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glovedclimber413
Jul 13, 2010, 4:44 PM
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Friday im leaving on a trip with my friend to visit his family who live in Los Gatos, CA which is near San Francisco...next week we are camping in Yosemite and i also hired a guide for one of the days
I was just wondering if there is a good climbing gym or bouldering near Los Gatos that i could maybe go there and climb this weekend before i go to Yosemite
I wont have my rope or draws nor my crashpad because we are flying so inside is most probable though i have no problem bouldering outside without a pad because I did it all the time before i had my pad and my friend always spots me
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caughtinside
Jul 13, 2010, 4:50 PM
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You can go to Castle Rock state park which is like 15 minutes away. Sandstone sloper bouldering in the woods in the santa cruz mountains. Pretty fun.
You should be fine with no pad. Most landings are flat, and the area is popular so you can probably jump in with other people.
There's also a gym in nearby sunnyvale.
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dugl33
Jul 13, 2010, 4:51 PM
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glovedclimber413 wrote: Friday im leaving on a trip with my friend to visit his family who live in Los Gatos, CA which is near San Francisco...next week we are camping in Yosemite and i also hired a guide for one of the days I was just wondering if there is a good climbing gym or bouldering near Los Gatos that i could maybe go there and climb this weekend before i go to Yosemite I wont have my rope or draws nor my crashpad because we are flying so inside is most probable though i have no problem bouldering outside without a pad because I did it all the time before i had my pad and my friend always spots me
Castle Rock State Park has bouldering and limited leading and top-roping on Font style sandstone.
Also, you are not far from a few gyms -- twisters, planet granite...
http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538
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ian1386
Jul 14, 2010, 12:47 AM
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If you go to Castle Rock, make sure to bring some bug spray. It can get pretty rough out there.
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glovedclimber413
Jul 14, 2010, 2:35 AM
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thanks guys for the help...i am going to have to see what is planned for the weekend before i go but going for a "hike" around Castle Rock seems pretty cool and if the weather is bad i might hit up one of those gyms
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dugl33
Jul 14, 2010, 3:27 AM
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glovedclimber413 wrote: thanks guys for the help...i am going to have to see what is planned for the weekend before i go but going for a "hike" around Castle Rock seems pretty cool and if the weather is bad i might hit up one of those gyms
A bit of a heat wave is passing through California this week so you might want to head over the hill to the beach. Hopefully next week will cool down some. Have a good trip.
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jonwlkerblak
Jul 15, 2010, 3:26 PM
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Do not go climbing in Castle rock if it has rained in the previous few days, you run the risk of ruining the rock. Also, up the road about 1/5 of a mile from the castle parking lot, and on the other side of the street. Is the trailhead for indian rock, theres a bunch of great bouldering, TR and Lead there that should keep you busy for about another day. (you can call pacific edge gym for the rain heads up, they are uber nice ab it).
And shit, if you're in los gatos (best climbing in bay area) i wouldnt bother leaving uness you're headed to Yosemite. Bc it'd be an hour+ of your time driving for worse shit.
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glovedclimber413
Jul 15, 2010, 3:43 PM
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ya if the rock is sandstone i know you dont want to climb on it when it is wet cause thats all there is in ohio...i had no idea that my vacation outside of yosemite would have such good climbing and i can really only boulder since im not bringing my other gear to sport climb
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banjolele
Jul 15, 2010, 9:15 PM
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glovedclimber413
Jul 16, 2010, 4:13 AM
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wait so you are saying that i shouldnt sport climb there? i thought the place would be great for sport?
o and i am bringing my gear so i can sport climb now
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banjolele
Jul 16, 2010, 7:43 AM
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glovedclimber413
Jul 16, 2010, 5:08 PM
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ok thank you VERY MUCH...at most i will boulder in Castle Rock...so this pinnacle place is the place to go if i want to sport climb?
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dugl33
Jul 16, 2010, 5:50 PM
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glovedclimber413 wrote: ok thank you VERY MUCH...at most i will boulder in Castle Rock...so this pinnacle place is the place to go if i want to sport climb?
Pinnacles has some awesome routes on volcanic breccia -- picture dense mud seeded liberally with rocks sticking out. Its the closest thing to gym climbing on real rock I've ever experienced.
This said, its important to be careful with route selection. Some of the routes are quite serious leads. Run outs on loose rock with ancient bolts, or requiring supplemental gear. If you go I recommend hitting the east side. It is more dense with climbs that could be considered sport climbs. Generally the rock quality on the east side is good and popular routes have good bolts.
Note that not all climbs are lower offs. Discovery wall is typically a walk off (easy trail). A Pinns newbie would enjoy the Tourist Trap, some of the Discovery wall routes, Monolith, Upper Crest. A few of the Discovery wall routes require gear so ask around at the base or spot the bolt line carefully.
Biggest challenge right now will be the heat. Pinns is a hot summer area, and this is a hot week in Cali. What's worked for me in the past is to show up in the afternoon. Probably noon at the earliest, maybe more like 1:30. Shade hits Discovery wall in the afternoon making it bearable. Ditto for monolith. Climb until dark and walk out by headlamp. People who try to beat the heat going early are well cooked by noon, and bailing just when its getting relatively nice.
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Edit: link to a few pics for an idea: http://www.mudncrud.com/...=10264&g2_page=1
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Jul 16, 2010, 5:57 PM)
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