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dbrayack
Dec 17, 2002, 2:41 PM
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Uh V3 is 11+ that last time I checked....but bouldering and climbing are so different. A 5.11+ face move = = V3, but the crux on Lactic Acid Bath (12d) is V3 if you hang at the bolt before and rest, and try it.
If you think V3 is 5.10, dude....you need to come bouldering at Cooper's Rocks
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flamingfeet17
Dec 17, 2002, 4:06 PM
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I think it takes different people to boulder and to climb. They're saying a V2-V3 is 5.10b dude that's a little bit too steep unless I'm just not as good at bouldering. I would say a V1 would equal maybe 5.9+ but not more.
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vaness
Dec 17, 2002, 4:48 PM
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i think that you shoud just try to think of them as dfferent scales. it starts at v0 and goes up to v15. same way you learned the YDS scale. i try not to compare the two.
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flamingfeet17
Dec 18, 2002, 2:35 AM
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VERY VERY VERY VERY GOOD IDEA!!!!!!!!
Why couldn't we all not think of this?
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surforclimb
Dec 31, 2002, 12:37 PM
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If you only boulder everone knows you get pumped out when on rope. if you throw in some cardio during the week. yes the treadmill or stair master, for about 1/2 hours 2 or 3 times your stamina on rope will go up with out having to get on a rope all the time. also you should get on a rope once a week and practice route finding. i hate being on rope. i feel more comfortable climbing without a rope. even routes. the rope just gets in the way. an i climb V5/6 and climb 12a. if you get on a rope for one or two climbs a week, your stamiina should not fall to far.
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aussierookie
Jan 31, 2003, 4:24 AM
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G'day! I've been climbing and bouldering at various indoor gyms around my area for about a year and a half. I simply think the bouldering and climbing grading systems cannot be compared. Full Stop. I climb (pyramid training) once a week, boulder twice a week, and also climb harder route once a week. I can climb consistently 22 (5.11a) at my local gym, and boulder v4. However, I have climbed 28+ at other gyms and bouldered V7. The variations in grades between different places puzzles me. In attempt to solve this problem, I'm going to do a ropes course and start climbing outdoors, now that I have some confidence in my abilty
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camhead
Jan 31, 2003, 4:57 AM
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my strength is definitely endurance, and I boulder WAY below the "equivalent" sport rating that I can redpoint.
I try not to think about it.
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coclimber26
Feb 1, 2003, 1:42 AM
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If a certain bouldering route converts to a 5.11 then try doing the problem 5 times withought taking a rest...then it might equal a 5.11 sport climb.
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snowrocker
Jul 1, 2003, 4:33 PM
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good post
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coclimber26
Jul 7, 2003, 7:56 AM
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A V3 = 5.11d.
Usually a climbers best redpoint is about 3-4 letter grades below that.
Redpoint = 5.11a
and best onsight 3 grades below that.
Onsight = 5.10b
and should be able to climb for an hour or so at 5.9 or below...
These are just number taken out of a book I read. Take em for what they are worth, just numbers.
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teddy
Jul 7, 2003, 8:55 AM
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ok then... u guys all know a lot more than me... but why use 8a.na or wateva it was, when theres one on this page?
B V0 5.10d 6a
B V1 5.11a 6b
B V2 5.11bc 6b+
B V3 5.11d 6c
B V4 5.12a 6c+
B V5 5.12bc 7a
B V6 5.12d 7a+
B V7 5.13a 7b
B V8 5.13bc 7b+
B V9 5.13d 7c
B V10 5.14a 7c+
B V11 5.14b 8a
B V12 5.14c 8a+
B V13 5.14d 8b
B V14 5.15a 8b+
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nobbers
Jul 27, 2003, 10:10 AM
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sorry to resurect this old thread.
i just wanted to add that it's not always that you should be able to boulder around 3 grades higher, though a lot of people can.
i can boulder about V7 pushing 8's, and i struggle with 12a on lead. but i know a guy that just lead his first 13a outside, and has some SERIOUS problems getting up a lot of V4's, and has never hit anything higher.
it is REALLY hard to compare bouldering (crux climbing) to sport, or lead, or trad. how hard would a V6 be if you had to hang on it every 10 feet with one hand to put a piece of pro in?
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jipstyle
Jul 27, 2003, 7:19 PM
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In reply to: if you think v3 if 5.10... go to the tanks... you will soon find out that v0- is 5.10 there...
Actually, fiend was in hueco just a couple of months ago ... :D
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thomasribiere
Jul 27, 2003, 8:47 PM
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:?: and another question what does the letter V mean??? Or is it the roman number V=5?
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jpb
Jul 28, 2003, 12:21 AM
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I am French Canadian , atheist , do not want guns in the hands of everyone and , Thomas , the V rating means "Verm" , for Vermin , the nickname of John Sherman . He changed the H ( Hueco ) grade to his own .
And that does not make a lot of sense , believe me ... the frades are off from one side of the US to the other . Maybe one day it will be standardized . See the book "Sherman exposed " by John Sherman , page 64 .
Stick to your Bleau grades !
Good climbing !
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dlintz
Jul 28, 2003, 1:52 AM
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"Sherman Exposed" is the perfect gift for anyone you know that might be taking grades a little too seriously. Hopefully the irony won't be lost.
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thomasribiere
Jul 28, 2003, 6:14 PM
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thanks! I like this Vermin...! Add some taste to bouldering! :lol:
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tenn_dawg
Aug 30, 2003, 3:48 AM
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Moved to Bouldering...
Travis
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johnfromohio
Sep 20, 2003, 12:50 AM
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who thoughts grades could be this confusing :roll:
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boulderin
Dec 23, 2003, 12:09 AM
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I prefer to boulder over anything else, I can do boulder problems all the way up to V8...But I couldn't climb a 5.12 to save my life. All I really know is that when I go climbing, I go to have fun. I dont care if its a V0, 5.4, or even a V10...When you start worrying about who you can outclimb, or who you are better than, than you are defeating the whole purpose...TO HAVE FUN! Personally I prefer to climb with people that are much better than me...that way I can actually learn something instead of trying to show off all the time... :lol:
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kalcario
Dec 23, 2003, 12:52 AM
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Sport climbing and bouldering only have one thing in common, individual move difficulty. Therefore you can easily say that *an individual move* on a route is v3 or whatever, but after that, the ability to compare pretty much ends, you can't really say that a route, the whole route, is, for instance, v3. The moves on a 12d-13a simply can't be v6 or 7, as many on this thread contend, because if I can't do v6-7 fresh on the ground, and I can't, it ain't gonna happen 50' up, yet I usually have pretty good success (with some toil) on routes of that grade. Really I think boulderers tend to overestimate the individual move difficulty of routes due to the endurance factor and just general lack of familiarity with roped climbing; your typical 12c usually has a v3 crux. To Bolt or Not To Be, 14a at Smith Rock, is merely sustained v3, I've been told by somebody I know who's done it and is also a v11 boulderer.
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curt
Dec 23, 2003, 1:19 AM
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Joe,
In reply to: The moves on a 12d-13a simply can't be v6 or 7, as many on this thread contend, because if I can't do v6-7 fresh on the ground, and I can't, it ain't gonna happen 50' up, yet I usually have pretty good success (with some toil) on routes of that grade.
That's one of the problems with trying to convert one difficulty scale to another. But, if you compare shorter, more bouldery routes, the comparison is closer and makes more sense.
Curt
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kalcario
Dec 23, 2003, 2:23 AM
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*On the other hand a 5.12d route that is 150 feet long--with no rests (endurance type route) may indeed have no single move harder than V3 or so.*
Curt. There's no such thing as a 150' 12d with no rests. Somewhere up there, there's gonna be a shakeout. A 150' 12d with no rests would be 5.14 or something. This is like when you were spraying about Bachar soloing 2000' of 5.11 in one day, it makes me think you don't really understand how routes are rated...
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curt
Dec 23, 2003, 2:52 AM
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In reply to: *On the other hand a 5.12d route that is 150 feet long--with no rests (endurance type route) may indeed have no single move harder than V3 or so.* Curt. There's no such thing as a 150' 12d with no rests. Somewhere up there, there's gonna be a shakeout. A 150' 12d with no rests would be 5.14 or something. This is like when you were spraying about Bachar soloing 2000' of 5.11 in one day, it makes me think you don't really understand how routes are rated...
OK, Guilty as charged. I don't know how panty waist sport-wanker routes are rated. That's because I am a real rock climber, asshole. Hahaha.
Curt
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