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heelhooker
Dec 20, 2002, 4:53 PM
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I've convinced everyone in my family to just give money and let me pick out my own, first, climbing equipment.
I'm going back and forth between a Petzl Reverso and a Trango B-52 for a belay device. I've searched the old posts and I've read mostly good on here about both with a few caveats too. Does anybody have any last minute input before I try to decide?
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climbinganne
Dec 20, 2002, 5:18 PM
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i love my reverso...thanks elvislegs
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tim
Dec 20, 2002, 5:21 PM
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get the reverso...
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orangekyak
Dec 20, 2002, 5:24 PM
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i've never heard anything bad about the reverso ... but i have heard minor complaints about the b52. maybe someone could enlighten me on the downside of the reverso?
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cloudbreak
Dec 20, 2002, 5:29 PM
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ATC!
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onbelay_osu
Dec 20, 2002, 5:30 PM
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me and my buddies all lead on the reverso and i think that, next to the trango jaws, it is the best belay device ever!
have a good one!
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rockfox
Dec 20, 2002, 5:31 PM
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My OPINION. The Reverso.
The Reverso has MANY more configurations, including AUTOLOCK mode. Also, it's one of the only belay devices that you can use to belay directly from an anchor without extra rigging.
I have SEVERAL types of belay devices (including and ATC and a GriGri) and I like my reverso better then ALL of them.
For those that will say "stick with an ATC style belay device because they are the standard and are less confusing." I agree, that's ANOTHER reason why I recommend the Reverso. It can be used exactly like and ATC only it's action is smoother.
Once you read the directions, you'll see. It's not as confusing as people try to make you believe. Hell, even if you can't READ, the pictures are descriptive enough.
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pbjosh
Dec 20, 2002, 5:43 PM
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The reverso is cool for belaying 1 or 2 seconds in auto-locking mode. But I think it's overkill and has too much drag for lead belays and rappelling, where I definitely prefer my ATC. In fact, I've only ever used the Reverso a handful of times (on alpine climbs or when dragging a group up something), otherwise my ATC is definitely my preferred way to go.
josh
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bclark_ca
Dec 20, 2002, 5:44 PM
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Reverso all the way!
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vegastradguy
Dec 20, 2002, 5:50 PM
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gee, I feel like a broken record saying this, but get the Reverso. It's the smoothest, easiest, coolest belay device.
I love mine, and everyone I climb with uses one as well, and I have yet to hear a complaint.
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heelhooker
Dec 20, 2002, 6:11 PM
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Getting toys for Christmas again is so much fun!:D
Thank you all for the feedback!
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coldclimb
Dec 20, 2002, 6:37 PM
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I'd go with the reverso, but I've never tried the B-52. Reversos are great.
By the way, nice to see another Alaskan on the site.
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jarvus
Dec 20, 2002, 6:48 PM
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I used to use the reverso (and liked it). I checked out the B-52, and liked it much better. It is an improved version of the reverso. Both can be used as an auto-block belay for bringing up the second. The B-52 has a keeper wire instead of a solid metal bar. This makes the B-52 less bulky and it makes it less likely to be dropped when you go to put it on rappel (the reverso has to be taken off the carabiner to get two ropes through).
The "catch" and rappeling on the B-52 are very good (and I like it better than the reverso). The only down side I have noticed to the B-52 is a little tendency to lock up when belaying a top rope (big deal). However, the feed for the leader is very smooth.
I would definetly go with the B-52
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naitch
Dec 20, 2002, 6:54 PM
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I'll second what Jarvus said about the B-52, except that I haven't experienced the down side that he mentioned. Silky smooth on a 10.5 mm rope.
Luv it.
Naitch
(by the way I have them both and they seem to have the same capabilities)
[ This Message was edited by: naitch on 2002-12-20 10:56 ]
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antimatter
Dec 20, 2002, 7:12 PM
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The reverso is cool but I hardly ever climb with two seconds.
In auto-locking mode, it sucks if you have a fat 10.5 (very fuzzed up rope due to dragging over sharp rock or long use) or stiff (PMI) rope.
Personally, I love the HB Sheriff, it's exactly like the ATC except it's got a solid metal "keeper" loop instead of the ATC's "wire" which can fray and then "micro-stab" you. It's also got the least amount of drag, yes even less than the Reverso. More drag may be desirable if you climb with skinny ropes.
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bigwallgumbie
Dec 20, 2002, 8:06 PM
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The reverso is a pain to feed, hard to put on the rope and outdated, get the B-52.
Or just get an ATC. Actually, if its your 1st belay device, get the ATC, totally idiot proof. Can't thread it backwards unlike some "other" devices.
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rockfox
Dec 20, 2002, 10:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2002
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No Flame here.
Just a note:
You can't thread the Reverso "Backwards" either. That's why it's called a Reverso. If you DO thread it backwards you will be taking advantage of ANOTHER feature of the Reverso. It gives you more friction when threaded backwards so that a light person belaying a heavy person without the extra effort.
About the only mistake you can make with a Reverso is threading it WRONG. That being said, if after reading the directions (or at least looking at the pictures if you can't read) you thread it wrong.....then I wouldn't trust you to sit the right way on a TOILET. Let alone use and ATC.
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heelhooker
Dec 20, 2002, 10:38 PM
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Can anybody comment on whether the Reverso is hard on ropes? Looking at all the literature and seeing how the rope drags over the edge of the plate I was wondering.
Also, i suspect i may be using either one with larger ropes more often than (k)not. BSA has a rule/recommendation for 11mm topropes with scouts.
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tim
Dec 20, 2002, 11:01 PM
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Mmmm, my Reverso worked well with my old 'fat' 10mm single and my 'fat' 9mm doubles, works well with my 9.4mm single now, but is a bit tough to use with some friends' 10.5mm and 11mm ropes. I like it a *lot*, the auto-lock on top is key for me (because I'm lazy as $#!&) but for people who primarily belay a leader, toprope, or gym climb, it will *suck*.
That said, I wouldn't trade mine for anything. Like someone else said, if you can't thread a Reverso properly, you lack the skills required to use eg. a Grigri correctly either. There's a helpful little picture on the side of the device, plus after a while you can feel the difference between 'wrong' and 'right' the instant you start to pull in slack for the second.
nb. It has never been hard on any rope of mine, probably a lot easier than the Jaws I used to use that would wedge dirt and $#!& against the rope when I locked off or rappelled. YMMV.
[ This Message was edited by: tim on 2002-12-20 15:02 ]
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diplodocus
Dec 23, 2002, 2:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2002
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Reverso for sure! I have 4 different belay devices but R is my favorite
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heelhooker
Dec 23, 2002, 6:20 PM
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Oh, man!! My kids want my new toys so they can wrap them!!!
I went to the shop this weekend and played with the belay devices. It was like being a kid hanging out in the toy isle again. I ended up with (drumroll)
a Reverso and a new Attache Spinball.
What kinda swayed it was the Reverso looked a little easier to pull off the autoblock when belaying a heavier, hanging second.
It also looks like there may be some advantages to running it backwards; it seems to feed smoother. We'll see.
I want to thank everyone again for their input. It is really great having this forum and being able to hear so many others' experiences!
Hurry up Christmas! I want my toys back!!!
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csoles
Dec 24, 2002, 12:24 AM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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If you're not in a hurry, you might wait to try the new ATC-XP. If you can't wait, get the B-52.
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epic_ed
Dec 24, 2002, 2:07 AM
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Damn it, Clyde...don't leave us hanging. What the f**k is an ATC-XP? Have Black Diamond and Mircosoft put together a joint business venture that will give us a next generation belay device that will cost more, look better, and perform half as well as the original? Don't tell me I need to purchase another license upgrade. Can I just pirate a copy from my friends like I do with their other products?
Please...spill the beans already!
Ed
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heelhooker
Dec 24, 2002, 2:27 AM
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Registered: Nov 26, 2002
Posts: 145
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csoles? are you testing the beta version?
oh man.... this is one XP i'd hate to have crash on me!
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smileyface
Dec 24, 2002, 3:25 AM
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