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chadnsc
Dec 10, 2009, 4:30 PM
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The truth will set you free!
New Girl: So what level do you climb at:
Guy: Well around here it's am 11a, At the Red I pull in the 11c, at Indian Creek I go at a 9+.
New Girl: Uhm, ok.
Then of course you can explain how each climbing area differs in climbing styles and rock type and how that affects your climbing grades. You'll of course be careful not to sound like you're making up excuses.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 10, 2009, 5:07 PM
Post #602 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! 
Liar.
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chadnsc
Dec 10, 2009, 5:21 PM
Post #603 of 794
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! Liar.
Nu-uh, I'm working a 13d! 
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 10, 2009, 5:23 PM
Post #604 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! Liar. Nu-uh, I'm working a 13d!
I was referring to you being able to do nine .11b moves.
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chadnsc
Dec 10, 2009, 5:25 PM
Post #605 of 794
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! Liar. Nu-uh, I'm working a 13d! I was referring to you being able to do nine .11b moves.
Actually I can do an .11 here and there, but alas not right now with two screws in my left shoulder.  I am by no means an .11 climber though.
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milesenoell
Dec 10, 2009, 11:58 PM
Post #606 of 794
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dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym?
Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed?
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CrazyPetie
Dec 11, 2009, 12:05 AM
Post #607 of 794
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milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed?
Yea tell those bitches you climb 5.13, like they even know what that means.
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chadnsc
Dec 11, 2009, 12:15 AM
Post #608 of 794
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milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed?
But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red? 
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blueeyedclimber
Dec 11, 2009, 12:46 AM
Post #609 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! Liar. Nu-uh, I'm working a 13d! I was referring to you being able to do nine .11b moves. Actually I can do an .11 here and there, but alas not right now with two screws in my left shoulder. I am by no means an .11 climber though.
poser.
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johnwesely
Dec 11, 2009, 12:49 AM
Post #610 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red?
Trick on the approach, claim you sprained your ankle, and then go back to Miguel's and eat pizza.
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jcrew
Dec 11, 2009, 1:25 AM
Post #611 of 794
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hey crazypete,
i as trying to show my bro the viddie today; see he's a real climber and only checks the net every couple weeks....anyway would you please replace the link...this thing is still gaining momentum.
dbrayack wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Hey Camhead(less) how do you consider what "grade" someone climbs?
only posers say things like "i'm a .12 climber", real climbers use qualifiers like " i sent a .12d sport route once after a siege" or " i got the OS on this .10+ crack"
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angry
Dec 11, 2009, 1:49 AM
Post #612 of 794
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dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym?
This happened to me today. A new to climbing girl that I've been chatting up and batting my eyelashes at lately and I were talking about the finer points of donkey punching.
Naturally when you talk with someone for literally days about donkey punching, you start to run out of different angles to breach the subject with. Of course I sent her thisTendonkey Punch.
Today at the gym she asked me "Is 12 hard then?"
I really had 2 options. Option one was to say "It's way fucking hard, I'm super sick, wanna feel my muscles baby!!?"
I chose option two where I said it's harder than 11 and not as hard as 13. I then explained that in an area with as little rock climbing as Bermuda, that it's pointless to even ponder grades because there simply isn't enough climbing to build a body of knowledge and the gym doesn't count.
I'm so going to donkey punch that girl.
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dbrayack
Dec 11, 2009, 3:46 AM
Post #613 of 794
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can i claim this thread successfully hijacked? (Oh how I missed RC.com)
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CrazyPetie
Dec 11, 2009, 4:22 AM
Post #614 of 794
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dbrayack wrote: can i claim this thread successfully hijacked? (Oh how I missed RC.com)
Oh its gonna take a lot more then that to hijack this baby. haha!
J-crew - Check my vimeo, the video is still up there. I used to be a real climber too before the "man" shut me down! haha
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CrazyPetie
Dec 11, 2009, 4:23 AM
Post #615 of 794
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chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red?
Shit, who are you hittin on, Katie Brown?
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chadnsc
Dec 11, 2009, 2:30 PM
Post #616 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red? Shit, who are you hittin on, Katie Brown?
Wouldn't you?
O course I could just stay local and hit on a few of my female climbing buddies. They'd just laugh though.
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dudemanbu
Dec 11, 2009, 2:35 PM
Post #617 of 794
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CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red? Shit, who are you hittin on, Katie Brown?
Katie Brown is pretty......
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angry
Dec 11, 2009, 2:47 PM
Post #618 of 794
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dudemanbu wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red? Shit, who are you hittin on, Katie Brown? Katie Brown is pretty......
Go to the Red or Rifle, you'll meet a dozen completely unknown women who are working (very well) 5.13's.
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dlintz
Dec 11, 2009, 2:56 PM
Post #619 of 794
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: chadnsc wrote: camhead wrote: chadnsc wrote: Yeah I never quite understood that, he climbs at a low .12 range but falls on a 5.9? Huh? no no no no... Petie said that the guy was PROJECTING 12a. There is a world of difference between someone who is a "solid" 12a leader, and someone who projects 12a, or can scuff their feet up a campusy v6. Pfft will I'm 'projecting' a .13d. Sure I've only gotten the first 9 moves that are more in the .11b range but hey I'm working a .13d baby! Liar. Nu-uh, I'm working a 13d! I was referring to you being able to do nine .11b moves.
Zing!
d.
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jcrew
Dec 11, 2009, 3:01 PM
Post #620 of 794
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angry wrote: dudemanbu wrote: CrazyPetie wrote: chadnsc wrote: milesenoell wrote: dbrayack wrote: Well, say at my home crag, I can onsite 5.10c or d, but if i went to Indian Creek, I had trouble on 5.9....what could I accurately brag to the girls in the gym? Accuracy when bragging to girls, and in a gym no less? Since when was accuracy important when their are girls to be shmoozed? But what you gonna do when the girl wants to go work some .13's with you this weekend at the Red? Shit, who are you hittin on, Katie Brown? Katie Brown is pretty...... Go to the Red or Rifle, you'll meet a dozen completely unknown women who are working (very well) 5.13's.
i'd jump that paige classen!
try to throw some non-climbing mack their way. strange, but it seems women like a guy who can talk about more than their latest "sends".
pete, sucks about the man! i once named a route, "free the ganja prisioneers".
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Alpine07
Dec 11, 2009, 3:02 PM
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dbrayack wrote: can i claim this thread successfully hijacked? (Oh how I missed RC.com)
Heh, yep. I completely forgot this thread wasn't about rating climbs until I read this.
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truello
Dec 11, 2009, 3:14 PM
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Rayman wrote: A few years back, a buddy of mine (who can be quite anal) told me he and his gal were setting on the South Summit at Seneca when one of Markwell's guides comes mantling over the east face, alone and unroped, having just soloed 'Soler'. My buddy starts lecturing him. The guide told him that the previous week he soloed 'Ecstasy', naked (ha-ha). Later my buddy mentioned the 'irresponsible' incident to Markwell. John's only comment was "that is the great thing about this country, you are free to go out and kill yourself anyway you want to". I'll leave it at that. I'll say one thing. The cat was inches (at most) from achieved his goal of being just like Bachar. Don't know what a human skull impacting that sharp arete from a fall of that height would look like - don't think that we would have seen any video of it as well. I've got scars from just walking thru the woods and tripping over my own two feet. Have to agree with Tim as well. They could have easily titled the video 'How to Close a Crag in Under Ten Seconds". Liked the video, though. Well edited and good music. Hope these guys put some more out there. I like watchin' that stuff. Not many people documenting anything around here, and it only gets better with age. Plus, I'm gettin' tired of doin' it and am ready to move on to new stuff. R
I wonder if he was the same guy that solo'd West Pole right after I flailed up it.
I recognized Mike (the guy in the video) and confirmed with a friend; he graduated a year before me from my high school. Glad to see that he survived with little more than a bruised ego.
I saw a similar fall from Eclipse a year or two ago. This guy was actually tied in but slipped at the anchors and his belayer didn't catch him at all. Inverted and fell on his helmet-less head in the scree. Somehow walked away with a sprained wrist and I think that's about it.
Have to agree with Tim and Rayman though. I fully support making your own choice to solo. The problem is, when something goes wrong it affects so many others.
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jcrew
Dec 11, 2009, 3:22 PM
Post #623 of 794
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truello wrote: Rayman wrote: A few years back, a buddy of mine (who can be quite anal) told me he and his gal were setting on the South Summit at Seneca when one of Markwell's guides comes mantling over the east face, alone and unroped, having just soloed 'Soler'. My buddy starts lecturing him. The guide told him that the previous week he soloed 'Ecstasy', naked (ha-ha). Later my buddy mentioned the 'irresponsible' incident to Markwell. John's only comment was "that is the great thing about this country, you are free to go out and kill yourself anyway you want to". I'll leave it at that. I'll say one thing. The cat was inches (at most) from achieved his goal of being just like Bachar. Don't know what a human skull impacting that sharp arete from a fall of that height would look like - don't think that we would have seen any video of it as well. I've got scars from just walking thru the woods and tripping over my own two feet. Have to agree with Tim as well. They could have easily titled the video 'How to Close a Crag in Under Ten Seconds". Liked the video, though. Well edited and good music. Hope these guys put some more out there. I like watchin' that stuff. Not many people documenting anything around here, and it only gets better with age. Plus, I'm gettin' tired of doin' it and am ready to move on to new stuff. R I wonder if he was the same guy that solo'd West Pole right after I flailed up it. I recognized Mike (the guy in the video) and confirmed with a friend; he graduated a year before me from my high school. Glad to see that he survived with little more than a bruised ego. I saw a similar fall from Eclipse a year or two ago. This guy was actually tied in but slipped at the anchors and his belayer didn't catch him at all. Inverted and fell on his helmet-less head in the scree. Somehow walked away with a sprained wrist and I think that's about it. Have to agree with Tim and Rayman though. I fully support making your own choice to solo. The problem is, when something goes wrong it affects so many others.
WTF is this? are we talking about solos or picking up 5.13 climbing chicks? Truello, get back on topic.
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dynosore
Dec 11, 2009, 3:23 PM
Post #624 of 794
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26 pages FTW!
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