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Stoves
Jan 24, 2011, 5:28 AM
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I'm fairly new to climbing, been bouldering for 2 months and here's how my progress went. (I been cilming every other day for the last 2 months)
Day 1: Could not do anything, arms got tired to quickly etc.
Day 2: Did a couple V0
Day 3: Did several V0 and one v1
Day 7: FIrst V2
Day 8,9,10, 11 etc... v2's!!
Now I'm nearly my 20th something session and i'm still doing v2's. It's really frustrating because it seems i'm not getting any better.
I'm considering taking a 1 on 1 lesson with an experienced climber, but they are quite expensive.
Figured that maybe I could get some advices and tips over here.
Much appreciated! thanks
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activemindcoach
Jan 24, 2011, 7:22 AM
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Hi Stoves,
I'd suggest first thinking about what is the difference is between the V2s you've been trying and the V3s? Is it strength, flexibility, technique that you're having problems with or... you've got it into your head that you're going to find V3 really hard and therefore you're likely to fail!?
In terms of your mind - before the problem try and clear all thoughts of success or failing and try to take a few deep breaths and think "focus" before starting and commit fully to what you're doing.
Hope thats useful.
Craig
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rtwilli4
Jan 24, 2011, 7:30 AM
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One you figure out what your problem is on the V3's, climb as many V1s and V2s as you can that address that problem.
For example, if you think that steep, powerful moves are the hardest V3s, then do ans may V1's and V2s with steep powerful moves as you can. Moving up grade is like building a pyramid. You have to have a good base. TONS of V0s, LOTS of V1s, LOTS of V2s.
Also, make sure you get adequate rest. Sometimes you'll need two or three days off. Beginning climbers, especially boulderers, tend to get excited, climb too much, and get hurt. Once you have an injury, it could plague you forever.
It sounds like you're getting a good amount of rest... just listen to your body. Have fun!
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j_ung
Jan 24, 2011, 1:31 PM
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20-something sessions and you're still only climbing V2?! You'd better hurry up. The send train is leaving the station. 
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TarHeelEMT
Jan 24, 2011, 1:53 PM
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Chill out and keep practicing. It turns out that climbing takes time and experience to get good at.
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NJSlacker
Jan 24, 2011, 2:17 PM
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Stoves wrote: I'm fairly new to climbing, been bouldering for 2 months and here's how my progress went. (I been cilming every other day for the last 2 months) Day 1: Could not do anything, arms got tired to quickly etc. Day 2: Did a couple V0 Day 3: Did several V0 and one v1 Day 7: FIrst V2 Day 8,9,10, 11 etc... v2's!! Now I'm nearly my 20th something session and i'm still doing v2's. It's really frustrating because it seems i'm not getting any better. I'm considering taking a 1 on 1 lesson with an experienced climber, but they are quite expensive. Figured that maybe I could get some advices and tips over here. Much appreciated! thanks
As a someone who is just now starting to break the V3 barrier (after 3 years of climbing), I'm going to guess that your limiting factor is technique.
Get "The Self Coached Climber". Read it. All of it. And then technique the shit out of V0s and V1s. Climb without bending your elbows as much as possible and force yourself to use your legs to push you where you need to go. Try knee drops and always keep thinking about your feet. A lot of beginner climbers like to keep their whole body facing the wall at all times, but you will learn how to twist your shoulders and hips.
If you practice these movements enough on the easy stuff it'll start coming naturally to you, and then you'll start using these techniques on the harder stuff.
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michael1245
Jan 24, 2011, 2:19 PM
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TarHeelEMT wrote: Chill out and keep practicing. It turns out that climbing takes time and experience to get good at.
I spent two entire gym trips (about four hours total) trying to complete a particular v1. Same route, over and over and over and over and over...and that's how it goes.
Have fun!
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blueeyedclimber
Jan 24, 2011, 3:14 PM
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Steps to improvement:
1) Chill out. Relax. Smoke em if you got em. If you don't got em, then drink em. If you don't got those either then go get some.
2) Once you are totally chill and relaxed, then come back and realize that yes, you still want to get past V2. Grades do matter, and anyone who says other wise is a weakmo .
3) All right, chill out again, because that was a little harsh.
4) Now that you have the proper balance of being chilled out and amped to improve, you can finally focus.
5) It is impossible for anyone on the internet to tell you exactly what is holding you back. It could be any number or combination of factors, including but not limited to fitness, strength, balance, technique, flexibility, innate climbing ability, muscle memory, training, feedback of those around, your own ability to observe, support of climbing friends, etc. etc....
6) With that said, plateaus happen naturally, depending on the above factors. They happen at different times and levels for different people, but they can be very frustrating. A few things that can help break through:
a. Try to determine, as best you can (observation of someone experienced will help), what is holding you back. More that likely it is technique. Figure out what types of problems (crimpy, slopey, body tension, overhangs, etc.) are giving you the most trouble. Work that type of problem, asking for someone who is good at those types to offer feedback.
b. Switch up your routine. If you mainly boulder, then go rope up and toprope for a while working on a variety of techniques. Once you feel yourself start to improve, then go back to the boulders with a little more energy and enthusiasm.
c. Just remember, to have a positive attitude and focus less on grades (yeah, I know I said they are important). Grades are only one way to chart your progress. Try to pay more attention to the little things.
d. Watch better climbers. Pay attention to all the little things that they are doing to climb as well as they are. If you can't figure it out, then ask.
Good Luck.
Josh
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spikeddem
Jan 24, 2011, 3:24 PM
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Steal beta.
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Stoves
Jan 24, 2011, 10:27 PM
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Hey Craig thanks for putting some thought into this
I would say that technique is my biggest problem. I often lose balance and swing to the side, losing the grip on the holds. I'm often being told to stay closer to the wall, but thats easier said then done.
I dont think the mental barrier is the case here considering how close I get to solving some v3s.
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Stoves
Jan 24, 2011, 10:33 PM
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I notice how often this book is mentioned when people are asking for advice on climbing. Will get this book really soon, thanks!
On a side note I went to Barnes and nobles in NYC and they didn't have it, so I got "Into thin Air" and "High crimes". There was a few books about technique but im sure the self taught couch is the one!
-Stoves
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activemindcoach
Jan 24, 2011, 10:38 PM
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No worries,
Sounds like practice and maybe a couple of coaching sessions might be useful? Either way I would suggest trying V3's/V4s as well as lots of problems you can climb.
I wouldn't under estimate some psychological techniques as many climbers over look this aspect and remain at a modest grade or plateau, techniques which could be useful includeIn reply to: : mental rehearsal, relaxation, posiitve thinking and goal setting. Good luck!
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Stoves
Jan 24, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Thanks, and yep i do got em.
In reply to: It is impossible for anyone on the internet to tell you exactly what is holding you back. It could be any number or combination of factors, including but not limited to fitness, strength, balance, technique, flexibility, innate climbing ability, muscle memory, training, feedback of those around, your own ability to observe, support of climbing friends, etc. etc....
I hear what you are saying. Will post some videos of my failure in different problems maybe that will help.
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Stoves
Jan 24, 2011, 10:51 PM
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v4's before doing v3? Interesting I will try that. Thanks
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saint_john
Jan 25, 2011, 1:45 AM
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In reply to: Day 1: Could not do anything, arms got tired to quickly etc. Day 2: Did a couple V0 Day 3: Did several V0 and one v1 Day 7: FIrst V2
why are you stressing out!? at this pace you'll send V16 in about 4 months. that's pretty good progress.
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lazymonkey
Feb 4, 2011, 11:49 PM
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lol
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MidnightR
Feb 6, 2011, 11:55 PM
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How easy do you find those V2s? Can you send every V2 in the climbing gym even the more crimpy routes?
My suggestion is to keep repeating the V2s and make them perfect. Like you flow up the wall, it should take very little effort.
While doing this start working a V3 you like the look of. It may take you an entire week to actually do the problem, but you will learn a lot in the process. Just keep trying the moves individually, you should get there eventually.
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ENARE
Feb 8, 2011, 4:59 PM
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Agreed! I am just getting back into climbing after a 5 year hiatus and was shocked at how difficult it was to get back out there and send climbs that I used to warm up on.
With that said, I remember the same climbs being next to impossible for me when I first started climbing and how they became a cake walk the more I climbed which allowed me to focus more intently on difficult problems. One day you will look back at these and think, wow I can't believe I struggled at all.
With that said, I would start climbing different problems that you are having a tough time with. Move around to other problems. Anything between V1-V3 so that you are being challenged but still building your confidence by finishing a problem. This will allow you to build your knowledge of the different problems and will give you ways to strategize how you will approach it the next time you go.
Lastly, never give up, keep at it until you get it but never make one problem/ set of problems your focus, mix it up a bit and have fun. You will find your self improving without even trying.
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cmagee1
Feb 10, 2011, 3:40 AM
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It might be technique. Kinda sounds like youve spent the last 20 sessions trying to power through the grades. I was in a very similar situation pretty recently. I dropped a grade and focused on climbing easy problems silently, with no swing, and slowly (basically focused 100% on technique.) After a week of this, I went back to the harder problems and hit one like it was nothing.
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cacalderon
Feb 13, 2011, 1:57 AM
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keep practicing and try to improve your footwork (aim and place your big toe precisely on the "good" part of the hold)... this will help eons with your technique at this level and beyond.
good luck.
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codral
Feb 14, 2011, 9:40 PM
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What you could try and what helped me heaps is doing laps of a really easy but semi pumpy climb... I had the strength for a while with no endurance so i'd only get a few shots at the pumpy problems before i was out of strength... traversing helped me alot too. Other than that find something that's too hard, V3/V4 and keep trying it, don't make it too pumpy or crimpy just something that looks technical, go at it and eventually your body will figure out where to position itself. Will help your technique a bit.
On a side note, and sorry to jack your thread... After 6 months of bouldering what should i be on, grade wise? Am working a few V6's and putting away most of the 5's at my gym
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SAUST
Mar 2, 2011, 1:12 AM
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Stoves wrote: Hey Craig thanks for putting some thought into this I would say that technique is my biggest problem. I often lose balance and swing to the side, losing the grip on the holds. I'm often being told to stay closer to the wall, but thats easier said then done. I dont think the mental barrier is the case here considering how close I get to solving some v3s.
Hey Stoves,
When you talk about losing your balance and swinging to the side, I would refer to this as a "barndoor" effect. Without seeing you climb it's hard to help, however when this happens it is mostly due to trying to make a move whilst "off balance". If you are trying to make a move to a hold with your right hand, it is most often the right leg that needs to drive this move. Same goes for the left.
If you try to push with your left leg and reach with your right hand, you are promoting this "barndoor" effect.
This is only my opinion, however. I hope it can help!
Cheers.
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kristiana
Mar 3, 2011, 4:39 AM
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In reply to: Man no worries. Really. You probably know that V2's change from one another. There can be a V2 I can make it in a blink of an eye and another that I am just stuck at it for hours. Routes are not the same although they are rated the same sometimes. Second routs are named by normal climbers. What is a V2 for you might not be for me sometimes. This dosent hapen all the time but sometimes it does though. I would say stay on V0 and V1 until you get exelent at it...than start failing at V2 and practice practice Practice until you can acomplish a lot of different routes and you are comfortable with it..and start V3 and fail and so on. This dosent hapen in a blink of an eye..not even in a matter of a couple of weeks..It takes time and patience. If we could move that fast I would be acing 9's by now. Hope that advice works. Good luck out ther.e
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rangerrob
Mar 3, 2011, 4:55 AM
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I didnt know V2 had a plus or minus. Isn't that like saying 5.4+?
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curt
Mar 3, 2011, 5:13 AM
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rangerrob wrote: I didnt know V2 had a plus or minus. Isn't that like saying 5.4+?
No. 5.4+ actually exists.
Curt
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