bother to respond to that comment.
I'm concerned about using rivet hangers on an overhung wall.
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pbcowboy77
Sep 5, 2009, 4:13 PM
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If your gonna put a nut and washer on the rivet it won't be too bad, just don't be lazy and drill that rivet all the way in or it will put some mean torque on it.
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rl23455
Sep 5, 2009, 4:39 PM
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I meant this rivet hanger hanging off a washer and nut. see attached jpg. [DSCN3001a.gif]
(This post was edited by rl23455 on Sep 5, 2009, 4:48 PM)
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DSCN3001a.jpg
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DSCN3001a.gif
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pbcowboy77
Sep 5, 2009, 6:02 PM
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Yeah should be fine. Some people don't put nuts on rivets, on overhanging rock they drill them downward and mushroom the tip and call it good.
So if drill the hole in a slightly downward angle and use a nut and washer you'll be fine. If you use q cinch style rivet hanger it will give you more bite...
Zac
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tomtom
Sep 5, 2009, 11:11 PM
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You could also use fender washers (larger od for the same id) which will probably keep the hanger on a little better.
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macblaze
Sep 6, 2009, 2:50 AM
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karcand wrote: Climbers get enough heck about scaring the rock, and you are going to scare the rock
New sig!
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avalon420
Sep 6, 2009, 4:00 AM
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macblaze wrote: karcand wrote: Climbers get enough heck about scaring the rock, and you are going to scare the rock New sig!
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