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funktimonious
Dec 16, 2002, 1:25 AM
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So far I've bought 7 bentgate BD Quicksilver 2 biners (9Kn open gate) for a total of 37 bucks. Now for the hanger side I'm trying to find a good straight gate, but does the open-gate strength really matter for that side? I was thinking about buying some Enduros (8Kn open gate), since they're only 5.45 a piece. Would this be advisable? Also, do you think 7 'draws is enough for beginner-intermediate sport routes?
--Peace.
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orangekyak
Dec 16, 2002, 1:49 AM
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Funk, I don't know where you climb/plan on climbing, but I have a couple of thoughts for ya.
First, regarding open-gate strength, I don't know. I'm not sure that the difference between 8kn and 9kn open gate strength is going to matter on either end of your draw. Maybe the fall-factor police will educate us on this.
Regarding number of draws, it depends a lot on where you climb. But keep in mind that you have to protect yourself at the anchors, good sense recommends two draws for this. And if you are like many, you keep those two there while you climb in order to save wear on the fixed anchor hardware. On many routes you might use a locker on the first bolt instead of a draw, shortens a fall (but only makes sense if it doesn't add to rope drag).
So check where you wanna climb, and if your partner is going to own draws. Most people I know consider 12 draws a good number for all purposes. And I do too. Have fun.
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kalcario
Dec 16, 2002, 1:57 AM
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*So far I've bought 7 bentgate BD Quicksilver 2 biners (9Kn open gate) for a total of 37 bucks. Now for the hanger side I'm trying to find a good straight gate, but does the open-gate strength really matter for that side? I was thinking about buying some Enduros (8Kn open gate),*
I wouldn't worry about it, any BD hardware is way bomber, but spend the extra scratch on lightweight draws because you have to carry them on hard leads...
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duskerhu
Dec 16, 2002, 5:47 AM
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funkti, the BD Enduros 8kn open gate is plenty strong until you start to pass the 200 - 220 lbs mark. If you're ordering online, I think www.reioutlet.com has some "cosmetic seconds" on clearance for like $2.98 each. Otherwise www.gearexpress.com has "blems" for like $6.39 wait, those are lockers... $4.95 for staight gate "blems" in the Enduro.
If you're going for the pretty ones, at REI stores you can get them for $5.95 each or if you buy like 6 biners in a shot, take about $0.50 off each one.
If I were you, I would have just spent the $130 and got 10 BD Enduro QD sets for like $12.95 each...
duskerhu
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climbsomething
Dec 16, 2002, 6:15 AM
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Funk,
I'd go for the nice round number... 10 draws. That should cover your bases a little better wherever you go. I have 14 draws (I know, 15 is a better number ) and that has so far always been sufficient (sometimes just barely) for my sport-crag-trotting
p.s.- don't forget your anchor draws! making them out of the longest Petzl Express dogbone is cool. I use an Enduro-Hotwire combo on mine...
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bouldertoad
Dec 16, 2002, 7:20 AM
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Any biner will work on the tops o fyour draws as long as they are of the climbing variety and not key-chains. I would not worry to much about the open gate strength of your biners. Rarely does this ever come into play.
Also in response to whoever said something to the effect that if you are in the 200-220 range and strength of biners is totally wrong. With an 8KN strength rating you are looking at about 2,000 lbf which is more than sufficient to handle any fall you will take. Also keep in mind that the strenght ratings are based on a static system which is not what a climbing system is. There is rope stretch your hand slips a little when braking the fall your body may move when catching the fall etc....
Also remember that doing 1 pitch routes significatly reduces your chances of taking a hard fall. You really get into the big numbers when you fall past your belayer on multi-pitch routes. But then you are falling onto an anchor that is hopefully at least three bomber pieces equalized.....
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tradklime
Dec 17, 2002, 4:16 AM
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I strongly suggest you consider keylocks for the hanger end of your draws. In the long run you'll be much happier.
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duskerhu
Dec 17, 2002, 8:53 AM
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Hey bouldertoad, when you are 200+ lbs and fall with a fairly small amount of rope out, you certainly CAN generate those kinds of forces! An 8kn open gate strenth is right on the borderline. However, if you're under 200lbs its unlikely you'd be able to surpass these ratings
duskerhu
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funktimonious
Dec 17, 2002, 9:31 AM
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UPDATE:
First of all, I'm 135 lbs...so I guess that's not a factor.
Second, I finished the purchasing . I ended up with the 7 BD Quicksilver 2 Bentgate, 7 BD Enduro Straight gate, and 7 Blue Water 1"x6" dogbones.
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Runners (6250 lbf) -- 1.59 each
Bentgate (9Kn Open) -- 4.43 each
Straightgate (8Kn Open) -- 4.78
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Total: 10.80/Draw...I think that's a pretty sick price. And each draw turned out lighter than Metolius' 5" draws.
--Peace.
[ This Message was edited by: funktimonious on 2002-12-17 01:31 ]
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dencio
Dec 20, 2002, 2:32 AM
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$10.80/ draw
neat shopping job funk. not too shabby.
in the long run though, you'd probably need a little more than 7 draws.
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hijack
Dec 21, 2002, 1:57 AM
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as far as draws go i use a series of DMM mamba draws and i have never carried 20 but the where is just as important as the y.
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