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ktm835
Jun 15, 2010, 7:07 PM
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i was wondering how hard the climb really is. from some of the photos it looks somewhat easy, then in others it looks kind of vertical. i climb 5.8 to 5.9 in the gunks and was thinking of a trip to lake george and if this would be out of my league.
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welle
Jun 15, 2010, 7:28 PM
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I've only done 1 climb - Little Finger that is. It's not that hard, if you're not sure of your slab climbing skills, the climb has enough foot and hand holds in the crack. Try that first and then if you feel confident with your feet, go for other climbs... I also climb in the Gunks, Rogers Rock was my first slab climb.
Just remember to tell your belayer to pay attention to the rope length and let you know when it's only few feet left so you know to start looking for a belay station. Slabs deceivingly look lower - so you may end up climbing to the end of the rope. Downclimbing on slabs is not fun.
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bill413
Jun 15, 2010, 7:28 PM
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ktm835 wrote: i was wondering how hard the climb really is. from some of the photos it looks somewhat easy, then in others it looks kind of vertical. i climb 5.8 to 5.9 in the gunks and was thinking of a trip to lake george and if this would be out of my league.
With that level, you should definitely be able to do Little Fingers.
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adatesman
Jun 15, 2010, 8:04 PM
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ktm835
Jun 16, 2010, 1:41 AM
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so do the ratings kind of vary from place to place then
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 16, 2010, 2:22 AM
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Slab is hard to grade. that which scares the piss out of you on lead may be a super easy second. little finger is very easy and well protected but you must have a little bit of rout finding skills at the top. i did hear of a 5.11 sport climber freezeing up there. out of rope, no gear in reach aND NO clue. Needed a rescue
Much better climbs are The Matrix.8+? Screaming Meanie 9-? Slip Tease Skid row 9+
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ktm835
Jun 16, 2010, 2:16 PM
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is the climb vertical?
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welle
Jun 16, 2010, 2:23 PM
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ahaha, so true, I've seen 5.13 sport climbers who had just been sending shit on Waimea freeze on Clippidy-Do-Dah at Rumney. And it's only like 5.3!
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 16, 2010, 4:36 PM
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That is hard to believe. clippity do da is super grippy and way over bolted. Soled it or maby wimpy gillman? and though it was fun but super easy.
Most of rojers rock is like a 12/12 pitch roof.
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adatesman
Jun 16, 2010, 6:27 PM
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 16, 2010, 8:20 PM
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A good alternet start to LF is the bolted job 20ft right of LF Modern bolts I always thought it was LF direct but have been told it was Bits and pieces? makes no sense as 2 slab routs in that space would be squueze job galore..
20ft right of LF a micro stopper gets you off the ground and then 4 bolts to anchors 55m Merge left into littlefinger for P2. The direct P2 is bad doubble tib fib material. Direct P3 is super good and well protected if you have good route finding skilz.
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ktm835
Jun 17, 2010, 2:12 AM
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i really appreciate all the info. this should be helpful in my trip up there
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sbaclimber
Jun 18, 2010, 8:05 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: A good alternet start to LF is the bolted job 20ft right of LF Modern bolts I always thought it was LF direct but have been told it was Bits and pieces? makes no sense as 2 slab routs in that space would be squueze job galore.. 20ft right of LF a micro stopper gets you off the ground and then 4 bolts to anchors 55m Merge left into littlefinger for P2. The direct P2 is bad doubble tib fib material. Direct P3 is super good and well protected if you have good route finding skilz.
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