Loooooots of people just thread there rope through the bolt hangers because they don't want to leave gear (especially sport routes), they are that cheap. Also what if you need to do quite a few raps in a row that you don't have enough gear for? Basically I was trying to solve the points I laid out...

Loooooots of people just thread there rope through the bolt hangers because they don't want to leave gear (especially sport routes), they are that cheap. Also what if you need to do quite a few raps in a row that you don't have enough gear for? Basically I was trying to solve the points I laid out...

Yes I agree its not smart no matter how you look at it, I was just saying the reasons people do it. Myself not included.

It happens in areas of sport climbs where there are many routes with no rap rings or chains where people might climb 20 routes in a day, they are not about to leave 40 biners or quicklinks. And even then you still have a poor american triangle.

My main desire to use the thing I laid out would be on multipitch traditional climbs with rap stations that just have hangers. Where one might need to rappel 6 or 7 stations.

What do you think about the topic of the thread? :P

What do you think about the topic of the thread? :P

Ok guys I have something for discussion :) I know for many the retreat and subsequent rappels down the pitches can be the most fearful part of climbing due to several things.

1. With a looped rope or two tied and loop through anchor, if the sawing action cuts that looped rope, down you go.
2. people that put ropes straight through bolt hangers (for routes with bolt stations)
3. the american triangle associated with 2.
4. leaving gear, possibly not having what you need farther down.
5. general redundancy.

So I think this system might address most of above, let me know what you guys think, in good tones please :)

Sorry no pictures. This is a variation of the texas rope trick.

This requires three cords, probably one of these options:
1. two lead ropes and a very thin tag line
2. lead line, haul line, tag line
3. lead line, thin rap line, tag line
which shouldnt be a problem since a 4mm tag line weighs almost nothing for the second to carry. And on any multipitch I would hope two ropes are being taken.

1. So you take two sewn (or tied for cheaper) slings of correct length and you take one of your rapable lines and put a figure eight in the end that goes through both slings.
2. Then put each sling through one bolt hanger.
3. Take the two sling bights from each bolt hanger and pull them so your looking at a single bight composed of the two slings.
4. Rig a single rope rappel line from that bight in 3. by tying figure eight into second rap line and threading the other end of that line through the sling bights and through that lines figure eight.
5. attach tag line to figure eight of second rap line.

Now double strand rappel off the two single lines hanging. Its redundant, and has a nice V from both bolts and uses webbing on the sharp hangers which spreads the pressure out for saftey. And since it is basically two single line rappels its full length and there shouldn't be any sawing action.

The anchor is pullable by first pulling the tag line, and then the first rap rope will pull the anchor. No metal to fall down on your head. and no leaving ANY gear.

Tell me what you guys think.

I imagine the biggest problem that will be brought up is speed, but despite me being wordy (and probably confusing, I apologise!!! :D) it is actually pretty fast :) Two figure eights to tie, thats it.

Wow I guess Ill just delete this?

Why do you guys come here, to just blow off some of your ass attitude that you couldn't get rid of at work?

Nice job...

Loooooots of people just thread there rope through the bolt hangers...

Also I have heard as many arguments to leaving quicklinks and to not leaving them.