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Julka7
Oct 28, 2009, 1:13 AM
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Someone fell off Ape Call this monday. Does anyone have any info? Does anyone know the name of the person? I have a suspicion that it's someone that I spoke to that morning, wanted to confirm..
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coolcat83
Oct 28, 2009, 1:49 AM
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Do you know where they fell off? Injuries?
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Julka7
Oct 28, 2009, 2:12 AM
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This is info I got from the ranger -- the guy fell from about 25 feet, decked and broke his back. He did not lose consciousness.
This is second hand info.
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TheRucat
Oct 28, 2009, 2:48 AM
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Hmm yeah, if its the climb im thinking of and remember correctly the gear is pretty sparse for the first 25 feet or so of that climb. I don't think I placed any gear till quite a ways up on that one.
Broken back doesn't sound good, hope he recovers well!
(This post was edited by TheRucat on Oct 28, 2009, 2:49 AM)
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marc801
Oct 28, 2009, 4:26 AM
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TheRucat wrote: Hmm yeah, if its the climb im thinking of and remember correctly the gear is pretty sparse for the first 25 feet or so of that climb. I don't think I placed any gear till quite a ways up on that one.
Best wishes for an uncomplicated recovery.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 28, 2009, 11:43 AM
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If the rout was historicaly protected by fixed gear, why would the pin not be replaced with a new pin or bolt?
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marc801
Oct 28, 2009, 2:22 PM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: If the rout was historicaly protected by fixed gear, why would the pin not be replaced with a new pin or bolt?
Short answer - the ethic in the Gunks is to not replace fixed pins if the placement will take a nut or cam or whatever. The ethic is also vehemently against retro-bolting.
Regarding that particular climb, that low crux was not really protected by a pin. Where you really wanted pro there's only a micro-nut thin horizontal filled with quartz crystals, most of which have now sheared off, leaving a flare. It was a tricky, sketch placement 30 years ago that you knew would probably blow in a fall. The pin under that kept you off the deck, maybe, depending on slack and rope stretch, but not necessarily from getting hurt. That pin was in a good horizontal that took a 1" cam. If that pin is gone, there's no need to replace it.
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anthonycb
Oct 28, 2009, 6:58 PM
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I think that the micronut placement in question isn't really that bad as long as you fall to the right-which is the direction one would expect since your are moving up and right toward the corner and top of the slab. If you fall left, it might pull depending on how well you set it. 5 feet below that (10 feet off the deck), there's a decent small cam placement and 5 or 6 feet past the micronut there's a good .75 or #1 camalot placement followed by another #2 camalot 3-5 feet past that. It's a really great climb marred only by about 20 feet of boring climbing in the middle and the issue of having to do one of the cruxes protected by a sideways micronut. The climb immediately to the right, Ape and Essence, on the other hand looks like a horror show to lead despite getting a PG in the Williams Guide.
I heard sirens in the early afternoon on Monday and was hoping that it wasn't an injury. Sorry to hear that it was. I hope that the injured party heals up quickly and completely.
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jtr109
Oct 29, 2009, 5:22 PM
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I helped carry the injured climber down on monday. I didn't catch his name. He had long hair and a beard and was climbing with a lady. It looked like he had placed two pieces, one was out to the left of the horizontal and did not appear to have been clipped. Just a guess, but I think he slipped while trying to make that clip.
He was awake, conscious and alert throughout. I don't know how extensive his injuries were. I think he and his partner gave some thought to self-transport to the hospital, though he was clearly hurting and I doubt that would have been possible. Hope it wasn't as serious as a broken back.
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