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hospital
Mar 10, 2010, 11:27 PM
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How badly crowded does the Bugaboos get in August?
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builttospill
Mar 11, 2010, 4:44 AM
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Depends what you mean. We camped at Applebee Dome and it was crowded in mid-August....everyone camps in the same general area, and it gets pretty packed. It's still pleasant, but there's no solitude right IN camp (though you can walk away a bit and its pretty nice). I'm sure the hut is the same way.
As for routes, it also depends on the routes you're doing. We passed one group on the NE Ridge of Bugaboo, and there were probably 3 parties total that day I think? W. Ridge of Pigeon will have people but its easy to pass. You can find plenty of isolation if that's what you want, since it's mostly the same 5 routes that are crowded. There will be lots of people around the Crescent Spire area too, but that can be avoided if you don't like it. Going even further afield (Vowell Glacier, etc) would put you in an area that very few people make it to.
But August is prime time. It's crowded. It's crowded for a reason though, as my understanding is that is the best weather time (it was for us....7 straight days of no rain).
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slavetogravity
Mar 11, 2010, 5:19 AM
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I'll fill you in on a little known secret and seldom used practice of crowd avoidance in the Bugaboos.
Start climbing at the crack of noon.
I'm serious, if the weather bomb proof WTF are you doing getting up a 4am to climb some 7 pitch route for? Unless you're a no talent, multi pitch gumby, leaving the ground before 12 is for suckers. I've been up there many times and employed this method, and was rewarded with a good nights sleep before the climb, Zero climbers in my way, and a nice alpine glow to mark the hike back to camp.
Aaron.
(This post was edited by slavetogravity on Mar 11, 2010, 5:20 AM)
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uni_jim
Mar 11, 2010, 8:38 AM
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slavetogravity wrote: I'll fill you in on a little known secret and seldom used practice of crowd avoidance in the Bugaboos. Start climbing at the crack of noon. I'm serious, if the weather bomb proof WTF are you doing getting up a 4am to climb some 7 pitch route for? Unless you're a no talent, multi pitch gumby, leaving the ground before 12 is for suckers. I've been up there many times and employed this method, and was rewarded with a good nights sleep before the climb, Zero climbers in my way, and a nice alpine glow to mark the hike back to camp. Aaron.
I like it.
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xtrmecat
Mar 11, 2010, 6:45 PM
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Aaron, I really like your approach to the issue. I wouldn't have come up with it on my own though. Seen strategy like that used elsewhere with the oposite results, probably the caliber of climbers and access that makes the difference.
Take off to do, say the Durrance or Solor on DT at noon. You will stand in line, but be amused by the gumbys rapping in the dark when your turn finally comes. I guess it would be a trade off, huh?
Bob
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hafilax
Mar 11, 2010, 7:14 PM
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slavetogravity wrote: I'll fill you in on a little known secret and seldom used practice of crowd avoidance in the Bugaboos. Start climbing at the crack of noon. I'm serious, if the weather bomb proof WTF are you doing getting up a 4am to climb some 7 pitch route for? Unless you're a no talent, multi pitch gumby, leaving the ground before 12 is for suckers. I've been up there many times and employed this method, and was rewarded with a good nights sleep before the climb, Zero climbers in my way, and a nice alpine glow to mark the hike back to camp. Aaron.
This strategy works great in Squamish.
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builttospill
Mar 14, 2010, 3:51 AM
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tomtom wrote: builttospill wrote: But August is prime time. It's crowded. It's crowded for a reason though, as my understanding is that is the best weather time (it was for us....7 straight days of no rain). It rained on us every day for a week last August. The hut and the campground were pretty empty. 
Yeah, we felt pretty damn lucky.
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