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Fenst
Mar 3, 2010, 5:49 AM
Post #1 of 14
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Registered: Feb 1, 2007
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I am looking for a lightweight synthetic insulated jacket for a cold weather shoulder-season climbing belay jacket and also for a lightweight backpacking insulated jacket.
I was looking at the montbell jackets/parkas, Mountain Hardwear Compressor, Western Mountaineering flight series (down fill) and some different north face synthetic insulated jackets/parkas.
16 oz. plus or minus a few ounces was in my weight range I determined for a climbing/backpacking jacket. What does everyone else use and have success with?
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scottydo
Mar 3, 2010, 6:52 AM
Post #2 of 14
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Registered: Jun 3, 2007
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i have a compressor and I really like it. if i wear a warmer base/mid layer then i can wear it in a little colder weather. since i got it i pretty much wear it all the time now. one vote from me for the compressor
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mikebee
Mar 3, 2010, 7:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 190
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I've also got a MHW Compressor Jkt. Been pretty happy with it. Good fit, good hood etc. I don't consider it super warm. In really cold conditions (living in Australia, my idea of really cold will be different from yours), I find I need to wear a few good layers beneath it. It's definitely not as warm as my down jacket, but obviously, it's ability to deal with moisture makes it a better choice is some conditions.
The outer fabric could be a bit more durable for my liking too. It's pretty lightweight.
Overall, I'd give it a 7.5/10 if I was grading it.
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tedman
Mar 3, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 237
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I've got the mountain hardware as well. not sure if its the compressor, but it has a good hood and you can unzip a bit from the bottom when its fully zipped up to make belaying easier. The outer material is somewhat easily damaged, but nothing a little duct tape wont fix. Great to sleep in too if the bag needs a few more degrees.
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wallwombat
Mar 4, 2010, 9:23 AM
Post #6 of 14
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 727
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bill_in_tokyo wrote: Integral Designs Dolomitti:
Yeah, that's what I have. I'm really happy with it.
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zxcv
Mar 4, 2010, 2:24 PM
Post #7 of 14
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Registered: Feb 1, 2006
Posts: 96
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Fents,
As the comments concerning the MH Compressor indicate, a lightweight synthetic jacket (under 20 ounces) is not sufficient for many people as a belay jacket in cold weather. In the 20s or lower, the ID Dollomitti, DAS, etc. are much more suitable.
I have a 16 ounce (old version) Patagonia Micropuff that is very good into the 40s, but anything colder and I use a DAS.
Rab makes a 17 ounce Photon Hoody that is the closest to what you seem to be looking for.
The Montbell UL Thermawrap is about as warm as 200 weight fleece IMO... again, not suitable below 40 degree. The Flatiran is better for cold weather, but above your weight limit.
If weight is really a primary concern, look at down such as the Rab Neutrino Endurance or Montbell Alpine- and add a down balaclava (Nunatak, Down Works). The WM Flight is very nice, but the shell fabric is not very water or tear resistant- great for backpacking, but maybe not for climbing (depends on you I suppose). Also, for me it is good to about freezing.
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zeth01
Mar 4, 2010, 6:19 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Registered: Dec 14, 2006
Posts: 214
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the north face on-site is what i use.
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Schlieko
Mar 6, 2010, 3:23 AM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Jul 27, 2009
Posts: 2
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Patagonia Nanopuff. Thought it was a mistake when it arrived. Paper thin & I work up a sweat in 30 degree weather. Whole thing stuffs in the pullover's pocket.
And it can be a base layer, it's so small. Just cannot believe the warmth.
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ryanb
Mar 6, 2010, 3:59 AM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832
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Get one with a hood. The hooded montbell thermawrap (thicker insulation then the non hooded) would be a good choice if weight is your main concern.
The hooded compresor or patagonia micro puff (both prim aloft one) would be good choices that would offer more durability if you plan on actually climbing in it.
One of those or the nano puff + a down coat or das parka level coat is what my girlfriend and I both go with. The thin synthetic gets used most of the time and you wear both when its really cold in camp etc.
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Jip182
Mar 6, 2010, 4:09 AM
Post #11 of 14
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Registered: Feb 7, 2008
Posts: 24
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The Outdoor Research Fraction jacket. Great jacket. 16 ounces and reasonably priced. I believe the new model as a water resistant shell.
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Alpine07
Mar 6, 2010, 4:54 AM
Post #12 of 14
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Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
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I'd go with down if I were you. Thats what I use for winter climbing and backpacking, and its great. So light and packs so small that it doesn't really add anything to the pack weight, but is so nice for those long belays.
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Alpinisto
Mar 10, 2010, 1:25 AM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: May 11, 2007
Posts: 118
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Wild Things Belay Jacket (synthetic). It rocks.
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scottydo
Mar 11, 2010, 6:49 AM
Post #14 of 14
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Registered: Jun 3, 2007
Posts: 121
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Another good jacket for colder weather is the Mountain Hardwear Alcove. (This jacket is a lot warmer than the Compressor if that's what you want) My bro got one for Christmas and loves it.
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