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rhei
Jan 9, 2011, 9:45 PM
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I'm considering buying a pair of BD Seracs and wonder about the performance of different versions on moderately technical terrain. The strap version offers compatibility with various boots/approach shoes, something I would appreciate in the summer. But I wonder if the strap design is any less secure, more prone to vibration, or has other limitations on steeper ice or mixed climbing than clips. I'll use the crampons mostly for Alpine conditions, so I anticipate scratching them over hard (not necessarily vertical) ice and stretches of rock. Do strap versions hold the crampons tightly enough so there is no wiggle or slip in the heel?
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Colinhoglund
Jan 10, 2011, 12:02 AM
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All depends on your boots. Personally I have clip sabretooths that fit great on my Trangos. I've seconded up to grade five ice in them, don't think I would have liked to do that with strap crampons since you cant really ever get them as secure. And if you can, prepare to get cold feet as you'll have to tighten them so much you'll lose all circulation in your feet.
Then go get a light pair of aluminum crampons with a flexi centre bar for the approach shoes, i wouldn't use the strap on seracs on approach shoes, too stiff, heavy and aggressive for that light of shoe.
Just my 2¢ though . . .
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csproul
Jan 10, 2011, 12:46 AM
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In my experience (take from that what you will) the pro of a clip has been that the crampon feels like it is more tightly attached to your boot, which I feel is an advantage in climbing more technical ice. The disadvantage with some boots/overboots/ice build-up is that there is some possibility that a bale can come off. The situations where I have been happier with strap-ons typically have been during less technical, mountaineering situations, where I was doing more walking, and it was imperative that the crampon not come off, and where I might be more likely to not get it on securely in the first place (think high altitude, using overboots, fatigue, taking them off and on frequently...). For more technical ice climbing and alpine climbing, I have usually been happier with clips.
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realawesomeninja
Jan 10, 2011, 2:01 AM
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strap ons all the way
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Scooter12ga
Jan 10, 2011, 6:17 PM
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In my opinion, for less-than-vertical terrain, I'm also going to put my vote in for Straps without hesitation.
Pros:
-Super easy to put on (this is very important in 'frustrating' conditions such as high alt, violent storms, wet/icy/balling snow, frozen fingers, etc...)
-Less likely for bails/clips to ice up
-Can be used on multiple styles of boots
-Easier for cold fingers or bulky gloves
-Very secure and solid when fit to your boots properly
Cons:
-Maybe heavier, depending on the style
-Maybe less secure on technical vertical ice (I don't have sufficient experience to make this conclusion though.)
-Straps can get iced and stiff, making it more difficult to get them tight on a cold morning.
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rhei
Jan 10, 2011, 9:39 PM
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I appreciate the feedback. I haven't had experience with aluminum crampons but am concerned that they can be dulled or bent too easily on rough or mixed ground. Plus, I'm not really interested in buying two pair of 'poons. I've been looking at the Seracs because they seem to be versatile and reasonably light weight for steel crampons. If anyone has had good experience with comparable designs from other companies, I'd welcome the input. Thanks.
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sween345
Jan 10, 2011, 10:16 PM
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rhei,
Head to Rock & River this weekend. http://mountaineer.com/?page_id=126
Get there early, it's gonna be crowded. You should be able to demo what you're looking for.
Jim
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Colinhoglund
Jan 21, 2011, 8:56 PM
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rhei wrote: I appreciate the feedback. I haven't had experience with aluminum crampons but am concerned that they can be dulled or bent too easily on rough or mixed ground. Plus, I'm not really interested in buying two pair of 'poons. I've been looking at the Seracs because they seem to be versatile and reasonably light weight for steel crampons. If anyone has had good experience with comparable designs from other companies, I'd welcome the input. Thanks.
Either the seracs or sabretooths are great all rounders. Serac= better climbing proformance, sabretooth= easier walking due to hybrid 2nd points. I have the sabretooths in the clip/newmatic/hybrid style and I love useing them with my trangos.
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gdburns
Jan 21, 2011, 10:07 PM
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I second csproul. Clips much better for technical ice, but also fine for walking / moderate climbing. Strap on's better for walking and they can be used on more types of boots. With Mountaineering boots I've never had an issue with strap ons being to tight. I want them super tight, and in my plastic boots, it does not affect circulation.
(This post was edited by gdburns on Jan 21, 2011, 10:10 PM)
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