I just ordered a soloist by wren industries. It will allow me to climb lead by myself (sport, trad, aid, TR, etc.). If I send a 5.12a, can I say I free soloed it? Technically I am free climbing, with one person (solo), so it is a free solo. Free solo has come to mean sans rope, but the term free solo only implies free climbing with 1 person. What should it be called if I send a route on self belay? It is definitely burlier than sending with a proper sport belay...

Dude, by definition it is a free solo - you're FREE climbing and your ALONE (solo).
Roped solo clearly refers to top rope roped soloing, not leading (which takes BALLS).
Full on free-soloing. Don't let the haters on here bring you down just because they won't climb without someone right there ready to take for them at every bolt.
So if your friends ask - yes, you free solo'ed 5.12.

We have silly terms like onsight, flash, redpoint, which are all basically the same thing.

Bottom line is I am free soloing with a rope, and unroped freesoloing is the same term for a completely different thing.

I am really just trying to point out the fact that our terminology SUCKS! Its not clear enough, its ambiguous, its multi-faceted.

well, maybe I didn't approach this topic from the right angle. I am not trying to spray and fool people about what I do. I never tell people I free solo a route when I use a rope.

I am really just trying to point out the fact that our terminology SUCKS! Its not clear enough, its ambiguous, its multi-faceted. free and solo means 1 person and no aid. Without a rope should be a different term. We have silly terms like onsight, flash, redpoint, which are all basically the same thing. With beta without beta, who cares? This is an actual REAL DIFFERENCE. We have terminology for stupid things (difference between flash and onsight), but no terminology for things that are quite different. Bottom line is I am free soloing with a rope, and unroped freesoloing is the same term for a completely different thing. We need better terminology. That's why I proposed "rope free solo" but the haters think I am trying to spray or something. Well, I have only ever told my wife and maybe 2 friends, so I dont think I am a sprayer. I only posted here in hopes of consensus giving our sport some better terminology.

Many people try to rgue that I am rope soloing, which I am doing. However, the term rope solo does not imply lead climbing, or free climbing. You can french free on toprope, and still "rope solo." The term rope solo would then need further clarification. Some people say aid solo versus rope solo (implying rope solo is free even though the terminology does not imply this). To those people, let me ask you, if someone says "I rope soloed el cap," do you honestly first think they lead climbed on self belay and sent each pitch? Hellz no, you think they aided it by themselves. In my book this is still a rope solo, and I have seen aid solo referred to as rope solo many times.

well, maybe I didn't approach this topic from the right angle. I am not trying to spray and fool people about what I do. I never tell people I free solo a route when I use a rope.

I am really just trying to point out the fact that our terminology SUCKS! Its not clear enough, its ambiguous, its multi-faceted. free and solo means 1 person and no aid. Without a rope should be a different term. We have silly terms like onsight, flash, redpoint, which are all basically the same thing. With beta without beta, who cares? This is an actual REAL DIFFERENCE. We have terminology for stupid things (difference between flash and onsight), but no terminology for things that are quite different. Bottom line is I am free soloing with a rope, and unroped freesoloing is the same term for a completely different thing. We need better terminology. That's why I proposed "rope free solo" but the haters think I am trying to spray or something. Well, I have only ever told my wife and maybe 2 friends, so I dont think I am a sprayer. I only posted here in hopes of consensus giving our sport some better terminology.

Many people try to rgue that I am rope soloing, which I am doing. However, the term rope solo does not imply lead climbing, or free climbing. You can french free on toprope, and still "rope solo." The term rope solo would then need further clarification. Some people say aid solo versus rope solo (implying rope solo is free even though the terminology does not imply this). To those people, let me ask you, if someone says "I rope soloed el cap," do you honestly first think they lead climbed on self belay and sent each pitch? Hellz no, you think they aided it by themselves. In my book this is still a rope solo, and I have seen aid solo referred to as rope solo many times.

BTW I have a Wren Solo Aid (not the same as the Wren Soloist).

It's not as easy to use, but I feel confident that it will hold me.

Actually the biggest problem I have, is rigging a bottom anchor. Here in the Canadian Rockies, the bottom of the crag is usually just a bit of gravel, with maybe a pathetic tree. So the best I can find is the lowest bolt, 10 feet overhead.

I have not taken it as far as your Soloist -- so maybe I should try harder?

OK dugl33, your advice sounds practical and really it's the best arrangement I've heard of. I don't really want to buy those screamers, but maybe this is a reason to do so.

Well, it's summer time now, and everybody wants to go craggin'. But next time I try this, I'll try to post my result.

I just ordered a soloist by wren industries. It will allow me to climb lead by myself (sport, trad, aid, TR, etc.). If I send a 5.12a, can I say I free soloed it? Technically I am free climbing, with one person (solo), so it is a free solo. Free solo has come to mean sans rope, but the term free solo only implies free climbing with 1 person. What should it be called if I send a route on self belay? It is definitely burlier than sending with a proper sport belay...

Call it whatever you want, brah. Nobody has to know the difference. I free soloed on my way to work this morning. First class the whole way...

Upfront just want to say some of this is in the realm of my own personal theory, but you might consider the following setup.

Buy or gather up two yates screamers and 4 locking biners. Make two "screamer" draws with the lockers on each end.

Clip a figure eight on a bight in the anchor end of your rope, put it on screamer draw no 1 and lock the gate. Now climb up and clip the first bolt with the other side of the screamer draw and lock it. Now climb up on self belay to the next bolt or good pro and clip in the next screamer draw. Clip the rope in with a clove hitch to this draw. (There is a neat little trick for tying this clove one handed just like clipping in by putting twists in the proper way as you clip)

You can now either snug up the clove hitch so the two draws are opposing each other in mild tension, or leave it a bit slack, so a fall at a higher piece loads both bolts together. (Personally I think the first option might be better since more rope is now able to absorb falls from bolt three on up.)

My thinking is if you fall getting to bolt 2, its a factor 2 fall on the first bolt, but with a little forgiveness on the bolt (and you) because of the screamer. Same factor 2 deal climbing from the second to the third because of the clove hitch. But from bolt three on you now have a nice two bolt anchor with load limiting draws on both.

With the two draws tied in slight tension, if you take a hard fall high up and open up the bottom screamer loading will just begin to hit the screamer on bolt two as the first one has gotten longer and the higher draw originally pointed down has now rotate up to load bolt two.

If the crux is between bolts two and three you might decide to skip the clove hitch on bolt two, just realize the downside is you now have a one bolt bottom anchor, but the upside is not taking a factor 2 fall at this spot.

The screamers activate at 2 KN so if you fall high enough on the route I doubt you'll activate them, but you'll have a little more peace of mind about the bottom of the route and the anchor situation.



Disclaimer... ya'll make your own decisions and assume your own risks regarding this stuff!

Roped masturbation
Aid masturbation
Roped solo masturbation
Team masturbation
Sport masturbation

Many people try to rgue that I am rope soloing, which I am doing.

However, the term rope solo does not imply lead climbing, or free climbing.

I am really just trying to point out the fact that our terminology SUCKS!

Anything as crazy and meaningless as climbing is deserving of such a lexicon. Revel in it, have a party. Celebrate the lingo, bro! Its the only one we got.

Don't be trying to change us now, we done been this way since before you were born.

DMT

Not only that, the question was posed in English, the singe most f-ed up language on earth. Cant rgew wit dat.

that's why I don't rope solo so much anymore. I was chronically chafed.

well, maybe I didn't approach this topic from the right angle. I am not trying to spray and fool people about what I do. I never tell people I free solo a route when I use a rope.

I am really just trying to point out the fact that our terminology SUCKS! Its not clear enough, its ambiguous, its multi-faceted. free and solo means 1 person and no aid. Without a rope should be a different term. We have silly terms like onsight, flash, redpoint, which are all basically the same thing. With beta without beta, who cares? This is an actual REAL DIFFERENCE. We have terminology for stupid things (difference between flash and onsight), but no terminology for things that are quite different. Bottom line is I am free soloing with a rope, and unroped freesoloing is the same term for a completely different thing. We need better terminology. That's why I proposed "rope free solo" but the haters think I am trying to spray or something. Well, I have only ever told my wife and maybe 2 friends, so I dont think I am a sprayer. I only posted here in hopes of consensus giving our sport some better terminology.

Many people try to rgue that I am rope soloing, which I am doing. However, the term rope solo does not imply lead climbing, or free climbing. You can french free on toprope, and still "rope solo." The term rope solo would then need further clarification. Some people say aid solo versus rope solo (implying rope solo is free even though the terminology does not imply this). To those people, let me ask you, if someone says "I rope soloed el cap," do you honestly first think they lead climbed on self belay and sent each pitch? Hellz no, you think they aided it by themselves. In my book this is still a rope solo, and I have seen aid solo referred to as rope solo many times.

No man your termanology sucks. Your fishing for excuces to down other climbers. You have multipul board names and multipull ID names I know who you are. Your favorite quote is anything you say will be held aginst you. go back to foresta and stay there. Or go bouldering and grow up.

Learn English.

*plonk*