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Indoorrocker
Dec 25, 2010, 10:55 PM
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To start of, I am a beginner climber, have climbed indoors moderately over the past year and am looking to climb more and more through a school group. This Christmas I received a new pair of LaSportiva Mythos shoes in a size 40.5.
Normally I am an 8.5 or 9 Mens shoe and the 40.5 fit well. The problem is that my feet are slightly wider then normal so even though the width of the shoes fit snug, my toes do not reach the end. I thought of getting another smaller size but am worried that if I do, while the length will be good, the width will be too painful.
Any suggestions from experienced climbers?
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rightarmbad
Dec 25, 2010, 11:01 PM
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Wrong shoe for you.
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Indoorrocker
Dec 25, 2010, 11:12 PM
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What do you mean by that. Is there a right shoe you can suggest?
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acorneau
Dec 26, 2010, 1:31 AM
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Indoorrocker wrote: What do you mean by that. Is there a right shoe you can suggest?
If you need to stick with LS shoes then check out the Nago (lace-up) or it's sibling the Arco (velcro). I have wide feet and after a brief break-in they fit my feet very well.
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j_ung
Dec 26, 2010, 1:51 AM
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Indoorrocker wrote: To start of, I am a beginner climber, have climbed indoors moderately over the past year and am looking to climb more and more through a school group. This Christmas I received a new pair of LaSportiva Mythos shoes in a size 40.5. Normally I am an 8.5 or 9 Mens shoe and the 40.5 fit well. The problem is that my feet are slightly wider then normal so even though the width of the shoes fit snug, my toes do not reach the end. I thought of getting another smaller size but am worried that if I do, while the length will be good, the width will be too painful. Any suggestions from experienced climbers?
Here you go.
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 26, 2010, 2:02 AM
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You and I have the same shoe size. I am an 8.5 left//9 right as measured on a Brannic device.
I wear a size 40 mytho.
Until it stretches out, it will be a bitch. HOWEVER! DISMAY NOT! The upper will stretch enough to be pretty darn comfy for all day easy routes and crack climbing. For the gym not the shoe I would recommend however.
the Anasazi last might fit you well, I would suggest an Anasazi Velcro from Five10. Get a size 9 US and it should fit like a glove. Its a good medium stiffness, PERFECT for the gym - you want some support but want to feel those holds. Also a galileo might be a good option, a bit stiffer and a bit higher volume (high instep/fatfootcomplex).
From Sportiva I found that a 40.5 miura and 40.5 nago work really well. Stick with a full lace with this brand, it will allow for a wider foot to get a better feel. Also a good option is a Scarpa Force. Fits a wide toebox well, slim toe profile which you might enjoy.
Honestly my favorite shoe for the gym is a toss up between the anasazi VCS and the evolv Pontas. I resole anyway (don't waste shoes!) so you don't have to be too choosey about the rubber, they both have that sweet spot when it comes to stiffness, and both are a lined synthetic - until you've been climbing a few years it might be good to stick with a shoe that will feel the same in the store as it will after a month, until you get used to how you want a shoe to feel or stretch out.
Anyway, hope this helps, and merry christmas buddy :)
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Indoorrocker
Dec 26, 2010, 2:07 AM
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Well like I stated above the problem is that there is room in the toe area, where I believe there should not be. I saw the Pontas and was considering returning the Mythos for them if it turned out the area in the toe box could not be solved. DOes that seem like a valid idea?
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Kartessa
Dec 26, 2010, 4:44 AM
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If you have the option to return/exchange your shoes, ake a full afternoon and just try on every pair in the store.
Pick what feels best in the store, if it fits right, your climbing will reflect that.
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 26, 2010, 7:28 AM
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Indoorrocker wrote: Well like I stated above the problem is that there is room in the toe area, where I believe there should not be. I saw the Pontas and was considering returning the Mythos for them if it turned out the area in the toe box could not be solved. DOes that seem like a valid idea?
If theres room there will only be much, much more. The shoe stretches considerably.
Try the pontas
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TarHeelEMT
Dec 26, 2010, 7:39 AM
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I have the Mythos. It's a great shoe, and it's honestly almost too wide for me since the leather stretched. The length won't change because of the rubber, but the leather will stretch to add more girth to the shoe.
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Indoorrocker
Dec 26, 2010, 3:02 PM
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So what I am hearing is that I should get a smaller Mythos size and let the shoe stretch to the width, or get the Pontas or another shoe that already is made for wider feet?
Time to choose.
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gavroche
Dec 26, 2010, 3:08 PM
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I have wide feet and I find that I just don't fit sportiva. It's a shame because I really want to, but it's never worked out right for me. I found that to be particularly true with the mythos. As a general rule Evolv just fits me much better.
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justroberto
Dec 26, 2010, 4:39 PM
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Indoorrocker wrote: So what I am hearing is that I should get a smaller Mythos size and let the shoe stretch to the width, or get the Pontas or another shoe that already is made for wider feet? Time to choose.
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redlude97
Dec 26, 2010, 8:14 PM
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My suggestions for a beginner climber with wide feet are the evolve defys, LS Nagos, or Scarpa Thunders. All have extra wide toe boxes. The Evolve Pontas are meant to be sized tight and aren't the best beginner shoe out there. These are also some of the most widely available shoes around
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Indoorrocker
Dec 26, 2010, 9:23 PM
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So stuck between the Defy VTR and the Pontas. Gonna go into the store when I get back to try and decide. ALso saw 5.10 Moccasyms but they seem to be for more advanced climbers.
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Scourge
Dec 30, 2010, 4:08 AM
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gavroche wrote: I have wide feet and I find that I just don't fit sportiva. It's a shame because I really want to, but it's never worked out right for me. I found that to be particularly true with the mythos. As a general rule Evolv just fits me much better.
x2
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I_do
Dec 30, 2010, 10:45 AM
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Scourge wrote: gavroche wrote: I have wide feet and I find that I just don't fit sportiva. It's a shame because I really want to, but it's never worked out right for me. I found that to be particularly true with the mythos. As a general rule Evolv just fits me much better. x2
/3
My wide feet don't fit evolv pontas or defys (haven't tried others) but fit fine in sportiva muiras or katanas. There's more to a foots shape than just being wide or slender.
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rocknice2
Dec 31, 2010, 4:45 PM
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Indoorrocker wrote: So what I am hearing is that I should get a smaller Mythos size and let the shoe stretch to the width, or get the Pontas or another shoe that already is made for wider feet? Time to choose.
Return the shoes you have now and buy the shoe that fit hte best
Don't get stuck on any brand or review
Unlined leather shoes will stretch in width, a lot.
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