|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 2:16 PM
Post #1 of 18
(19296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
Hullo,
I've a pair of Miuras and have worn a hole through the rand in the toe. This isn't typical wear and is somewhat uniquely associated with the wall of a certain gym where I used to climb... So, the outsole is OK.
Yet a deepening, pea-sized hole has worn through the rubber. It worsens each time I climb, so I need to fix it soon, before the shoe's wasted.
Has anyone (experientally sound) ideas of what commercially available glue would adhere well to a rand?
I don't use the shoes for thin cracks, so I don't care much if this area is sticky. Nor does it need to be radically durable.
Any good advice is totally appreciated!
(This post was edited by brachialis on Aug 15, 2010, 2:17 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
peg_leg1
Aug 15, 2010, 3:08 PM
Post #2 of 18
(19278 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 21
|
Just to put a patch over it will only be a temporary fix. Barge cement is good (let dry completely) or super glue is good too. If you use a sander, try to use one where you can turn the speed down. The high speed will cause heat which will heat the glue and cause it to not stick. You can also use a sharp razor blade and "slice" away the excess.
The best way to fix it is to remove the part (rather it be rand or sole) and replace it,but this is time consuming and moe difficult.
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 3:14 PM
Post #3 of 18
(19274 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
I know it will be only a temporary fix, but shoes aren't permanent.... Nor are rubber toe caps from a cobbler.
Regardless, Barge cement sound perfect for this application, so thanks a lot!
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 15, 2010, 3:21 PM
Post #4 of 18
(19269 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
It sounds like your shoes are past the point where they can be reasonably fixed, but the rubber cement thing will work in a pinch till you can get new ones.
|
|
|
|
|
peg_leg1
Aug 15, 2010, 3:29 PM
Post #5 of 18
(19264 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 21
|
Let barge dry good. slightly heat with heat gun or blowdryer first.
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 4:20 PM
Post #6 of 18
(19249 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
johnwesely wrote: It sounds like your shoes are past the point where they can be reasonably fixed, but the rubber cement thing will work in a pinch till you can get new ones.
'fixed' in a cosmetic sense?
For as long as I've been serious about climbing I've never evaluated a rock shoe in terms of 'fixed' or 'broken' except on the basis of how the shoe performs for the intended purposes. If with occasional application of shoe cement the shoe performs well until its other components wear out, then by my standards it's right fixed.
I climbed in the shoe just fine for a month after patching the hole with plastic epoxy (hardly appropriate for that application, adhered very poorly to the rubber and created a hard, slippy surface). I can't imagine a cement intended for rubber and leather failing to perform significantly better than this.
|
|
|
|
|
grantjk
Aug 15, 2010, 4:34 PM
Post #7 of 18
(19245 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 76
|
I'd use Shoo Goo (available at hardware stores) or neoprene patch (available at dive shops). Barge cement will work well to stick a patch on, but I don't think a patch will stay on in that spot, and the other two will fill the area and add material.
I think any repair is going to be temporary; to give it the best chance of working, rough the area up with sandpaper and clean with a solvent before applying whatever you decide to use.
Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 15, 2010, 5:03 PM
Post #8 of 18
(19199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
brachialis wrote: johnwesely wrote: It sounds like your shoes are past the point where they can be reasonably fixed, but the rubber cement thing will work in a pinch till you can get new ones. 'fixed' in a cosmetic sense? For as long as I've been serious about climbing I've never evaluated a rock shoe in terms of 'fixed' or 'broken' except on the basis of how the shoe performs for the intended purposes. If with occasional application of shoe cement the shoe performs well until its other components wear out, then by my standards it's right fixed. I climbed in the shoe just fine for a month after patching the hole with plastic epoxy (hardly appropriate for that application, adhered very poorly to the rubber and created a hard, slippy surface). I can't imagine a cement intended for rubber and leather failing to perform significantly better than this.
If I understand you correctly, you have a hole all of the way through your toe. If that is the case, then your shoes are probably past the point where they can be can be successfully resoled.
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 5:05 PM
Post #9 of 18
(19197 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
grantjk wrote: I'd use Shoo Goo (available at hardware stores) or neoprene patch (available at dive shops). Barge cement will work well to stick a patch on, but I don't think a patch will stay on in that spot, and the other two will fill the area and add material.
Sweet, thanks a lot for mentioning Shoe Goo.
Basically, what I seek to do is create a surface over the hole in the rand that would remain in place and protect the leather/ fabric beneath it. So, I want the patch more or less to dub as the rand did before. This is exactly what 'toe caps' do if you send you shoe off to a rock shoe cobbler. Except they use rubber, of course.
And Shoe Goo may be perfect for this. I read on the REI description 'This powerful glue bonds to rubber, fabric, canvas, leather, vinyl and plastic.' So it bonds. AND 'Dries to a flexible, rubber-like consistency' So presumably it won't have the consistency of hard plastic, like epoxy ;)
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 5:11 PM
Post #10 of 18
(19193 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
johnwesely wrote: If I understand you correctly, you have a hole all of the way through your toe. If that is the case, then your shoes are probably past the point where they can be can be successfully resoled.
Ah, what you wrote makes sense now. But no, it only wore through the rand: the rubber, not the toe itself.
The hole is deepening in that it's starting to wear into the leather. Meaning, fix the shoe now, or else further climbing will ruin it.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 15, 2010, 6:21 PM
Post #12 of 18
(19167 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
|
brachialis wrote: The hole is deepening in that it's starting to wear into the leather. Meaning, fix the shoe now, or else further climbing will ruin it.
Yes.
|
|
|
|
|
kobaz
Aug 15, 2010, 6:35 PM
Post #13 of 18
(19158 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2004
Posts: 726
|
Perfect... I was just going to start a thread on DIY shoe repair and then I saw this.
I sent two pairs of shoes out to rock and resole. Oddly enough only one came back with a resole job. And they refunded the charge for the other. The non-resoled shoes are my favorite gym shoes that I've had resoled twice before and have plenty of life left in them. Although rock and resole didn't think the same and left a note saying "rejected due to excessive rot". The shoes look just fine though.
They mailed them back with the front sole removed, so now they are useless in their current state. So I was thinking of doing it myself with a resole kit. I've found a few suppliers of resole kits like this. I can't find anywhere to get a rand kit other than what's on the 5.10 website. Is this what would be needed?
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Aug 15, 2010, 7:40 PM
Post #14 of 18
(19147 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
kobaz wrote: They mailed them back with the front sole removed, so now they are useless in their current state. So I was thinking of doing it myself with a resole kit. I've found a few suppliers of resole kits like this. I can't find anywhere to get a rand kit other than what's on the 5.10 website. Is this what would be needed?
This is a neat idea, and I'm glad you posted. However, Five Ten's retailing here is incoherent and just plain stupid. Are they selling a rand patching kit or a resole kit? Well, the answer is 'sort of' for both applications.
Five Ten has historically been somewhat unique among rock shoe manufacturers in that they use the same (or about the same) rubber compound for rands as they do for outsoles. Here they take that versatility concept too far. They give you nobby rubber because it's also versatile. Take a look at the bottom of the Guide shoes: same stuff.
You can resole a hiking shoe or sandal. And you can cut from the strip a small piece of uniform thickness to patch a rand.
But... it's also useless (or at best highly inferior) for resoling a technical rock shoe :/
|
|
|
|
|
grantjk
Aug 16, 2010, 6:28 AM
Post #15 of 18
(19091 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 14, 2006
Posts: 76
|
I suspect when they say "excessive rot" they mean that the mid-sole to which the rand and sole attach has deteriorated to the point that the repair won't hold up.
You could try doing it yourself, but you should know that there is a learning curve involved with doing rand repairs, and the first pair or two you do will take a lot of time and effort and are likely to come out a bit rough. For the money you'll end up spending on the resole kits, not to mention the time, you might be better off looking for a cheap pair of new or used shoes, particularly if they're just going to be beater shoes for the gym.
|
|
|
|
|
Scooter12ga
Aug 18, 2010, 5:27 PM
Post #16 of 18
(18921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2008
Posts: 65
|
What about Seam Sealer? I know I've used it on mountaineering boots before. Though I'm not sure if it's any different, chemically, than a thinned out ShoeGoo.
Another thing that comes to mind is a urethane roofing adhesive/sealer that I used a few years ago. I'm not sure what it was called, but it came in a tube like caulk. It was black, very dense, with a very smooth sticky consistency, and cured to a hard-rubber'ish feel.
Edit: Er..."used ON MY ROOF a few years ago." Not on my shoes, to be clear.
(This post was edited by Scooter12ga on Aug 19, 2010, 3:43 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
darkgift06
Aug 19, 2010, 4:19 PM
Post #17 of 18
(18828 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 16, 2009
Posts: 492
|
could use silicone, depending on how much of it will be contacting the rock.
|
|
|
|
|
brachialis
Dec 25, 2010, 8:27 AM
Post #18 of 18
(18154 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2008
Posts: 40
|
You mean Seam Grip (I've confused the two myself!), I think, and that's actually a really good idea. ShoeGoo forms a very weak bond with the rand (think, 'goo' instead of 'glue') and peels away after a few sessions of climbing.
So, to anyone else who stumbles upon this thread, although it seems perfectly suited, DON'T BOTHER WITH SHOE GOO for rock shoes, unless you're binding leather to leather.
I'll try Seam Grip this time around, since I've already got a tube of that stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
|
