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jonathan.gaillard
May 20, 2010, 9:56 PM
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Could someone with a wild country helium perform a little test for me since there is not a store around me within 350 miles that has one?
Both tests with rope and then with webbing..
loop one strand around the upper proper corner, and another around the spot right where the gate closes and then pull apart in opposite directions.. does anything hang up like on many many biners?
Same thing but around the bottom proper corner and then the same spot where the gate closes.
To me it looks like these are the only biners that might pass the above... so I was hoping someone might test real quick for me. Because even on keylock systems you have the part of the gate that has that corner that hangs up on nut wires...
Oh I tried searching but does anyone have any links to actual tests done on cross loading wiregates with a rope and seeing what the rope damage is?
Thanks a lot !!
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jonathan.gaillard
May 20, 2010, 11:31 PM
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Sure have seen a bunch of errors on the strength of these. I keep seeing minor strength of 7 and then 9 it seems to vary, were there different versions at one time?
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snowboarder801
May 21, 2010, 12:56 AM
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Ok so i did what i think you are talking about and made a video so here it is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0CW4SjhmKQ
Conclusion is that unlike the spirit and other carabiners, the helium has no spot where runners or rope can catch, potentially cross loading them.
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robdotcalm
May 21, 2010, 3:01 AM
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snowboarder801 wrote: Ok so i did what i think you are talking about and made a video so here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0CW4SjhmKQ Conclusion is that unlike the spirit and other carabiners, the helium has no spot where runners or rope can catch, potentially cross loading them.
I'm not sure how realistic this is but thanks for the video. It's nice to see some tests and not just opinion. It does show a certain design advantage for the Helium for this perhaps unusual occurrence.
r.c
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rightarmbad
May 21, 2010, 3:13 AM
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The early ones like mine were stronger and made by DMM I think.
The later ones are the 'sourced from a different country' ones and are not rated as high.
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clc
May 21, 2010, 4:42 AM
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With all the falls in climbing I have never heard of a biner breaking in this manner. I bet its quite rare. Use quick draws to avoid the situation.
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qwert
May 21, 2010, 8:00 AM
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rightarmbad wrote: The early ones like mine were stronger and made by DMM I think. The later ones are the 'sourced from a different country' ones and are not rated as high.
As far is i understand - and have been told by a DMM guy - they are still made by DMM.
but i too noticed that various strengths. Had a thread about that, and even mailed Wild Country, but they never answered.
qwert
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rightarmbad
May 21, 2010, 8:07 AM
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Can't remember off the top of my head, the info itself stuck in my mind.
If I remember or find it again I shall post it.
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cleethree
May 21, 2010, 4:46 PM
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qwert wrote: rightarmbad wrote: The early ones like mine were stronger and made by DMM I think. The later ones are the 'sourced from a different country' ones and are not rated as high. Do you have a source for that? As far is i understand - and have been told by a DMM guy - they are still made by DMM. but i too noticed that various strengths. Had a thread about that, and even mailed Wild Country, but they never answered. qwert
doesn't talk about different mgrs. but different stengths.
(This post was edited by cleethree on May 21, 2010, 4:47 PM)
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jonathan.gaillard
May 21, 2010, 5:01 PM
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snowboarder801 wrote: Ok so i did what i think you are talking about and made a video so here it is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0CW4SjhmKQ Conclusion is that unlike the spirit and other carabiners, the helium has no spot where runners or rope can catch, potentially cross loading them.
Your the best!! Thanks for throwing together a quick vid much better than words in this case...
Much obliged :)
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vegastradguy
Jun 1, 2010, 7:49 AM
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qwert wrote: rightarmbad wrote: The early ones like mine were stronger and made by DMM I think. The later ones are the 'sourced from a different country' ones and are not rated as high. Do you have a source for that? As far is i understand - and have been told by a DMM guy - they are still made by DMM. but i too noticed that various strengths. Had a thread about that, and even mailed Wild Country, but they never answered.
Dmm still makes the helium- the strengths were lowered mostly because the manufacturing is so complex. Its the most complex carabiner dmm makes.
If you find a helium with a 9 on it, its a couple years old, all the new ones are rated at 7kn.
Not sure where the idea came that these were manufactured elsewhere- to my knowledge, there aren't any forges making climbing gear besides maybe bd that could make a carabiner as complex as the helium.
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jonathan.gaillard
Jun 2, 2010, 5:47 PM
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Sure would be nice if these things were cross strength of 10kn and some grams heavier instead of so freakishly light. Then it really would be the ultimate carabiner.
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patmay81
Jun 2, 2010, 6:11 PM
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but if they were any heavier wouldn't they have to rename them?
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jonathan.gaillard
Jun 2, 2010, 6:24 PM
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Indeed, perhaps, "Not your old timer can't carry much carabiner", that sounds good to me :)
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vegastradguy
Jun 2, 2010, 10:40 PM
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jonathan.gaillard wrote: Sure would be nice if these things were cross strength of 10kn and some grams heavier instead of so freakishly light. Then it really would be the ultimate carabiner.
if you want the ultimate carabiner in terms of weight and strength, its called the Petzl Spirit.
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jonathan.gaillard
Jun 2, 2010, 10:59 PM
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It is strong, however I am looking for something strong that wont snag on the interior, since that tends to happen a lot to me for some reason...
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redlude97
Jun 2, 2010, 11:36 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: jonathan.gaillard wrote: Sure would be nice if these things were cross strength of 10kn and some grams heavier instead of so freakishly light. Then it really would be the ultimate carabiner. if you want the ultimate carabiner in terms of weight and strength, its called the Petzl Spirit.
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