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centralrock
Jan 6, 2011, 7:37 PM
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I have been sport climbing for about two years now. I typically cover 5.9s and some 5.10s when in peak shape (typically in the summer). I have never completed a multi-pitch climb and really want to learn how.
I am looking for books and personal instruction. I have a climbing partner as well who would also like instruction.
Are there multi-pitches at enchanted rock? Are they limited to trad climbing? Would anyone out there be willing to coach my partner and I through it, etc?
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!
COLIN
central austin
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kachoong
Jan 6, 2011, 8:11 PM
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You may want to sign up and ask at the E-Rock forum, for climbers based in Texas, if you haven't already:
http://www.erockonline.com/forum/upload/index.php
There's a few multipitch climbs out there, some even bolted (relatively sparsely if you're used to bolted limestone). It's gonna take quite a bit to lean the basics of multipitch to you and your friend and it's time the typical climber won't have. You may get more luck using a guide service, but having said that, there are a few I'm sure willing to take someone under their wing... less so two people though.
Good luck and be safe out there!
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justroberto
Jan 7, 2011, 4:36 PM
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(There are a whole bunch of questions rolling around in my head, and I'm having trouble processing them into a logical progression that doesn't come off sounding like I'm being an asshole, so please don't think that's my intent.)
Why do you want to learn how to do multipitch? If it's because it looks cool, or you think it will be badass, or make you badass - that is, if it's an end goal for you - then you're coming at it from the wrong place, in my opinion. Don't be that guy at the sport crag bragging loudly to your awed buddies about the heinous epic you had on that two-pitch 5.6. Do you have an interest in learning how to lead on gear? If not, then it's even more of a silly enterprise since you'll pretty much be limited to a handful of so-so moderates at Erock. Your options at world-class multipitch destinations will be virtually nil. Due to its connection to the Potrero, Austin climbers tend to have a skewed perception of big climbing and what it entails.
If going to EPC is your end goal, then your single pitch sport skills don't need to be expanded very much. You can research how to anchor in, manage ropes, and rap, then go practice them a little. Just about any jackass with fundamental climbing skills can figure it out.
If, however, you see big, tall cliffs, cool features, nice lines, and you feel inspired to get to the top of them somehow, then you'll find a much more rewarding experience in the process of learning how to do it and in the actual practice of climbing big stuff. It will just involve a whole lot more than "learning how to multipitch" on bolts.
Suggestion #1 for Erock multipitch:
Bring two ropes. The number of bail biners that get left on Harder Than It Looks for rapping is silly. You can rap a couple of lines with a single 70, but if you don't know which ones, that doesn't help you, now, does it?
Suggestion #2:
Don't fall. That would suck. While it's got more bolts than it probably should, many of the multipitch routes on the backside will have runouts that are longer than the full height of any sport routes you've been on in Austin. If the last pitch is 2 or more grades easier than the first, it likely won't have any bolts, save the anchors.
Suggestion #3:
I hear kachhong is a great teacher. You should definitely go to his house to pick his brain. You'll have plenty of time to process his wisdom on the four hour drive home from his place in Middle of Nowhere, Texas. If you hang out on the GB, I could meet you out there sometime and chat, but I'd want to know you weren't going to manage to kill me somehow before heading out to the granite with you.
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centralrock
Jan 11, 2011, 5:34 PM
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Thank you for posting kachoong and justroberto. Kachoong, I have taken your advice and joined erockonline; the feedback has been spectacular.
Justroberto, my interest in the sport is sincere. I really enjoy climbing, learning additional skills and testing my inner/mental fortitude. I have always been humbled by climbing, and do not have any friends that would be awed by a 5.6 multipitch.
I wanted to see if there was a multipitch at enchanted rock that is accessible/inexpensive save additional gear needed. I am working as a nurse some 50-60 hours per week, so finding time to climb can be difficult- erock would only be a few hours away.
Enchanted rock is just a starting point to a much larger universe of climbing.
Thanks for posting again!
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justroberto
Jan 11, 2011, 6:36 PM
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You have a couple of options...
Mark of the Beast or Harder Than It Looks: The first pitches are well bolted for slab climbing. MotB pitch 2 is short and will trend up and left through a couple of bolts to the big ledge. HTIL pitch 2 has no bolts, but you can get a red camalot in if you have one, and it's short with easy climbing. Bolted belays at the left and right side of the ledge. From there you have a couple of options - 1) Head straight up from the left side of the ledge to an anchor (no protection bolts. 2) Head straight up the black water groove off the right side of the ledge (no protection bolts), or 3) angle up and right over the water groove about 15 or 20 feet to meet up with two or three bolts. The water groove is the easiest, best climbing. From the anchors you can easily run up the slab to the summit. Requires two ropes to rap.
Hartford, Boston, Kracken, or Dome Driver: I don't think anybody (aside from a handful of regulars) actually knows the original lines for these routes. First pitches of all are straightforward. On Dome Driver you'll want to have a long sling for the tree branch at the overlap. For all of these, you can end up at the big belay ledge. There will be a tree on your left, a wide crack/flake on your right, and a bolted belay in front of you. From here, there are several options. The guidebook says Dome Driver only has 3 bolts. I have yet to find this. 1) You can climb the easy crack (no bolts, easily protected with gear) 2) Clip the first bolt and head straight up through ample bolts to bolted anchor. 5.8ish. 3) Clip the first bolt and then head left through a couple of bolts in the green streak to bolted anchor. This line is better, IMO, but I think it's a little harder and has a few less bolts. There's also a lone bolt in between the two lines. This may be the original Dome Driver line, but after clipping the first bolt and then this one, I don't know where the third one would be. A single 70m will get you back down with 2 raps, but you may have to downclimb the wide crack a little bit - I don't remember.
If you don't want to rap your line, you can walk off the top back to the parking lot. Plan accordingly and bring only what you need, no big pack/rope bag/assorted other unnessary crap.
(This post was edited by justroberto on Jan 11, 2011, 6:55 PM)
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kevthegerman
Jan 12, 2011, 3:57 PM
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Centralrock... These guys know what ther are talking about for sure (justroberto esp..) I know that we (my climbing buds and me) have climbed pretty much all the multipitch avail at erock and when we started climbing we "practiced" setting up belays at our local crags on the ground to get accustomed to rope management, knots (clove hitch, bowline and fig 8 on a bight) and a bit of self-rescue as well.. my suggest is to read any of the "how to rock climb" books by John Long. He has the most straightforward and very interesting way of delivering great rock climbing wisdom. I simply love his books and have read, and reread them many times. Bottom line is USE COMMON SENSE, if you get up there and don't feel safe, DONT CLIMB. If you intend on rapping off use a 70 meter rope or you will have to downclimb to the second belay. only other option is to connect 2 60 meter ropes (here you have to worry about the correct knot depending on the diameter of the ropes that you are connecting..) remember there is nothing better than being properly trained and having the correct gear and knowledge of using the gear. Once you have committed to climbing one of the MP's i would recommend Mark of the Beast to be the first line as this is one of the easier lines and also gives you a great chance to practice the essentials of setting up a belay.... And let me add one last thing.. SRENE: Solid Redundant Equalized Non-Extending ... Equalize, Equalize, Equalize, while this isn't going to be a big deal on the huge belay ledges at Erock, you still need to practice this mantra as once you get to tiny ledges on 300, 700, 1000 ft+ climbs you will want to be well versed in this technique....
(This post was edited by kevthegerman on Jan 12, 2011, 5:00 PM)
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centralrock
Jan 12, 2011, 5:44 PM
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Awesome. I will be getting those books shortly. Thanks for the beta. So so helpful!
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zuratol12
Feb 11, 2011, 7:17 PM
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The best way to learn to multi pitch is to climb the route without ropes. Think about it... ropes just get in the way and you don't know any of the proper techniques. Why jumble your brain with knots and hitches? Protection is over rated as is technique. Think about the ancient proverb of the bicycle helmet. One day a bicycler jams his front brakes and flies over his handle bars and off a 1000' cliff. He smashes his head into the ground below. Now of course he should have survived, but instead he was killed instantly but also painfully and drawn out, when his helmet cracked and a piece of plastic sliced through his brain.
think about that next time you climb with a rope.
as for getting down...
take the way the old people use to get up... the stairs.
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kevthegerman
Feb 14, 2011, 9:53 PM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2008
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HEY!!!! it is always best to learn how to tie a monkey fist.. forget hitches and 99% of all other knots.. the only knot to know is the monkey fist...now i use this and put one in my pants to make sure that the crust of the earth is not hurt when my crotchal region hits the ground (see: 1994 northridge earthquake)....
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