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Hooky
Jan 19, 2011, 4:41 PM
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As far as I know, a hold is considered positive if it slopes towards the rock. But what about overhangs - is the "positivness" considered relative to an invariant horizontal plane or the rock? As in the picture - is the red hold (otherwise same as the blue one) positive or negative? I just want to get my terminology straight.
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sbaclimber
Jan 19, 2011, 4:57 PM
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I would still consider the red hold to be a "sloper", but seeing as I try to avoid such holds (and wall angles) like the plague, I may well be completely wrong.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jan 19, 2011, 4:58 PM)
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spikeddem
Jan 19, 2011, 8:47 PM
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Hahahahah, damn, and I thought I had a tendency to over think some things.
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jeepnphreak
Jan 19, 2011, 8:54 PM
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Don's strain your brain there.
the blue is a jug and the red one is a sloper.
The blue are easy to hold on to and red not so much.
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kachoong
Jan 19, 2011, 9:11 PM
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Incut sloping crimp?
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retr2327
Jan 19, 2011, 9:24 PM
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"I just want to get my terminology straight"
If you fall off it, it's a (*&!!$) sloper. If you don't, it's a jug.
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gosharks
Jan 19, 2011, 10:21 PM
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Hooky wrote: As far as I know, a hold is considered positive if it slopes towards the rock. But what about overhangs - is the "positivness" considered relative to an invariant horizontal plane or the rock? As in the picture - is the red hold (otherwise same as the blue one) positive or negative? I just want to get my terminology straight.
As you move up the wall, the red hold goes from positive to negative.
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Hooky
Jan 19, 2011, 10:35 PM
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The idea came to me in a gym, where a single piece of plastic can be placed on a vertical wall or mild overhang and be fairly positive while on steeper wall it becomes negative...or does it? The question makes sense (to me, at least) because even for the red hold, if you position your body right (close to the wall), the hold feels positive (relative to you, it actually is). But the moment your feet swing away the hold becomes more and more negative and we all know the rest. There are holds which, no matter the wall angle or body position, are negative, because you can't pull yourself towards the rock by them. I decided to ask the general population how the term "positive hold/crimp/whatever" is used and adjust my terminology accordingly.
Reading this back, you may be right about overthinking:-)
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swoopee
Jan 20, 2011, 4:34 AM
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retr2327 wrote: "I just want to get my terminology straight" If you fall off it, it's a (*&!!$) sloper. If you don't, it's a jug.
I consider all slopers to be evil effing slopers. The ones that I don't fall off of are just slightly less evil.
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