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Kinobi
Feb 28, 2010, 7:26 AM
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Ciao, greetings from Italy. Again I post a similar question than I did a few months ago. In late April, which place would you reccomend? I have been a few times in Yosemite, but never in HP40. Ciao and thanks, E
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Bats
Feb 28, 2010, 1:53 PM
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More than a weekend, Yosemite, just a lot to do there from hiking, climbing, and back country camping. Need a lot of equipment from climbing to camping, unless you stay in one of the inns or hire a guide. HP 40 is nice for a 4 day or less stay and friendly people. Crashpad, chalk, and shoes, and the basic camping gear.
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johnwesely
Feb 28, 2010, 1:56 PM
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They are not really the same sort of thing. What kind of climbing do you want to do?
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Bats
Feb 28, 2010, 2:06 PM
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I was trying to figure that one out myself John. I mean Yosemite is great for Trad climbing and Big Wall, and some great bouldering. HP40 is only for bouldering. I guess that is something that they have figure out for themselves.
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Kinobi
Feb 28, 2010, 8:44 PM
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I posted on "Bouldering". I only want to do Bouldering. My main concern is temperatures. I have done the Nose and Astroman already... Ionly carry pads. Thanks E
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Bats
Feb 28, 2010, 9:38 PM
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For a week...I bet you could or attempt to do all the routes at HP40. You might be able to established some routes as well. Now its sandstone, so its like climbing sandpaper. I think the temperature will be about the same. Now April may be a bit more rainny in Alabama than California.
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unrooted
Mar 1, 2010, 3:15 AM
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HP40 is rad, and peculiar for the US, but if you are coming all the way from Italia then you should probably hit up somewhere that is unique for the US, like Hueco Tanks, or Joes Valley. Font is relatively nearby for you, and HP40 is considered the US's version of Font.
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Bats
Mar 1, 2010, 1:38 PM
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Hueco Tanks would have nicer weather. Good suggestion.
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i_h8_choss
Mar 1, 2010, 2:29 PM
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unrooted wrote: HP40 is rad, and peculiar for the US, but if you are coming all the way from Italia then you should probably hit up somewhere that is unique for the US, like Hueco Tanks, or Joes Valley. Font is relatively nearby for you, and HP40 is considered the US's version of Font. +1 for Joes Valley & add Bishop
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unrooted
Mar 1, 2010, 9:04 PM
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Bishop would be good weather, to bad the road to Yosemite would be closed then, unless they have as much snow there as in Oregon.
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treebierd
Mar 2, 2010, 1:37 AM
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I would cast my vote for HP40. It would only be an hours drive from Atlanta, and then an hour away from all sort of other great climbing. So if price is an issue, you would be spending far less in travel. If you werent satisfied with the climbing at HP for some reason you would have your choice of other spots to climb. Rocktown, Lily Boulders, Moss rock, and Boat rock. HP40 has well more than a weeks worth of problems! Unless you are particularly looking for v11+ problems, then HP has a great selection of climbing. I am at HP quite often and I have to say that it is a wonderful place to spend a week of climbing. People are always friendly and meeting Mike Schultz (the owner) is interesting to say the least. Just make sure you dont chop down any trees or drink your beer from glass bottles. If you decide to come to HP, PM me and I'll make it out there and I can show you around. One thing was brought up though. HP40 is indeed Americas version of Font, and it would be easier for you to get to france. I have not yet made the pilgrimage to Yosemite, so a vote for HP is most likely out of my ignorance. Hopefully someday ill get to see it and realize that it really is the mecca of the climbing world.
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Kinobi
Mar 15, 2010, 6:20 PM
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Ciao, thanks for all the help. We have been to Bleau (Font is the grading system, French uses Bleau, never Font) about 55 times in two combined... We are going to Camp 4. I have been there already so I know a bit, but except camping in Camp and not being broke in Yosemite Valley, do you have any accomodation around that you will suggest? Other issue: do you know if they rent pads somewhere there? Thanks, E
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kane_schutzman
Mar 15, 2010, 7:01 PM
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Personally would say 3 days is enough to get alot of the climbs at hp 40. Honestly, I think there are better places to go then HP 40 especially if your flying out here..
(This post was edited by kane_schutzman on Mar 15, 2010, 7:03 PM)
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keinangst
Mar 23, 2010, 6:37 PM
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Kinobi, One important thing to consider is this: If you decide to go to Horse Pens, there are several other major bouldering destinations within 2 hours' drive from there. Also, many airlines fly directly to Atlanta from Roma and Milano, which is a couple hours' shorter trip (and often cheaper) than the western US. I don't want to discourage you from visiting Yosemite, since it is one of my favorite places on earth...but since you have been there before, it might be nice to visit HP40 and the surrounding area. Look at a map of Atlanta, draw a line to Birmingham (100 miles west) and up to Chattanooga (100 miles north). This triangle contains 3-5 good destinations for bouldering on at least two different types of stone. Plus, you have the advantage of three cities and many towns to visit--while in Yosemite, you are basically stuck in the Valley, paying high prices for terrible food and few amenities. Good luck! (or, alla bocca del lupo, come si dice in italiano, vero?)
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quiteatingmysteak
Mar 23, 2010, 7:08 PM
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I do not think you can rent pads, but if you are going to be around for a while, just buy a new one and post a FOR SALE sign on the camp4 message board. If you buy it for 200 and sell it for 120, you basically rented it for eighty bucks, not too bad ;D I love throwing around the term "bouldering in Yosemite is like masturbating in a whore house" but to be honest, the number of routes and the potential in that are is LIFETIME. Besides, its very good rock, very featured granite, and will make your arms look like tree trunks!
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oklahoma
Mar 26, 2010, 4:57 AM
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If you're going to fly all the way to California and you are only bouldering, I would go climb at J-Tree. It should have better weather, a lifetime amount of bouldering, flat out classic problems, closer to an international airport. You are closer to bishop though at yosemite. it's only a 3 hour drive to the buttermilks from there where it's closer to a 5 hour drive from J-tree. It always makes me feel warm and toasty inside when I can hit two top spots in one road trip.
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i_h8_choss
Mar 26, 2010, 3:58 PM
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Its more like a handjob while wearing a condom in a whore house. You know....not gettin 'everything that's availabe'. But I like routes and boulders in the Valley. And a lot of routes require aid and pin scar placements, something yer average n00b will never climb. It's tough. But the Op'er already did the Nose and the Rostrum. right...? To me, it's pretty fun bouldering. Some are so big that it's like a pitch anyway. And some are small and tough on that lovely granite we all know and love. There are some good classic problems there. And I don't think you can rent pads anywhere. Stay at camp4 or the Pines. Or camp 4 free outside the park. Or spend that nice euro on a room at the lodge.
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k.l.k
Mar 26, 2010, 5:48 PM
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Kinobi-- The weather has been perfect in the Valley-- the boulders are in amazing shape right now and there's been a lot of new areas/problems developed over the last few years. I would also recommend simply buying a pad at the mountain shop and then selling it when you're ready to go home. If you have several people and a rental car, you could share a cabin or condo in Foresta, about 10 minutes away from C4: http://www.4yosemite.com/ If you won't rent a car, then your best alternative is probably one of the tent cabins at Camp Curry: You'll still need to bring/buy sleeping bags.
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Kinobi
Aug 29, 2010, 7:30 AM
Post #20 of 23
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Registered: Sep 16, 2009
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keinangst wrote: Kinobi, One important thing to consider is this: If you decide to go to Horse Pens, there are several other major bouldering destinations within 2 hours' drive from there. Also, many airlines fly directly to Atlanta from Roma and Milano, which is a couple hours' shorter trip (and often cheaper) than the western US. ... it might be nice to visit HP40 and the surrounding area. Look at a map of Atlanta, draw a line to Birmingham (100 miles west) and up to Chattanooga (100 miles north). This triangle contains 3-5 good destinations for bouldering on at least two different types of stone. Plus, you have the advantage of three cities and many towns to visit--while in Yosemite, you are basically stuck in the Valley, paying high prices for terrible food and few amenities. Good luck! (or, alla bocca del lupo, come si dice in italiano, vero?) Thanks, We say "in bocca al lupo". Can you give me a few more tips for HP40? I am trying to get the guidebook, but it's not available in Europe. I was thinking in Late October to HP40. Is it cold enough? For cold we mean cold grippy conditions. We have an issue then: our pads are in California, we need to get them there... Do you think we can sell them in HP40 once we get there? Airline companies proposed us a robbery to ship them back. And in HP40 we have no idea where we can stock them for next trip back. Thanks, E
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Bats
Aug 29, 2010, 6:07 PM
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I saw a video, not on youtube. The guy unzips his crash pad rolled the foam up, and placed in a cheap duffle bag from Walmart. I think he had a BD Mondo pad, but it work.
(This post was edited by Bats on Aug 30, 2010, 12:52 AM)
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ofblinkingthings
Aug 29, 2010, 11:55 PM
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hp40 is awesome. Go there if bouldering is your gig
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sp00ki
Aug 31, 2010, 9:39 PM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: I love throwing around the term "bouldering in Yosemite is like masturbating in a whore house" But what if the bouldering has really really awesome boobs?
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