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ehmill
Mar 21, 2011, 7:38 PM
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I bought the Sicily climbing guide and "kevlar threads" are recommended as part of a rack on numerous climbs, but no explanation of what they are or how to use them is given. I have done a web search and forum search as well, without getting any clarity. Kevlar threads are listed as part of the rack for other places in Italy as well, especially Dolomites. I have seen nylon cordelette used for threading holes or tunnels on climbs in Thailand and guess this is a similar use, but wanted to be certain. Can anyone clarify this for me? Thanks.
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sbaclimber
Mar 21, 2011, 9:09 PM
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ehmill wrote: Kevlar threads are listed as part of the rack for other places in Italy as well, especially Dolomites. I have seen nylon cordelette used for threading holes or tunnels on climbs in Thailand and guess this is a similar use, but wanted to be certain.
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JimTitt
Mar 21, 2011, 10:42 PM
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I climb a lot in Sicily and the Italian climbers tend to use a lot more threaded cord in the limestone solution holes than most Euro climbers (we would use a thin sling instead or being English Iīd probably use a wire) and because the holes are generally shockingly sharp they prefer Kevlar/Spectra for itīs cutting resistance.
Certainly using cord is far better than slings but hanging on tying that triple fishermans takes some doing!
The alternative is lengths of climbing rope with an overhand and long tails, I carry a few bits of an old static for this.
Incidentally there is a new guide to the San Vito Lo Capo area coming out the end of this month from Gebro Verlag with over twice as many routes as in the old guide.
Jim
(This post was edited by JimTitt on Mar 22, 2011, 6:52 AM)
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ehmill
Mar 23, 2011, 5:54 AM
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Jim,
Thanks for the prompt reply and clearing up this for me. Not sure what you mean by a "wire" though. I assume you are the Jim Titt associated with Bolt Products, since you are from Germany? If so, I want to thank you in advance for all the labor & hardware you have put into new routes in Sicily that I have read about on your website. I have downloaded your guide and really appreciate you making this freely available on the web. I am looking forward to sampling your routes in Sicily and have plans for a trip to Argolis as well. I recently purchased the 2008 Di Roccia Di Sole, but will look for the new guide you mentioned. Thanks again.
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ehmill
Mar 23, 2011, 5:57 AM
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Thanks for the info, picture and prompt reply. Any concern about using kevlar cord for threads due to the bending effect I have read about which supposedly weakens it significantly?
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JimTitt
Mar 23, 2011, 6:46 AM
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Yep, thatīs me smiling at you from page 201 in your new guide! We are back in Sicily in a couple of weeks for yet more fun and fumbling.
Wires;- small, sharp solution holes are best threaded by taking a wired nut that wonīt go through the hole, threading the wire through and clipping the loop that comes out. If they are too short then cow-hitch a smaller nut on or even a thin sling, main thing is the bit touching the rock is wire. You can even even poke a small wire up through and clip a biner into the top if you donīt have a big enough nut.
Anything goes when it comes to staying alive!
Jim
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sbaclimber
Mar 23, 2011, 7:48 AM
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ehmill wrote: Thanks for the info, picture and prompt reply. Any concern about using kevlar cord for threads due to the bending effect I have read about which supposedly weakens it significantly?
"concern" as such...no, because the weakening only comes after repeated bending. This simply means that climbers should be careful to replace regularly used kevlar cords more often than nylon ones.
Especially those who girth-hitch the cord onto their gear loops.
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