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darien.liew
Jun 21, 2010, 1:50 PM
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Hi again, belay devices now come i many types, since I am new I was recommended by the shop assistant the PETZL GriGri belay device and the PETZL Reverso 3. Anyone is welcome to share personal opinions and give personal recommendations.
Thank You.
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maldaly
Jun 21, 2010, 2:07 PM
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If you do a quick forum search on this exact topic you will find many, many threads on just this topic. There is a lot of great information, advice and instruction that has been loaded into these forums and you would do well to learn how to search them for it.
Regards,
Mal
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cfnubbler
Jun 21, 2010, 2:57 PM
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darien.liew wrote: Hi again, belay devices now come i many types, since I am new I was recommended by the shop assistant the PETZL GriGri belay device and the PETZL Reverso 3. Anyone is welcome to share personal opinions and give personal recommendations. Thank You.
Both the GriGri and the Reverso are specialized tools, and probably not the best choice for a first device.
I recommend a standard tube-style device to get started. They're inexpensive, simple and effective.
Once you've gotten some experience under your belt, you might consider a GriGri or Cinch for single pitch cragging, or a plaquette style device (like the Reverso or similar products from other manufacturers) for multipitch routes.
(This post was edited by cfnubbler on Jun 21, 2010, 2:58 PM)
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darien.liew
Jun 21, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Thank You for your advices, I will keep them in mind and most likely to get the standard tube style belay device.
Thank You.
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patmay81
Jun 21, 2010, 3:58 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: darien.liew wrote: Hi again, belay devices now come i many types, since I am new I was recommended by the shop assistant the PETZL GriGri belay device and the PETZL Reverso 3. Anyone is welcome to share personal opinions and give personal recommendations. Thank You. Both the GriGri and the Reverso are specialized tools, and probably not the best choice for a first device. I recommend a standard tube-style device to get started. They're inexpensive, simple and effective. Once you've gotten some experience under your belt, you might consider a GriGri or Cinch for single pitch cragging, or a plaquette style device (like the Reverso or similar products from other manufacturers) for multipitch routes.
It is true that you want to start with a slot device, but if your partner is as big or bigger than you a mechanical assist for lead belay is very usefull. I use an atc guide for single pitch sport (as well as multi pitch obviously). It offers a better catch on thinner ropes. Thats my $0.02.
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patto
Jun 21, 2010, 4:16 PM
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cfnubbler wrote: Both the GriGri and the Reverso are specialized tools, and probably not the best choice for a first device.
How the hell is a Reverso a specialised tool!? It is a standard tube-style device. The plaquette functions shouldn't be explored till later but that is no reason to not pay the extra $10 and buy right the first time.
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cfnubbler
Jun 21, 2010, 4:21 PM
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patto wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Both the GriGri and the Reverso are specialized tools, and probably not the best choice for a first device. How the hell is a Reverso a specialised tool!? It is a standard tube-style device. The plaquette functions shouldn't be explored till later...
Congratulations...you answered your own question.
As for whether or not the OP should spend the extra money for features s/he might or might not ever use, we'll have to agree to disagree on that one.
Cheers,
Nubbler
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 4:46 PM
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patto wrote: cfnubbler wrote: Both the GriGri and the Reverso are specialized tools, and probably not the best choice for a first device. How the hell is a Reverso a specialised tool!? It is a standard tube-style device. The plaquette functions shouldn't be explored till later but that is no reason to not pay the extra $10 and buy right the first time.
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patto
Jun 21, 2010, 4:54 PM
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redlude97 wrote: I am sure you are well aware that the majority of the climbing community will never get into lead belaying multipitch routes, so telling a beginner they should buy a reverso3 will most likely just continue to perpetuate its goober status
Actually it isn't so obvious to me that people posting on rockclimbing.com don't climb multipitch or lead belay.
My first lead belay was on a multipitch and my second lead climb was also on trad multipitch. Both of these I did well before posting on rockclimbing.com So no. Im not well aware.
Furthermore I didn't realise that the reverso3 was in anyway designed for lead belaying multipitch. It works very well single pitch and very well on belaying seconds.
I bought harness, belay, 2 carbiners and a sling on my second trip out to the crag. I am to this day glad I bought the recently released reverso. My advice to the original poster is certainly influenced by this. Your advice seems to be disparaging of a beginner looking to get into this sport.
(This post was edited by patto on Jun 21, 2010, 5:01 PM)
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:02 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I am sure you are well aware that the majority of the climbing community will never get into lead belaying multipitch routes, so telling a beginner they should buy a reverso3 will most likely just continue to perpetuate its goober status Actually it isn't so obvious to me that people posting on rockclimbing.com don't climb multipitch or lead belay. My first lead belay was on a multipitch and my second lead climb was also on trad multipitch. Both of these I did well before posting on rockclimbing.com So no. Im not well aware. Furthermore I didn't realise that the reverso3 was in anyway designed for lead belaying multipitch. It works very well single pitch and very well on belaying seconds. I bought harness, belay, 2 carbiners and a sling on my second trip out to the crag. I am to this day glad I bought the recently released reverso. My advice to the original poster is certainly influenced by this. Your advice seems to be disparaging of a beginner looking to get into this sport.
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:08 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I am sure you are well aware that the majority of the climbing community will never get into lead belaying multipitch routes, so telling a beginner they should buy a reverso3 will most likely just continue to perpetuate its goober status
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patto
Jun 21, 2010, 5:09 PM
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redlude97 wrote: You should have to lead a pitch to belay up a second wouldn't you
My point displayed why you statement was incorrect. An almost witty remark doesn't change that.
redlude97 wrote: A beginner getting into the sport can easily get away with a $15 ATC, heck, I would even recommend renting or borrowing gear for a while until you really know you are into the sport.
redlude97 wrote: Telling them they should buy a Reverso3 is doing nothing but padding Petzls pockets. A climber will know when they need a plaquette device, and will not need to ask if they should buy a grigri or reverso.
(This post was edited by patto on Jun 21, 2010, 5:14 PM)
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:12 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: You should have to lead a pitch to belay up a second wouldn't you My point displayed why you statement was incorrect. An almost witty remark doesn't change that.
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patto
Jun 21, 2010, 5:16 PM
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redlude97 wrote: I'm not following, since when is a reverso required for lead belaying, or even bringing up a second?
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:25 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I'm not following, since when is a reverso required for lead belaying, or even bringing up a second? I never said it was, learn to read. It is however very good at both those tasks.
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cleethree
Jun 21, 2010, 5:35 PM
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I would definitely start with a tube style device. Using one properly will teach you the basic belay technique. Going with a basic tube style device will initially save you cash, but if you don't mind spending the extra cash - get the reverso or ATC guide. You may or may not use the features it offers, but you won't have to buy another device later if you need the functionality then.
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patto
Jun 21, 2010, 5:36 PM
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redlude97 wrote: patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I'm not following, since when is a reverso required for lead belaying, or even bringing up a second? I never said it was, learn to read. It is however very good at both those tasks. Actually it's not, it sucks on fat ropes, I can barely squeeze some of the gym ropes through the device, and ATC works much better.
But I'm not continuing this. I have made my recomendation. Of course other devices might be better for fatter ropes, or thinner ropes or whatever. That was never the point.
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patmay81
Jun 21, 2010, 5:39 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I am sure you are well aware that the majority of the climbing community will never get into lead belaying multipitch routes, so telling a beginner they should buy a reverso3 will most likely just continue to perpetuate its goober status Actually it isn't so obvious to me that people posting on rockclimbing.com don't climb multipitch or lead belay. My first lead belay was on a multipitch and my second lead climb was also on trad multipitch. Both of these I did well before posting on rockclimbing.com So no. Im not well aware. Furthermore I didn't realise that the reverso3 was in anyway designed for lead belaying multipitch. It works very well single pitch and very well on belaying seconds. I bought harness, belay, 2 carbiners and a sling on my second trip out to the crag. I am to this day glad I bought the recently released reverso. My advice to the original poster is certainly influenced by this. Your advice seems to be disparaging of a beginner looking to get into this sport.
I find it hard to believe that a majority of climbers will fit into the gym rat or bouldering category. Every climber I know (even those who strictly consider themselves bouldererers) has and will tie into the sharp end without hesitation.
You may climb exclusively at a gym, but that is not the norm (in my experience).
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:45 PM
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patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I'm not following, since when is a reverso required for lead belaying, or even bringing up a second? I never said it was, learn to read. It is however very good at both those tasks. Actually it's not, it sucks on fat ropes, I can barely squeeze some of the gym ropes through the device, and ATC works much better. You lead belay and bring up seconds with gym ropes? But I'm not continuing this. I have made my recomendation. Of course other devices might be better for fatter ropes, or thinner ropes or whatever. That was never the point.
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psprings
Jun 21, 2010, 5:48 PM
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I like the Omega Pacific SBGII. Great for the whole spectrum of rope diameters, from fat gym ropes to skinny twins as well. Personally, I think that Autoblocking is over-rated, unless you climb multipitch with a team of 3. Otherwise, I use a Munter Hitch when belaying from above; works like a charm.
edit: some reviews on it can be found here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ders/SBG_II_446.html
(This post was edited by psprings on Jun 21, 2010, 5:52 PM)
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redlude97
Jun 21, 2010, 5:52 PM
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patmay81 wrote: patto wrote: redlude97 wrote: I am sure you are well aware that the majority of the climbing community will never get into lead belaying multipitch routes, so telling a beginner they should buy a reverso3 will most likely just continue to perpetuate its goober status Actually it isn't so obvious to me that people posting on rockclimbing.com don't climb multipitch or lead belay. My first lead belay was on a multipitch and my second lead climb was also on trad multipitch. Both of these I did well before posting on rockclimbing.com So no. Im not well aware. Furthermore I didn't realise that the reverso3 was in anyway designed for lead belaying multipitch. It works very well single pitch and very well on belaying seconds. I bought harness, belay, 2 carbiners and a sling on my second trip out to the crag. I am to this day glad I bought the recently released reverso. My advice to the original poster is certainly influenced by this. Your advice seems to be disparaging of a beginner looking to get into this sport.All your 'spray' aside, i was thinking the same thing. I find it hard to believe that a majority of climbers will fit into the gym rat or bouldering category. Every climber I know (even those who strictly consider themselves bouldererers) has and will tie into the sharp end without hesitation. You may climb exclusively at a gym, but that is not the norm (in my experience).
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iron106
Jun 21, 2010, 6:05 PM
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darien.liew wrote: Hi again, belay devices now come i many types, since I am new I was recommended by the shop assistant the PETZL GriGri belay device and the PETZL Reverso 3. Anyone is welcome to share personal opinions and give personal recommendations. Thank You.
First thing I would buy whatever device you are going to use from somewhere else.
I'd never recommend a Gri Gri as a first device unless you have used them a lot already.
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Khoi
Jun 21, 2010, 6:07 PM
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psprings wrote: I like the Omega Pacific SBGII. Great for the whole spectrum of rope diameters, from fat gym ropes to skinny twins as well. Personally, I think that Autoblocking is over-rated, unless you climb multipitch with a team of 3. Otherwise, I use a Munter Hitch when belaying from above; works like a charm. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/gear/products/8/908-large_446L.jpg[/image] edit: some reviews on it can be found here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ders/SBG_II_446.html
You didn't mention the best thing about the SBGII: it doesn't jam! Because it uses a rigid stem instead of a keeper wire, having to deal with a jam while belaying is not a problem.
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boymeetsrock
Jun 21, 2010, 6:24 PM
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Wow, some of the responses in this thread a re a bit scary.
Darien, by for the best advise in this thread came in the first response from maldaly. Do a search and read up.
Second best advise IMO is a basic tube style belay devise. From this and your other posts it seams you are VERY new to the sport. I imagine most of your belaying will be top rope. ...regardless, a simple tube style devise is more than sufficient and will help develop proper belay technique. When you gain more experience and a broader understanding of belay technique you will begin to understand specialty devices like the gri gri or reverso and be able to form your own opinions.
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extreme_actuary
Jun 21, 2010, 6:51 PM
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First of all, I am not a big fan of mechanical assist belay devices such as the GriGri or Cinch for beginners. Search the accident/injury forums and decide for yourself whether they are actually safer than tube style devices.
I believe tube style devices, such as an ATC, perform much better for general cragging. They are lighter, easier to rappel with, give you more control over the belay, and can provide a more dynamic belay which can lower the force on anchors and protection.
In defense of GriGri's and Cinches, they are invaluable on aid routes, big walls etc., but that seems to be further down the line for you.
When it comes to buying gear that you can grow into, it isn't quite like buying shoes for kids. You don't always know which direction you will grow. For example, I almost excusively use double ropes instead of single ropes, so a GriGri has very little use for me. I wouldn't have known that when I was buying my first belay device.
Also, it would probably be a few years before you start to use the features that separate the Reverso 3 from an ATC. By then, Petzl will have the Super-Reverso 6 with advanced anti-gravity functions out. You will be looking at your old Reverso and wishing it had anti-gravity functions.
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