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gunked
Dec 20, 2002, 8:24 AM
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Moving back to the East Coast (New Paltz) in the Spring and itchin' to buy a new set of tools. They'll be used for 3 up to 5+ (when I'm strong enough )with a little dry stuff thrown in for the fun of it. For those familiar with both tools (preferably having used both ) : If you had your choice of tools, which would it be?
I'm familiar with their prices and can get deals on both as I work at a Mountain shop. Although, I can get a killer deal on the rages. My main concern is performance. One thing to note is my hands are small. I've had problems with my old X-15 as a result. My Rambo seemed to be about the right handle size.
Thanx all!
Jason
[ This Message was edited by: gunked on 2002-12-20 00:27 ]
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alpineice
Dec 20, 2002, 3:29 PM
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I used the Quarks all of last season. They are great if you aren't doing much mountaineering. I used the Rages a little inbetween; didn't care for them much. The Quarks are definately good for smaller hands, yet the Rages have a smaller grip too, I think.
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tradklime
Dec 21, 2002, 12:45 AM
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The rages do have smaller grips. I happen to really like the way they climb and don't care much for the quarks. I think the rages make a better all around tool, and the BD picks are superior.
But everyone has their own opinion and swing style. Best if you can try them out, but I'd suggest the rages.
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beyond_gravity
Dec 21, 2002, 4:59 AM
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I hate Quarks. I climbed a WI3 with them, and I swear I will never buy them. They have WAY to much curve for my liking. this means that you need a ton of wrist flick at the end of your swing...something you usually lose when you get tired. I also hated Charlet Leash system. I'd rather climb on a moderate performing tool with good leashes then on a high end tool with crappy leashes.
I've never tried the Rage...but i've heard good things about it.
Black Diamond just doesn't seem to make bad apples...Cha Ching
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pbjosh
Dec 21, 2002, 5:32 AM
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They both have small grips, which is good.
For what it's worth, I like the CM bite-operated leash system a lot, and I like the quarks a LOT for steep ice. They are excellent on delicate and chandelleired ice, hooking phenomenally well and displacing much less ice than BD tools (smaller pick, more delicate swing). Quarks are also freaking awesome mixed tools.
The Rage would be a better crossover-to-alpinism tool.
For what it's worth, I'd go Quark all the way. For a heavier tool I like the Cobra a lot but not the rage so much.
If you're going to do some mixed climbing with them get two hammers. Contrary to popular opinion, a hammer works fine for clearing ice for a screw, just not quite as fast as an adze. It doesn't chop steps for $#!&, though. The big upside is that a hammer in the cheek hurts a HELL of a lot less than an adze in the cheek if you blow a placement mixed climbing. It happens. A LOT. Don't mixed climb w/ an adze.
josh
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vood00
Dec 21, 2002, 8:21 AM
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I don't think you can go wrong with either tool. I've climbed with both tools and I would have a hard time picking one over the other. They both climb really well, and as far as the picks go.....the moser picks require less time with a file than the BD picks. Personally, I'm swinging BD cobra's and have two sets of picks, one for ice, and one for mixed climbs.
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punk
Dec 21, 2002, 5:56 PM
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I have them both and Love them both but if u on the look for allarownder go with the Rages
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ontario_guide
Dec 21, 2002, 6:47 PM
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I personally use the Rages. The Quarks are equally nice too. I guess I just picked the Rages because that's what my partner was using and because I like the BD picks.
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gunked
Dec 22, 2002, 8:16 PM
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Thanks to everyone for the input!
In the end, I can't get a good deal on the CM's and there are no more rages left at the deal price which was insanely cheap. I have decided to go with the Viper's which I can get at below cost.
I already have tools that I'm not thrilled with that will work for any alpine I may be doing. The red X-15 and a Grivel Rambo.
I'm just psyched that I'll be moving back to an area where excellent rock and ice aren't a minimum of three hours away. I am no longer at a time in my life where I am willing to sacrifice work, relationships and family for climbing. In other words, to hell with the Bay area! I'm moving back to the Gunks where I can wake up and CLIMB!!! I'll miss The Captain (Yosemite), but NH isn't that far and how often do I do a wall anyway?!?!
Well, enough rambling and thanks for the input! Can't wait to put the new tools to use!!!
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