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jonlong
Apr 18, 2011, 2:35 AM
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I've been climbing indoors for a while now and I'm ready to take a lead climbing course and make a few trips down to Red River Gorge. As such, I'll be investing in my first rope and need some advice on size. I will be using it with a Grigri 2.
The rope I'm strongly considering is the Sterling Evolution Velocity (9.8), but I'm wondering if I should go for a thicker rope, such as the Marathon Pro (10.1). I'm not super light (roughly 180lbs, but working on getting that down) and will only be climbing sport, no trad. Majority of the use will be indoors, with occasional use at RRG.
Is the 9.8 sufficiently safe? What other factors should I consider?
Thanks!
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gblauer
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Apr 18, 2011, 2:46 AM
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If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel.
I prefer a smaller diameter rope, but I am a light weight.
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Kartessa
Apr 18, 2011, 2:57 AM
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9.8 is enough but I'd recommend getting something a little bigger. The extra couple of mm can mean a much longer lifespan for your rope.
Honestly though, if you like both ropes equally, just buy the one that costs less $$.
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USnavy
Apr 18, 2011, 5:31 AM
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gblauer wrote: If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel.
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guangzhou
Apr 18, 2011, 6:04 AM
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jonlong wrote: I've been climbing indoors for a while now and I'm ready to take a lead climbing course and make a few trips down to Red River Gorge. As such, I'll be investing in my first rope and need some advice on size. I will be using it with a Grigri 2. The rope I'm strongly considering is the Sterling Evolution Velocity (9.8), but I'm wondering if I should go for a thicker rope, such as the Marathon Pro (10.1). I'm not super light (roughly 180lbs, but working on getting that down) and will only be climbing sport, no trad. Majority of the use will be indoors, with occasional use at RRG. Is the 9.8 sufficiently safe? What other factors should I consider? Thanks!
If this is your first rope, go with the 10.Xmm It will last you longer.
9.8 is sufficient, but you'll wear it out quickly for sure.
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shockabuku
Apr 18, 2011, 6:46 AM
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I've had both of those ropes (and liked them). In your situation I'd probably go with the 10.1. The difference in handling is not horribly significant, and the 10.1 should last longer.
On another note, I hate to have a full length rope for use in the gym so I'd consider buying a shorter length for that and keeping a separate full length rope for outside.
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herites
Apr 18, 2011, 7:48 AM
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Depends. In the gym where I climb, you can rent a rope for 300 HUF/day and buy a new set of 30m rope for 20000 HUF = you can rent a rope 67 times for the price of a new rope. That's around 1,5 year of use if you forego gym during the summer.
Conclusion: before buying a rope for the gym, do a quick math if it worths it. Also, constant small expenses are better than big expenses for piss poor guys like me :)
(This post was edited by herites on Apr 18, 2011, 7:57 AM)
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shockabuku
Apr 18, 2011, 11:50 AM
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herites wrote: Depends. In the gym where I climb, you can rent a rope for 300 HUF/day and buy a new set of 30m rope for 20000 HUF = you can rent a rope 67 times for the price of a new rope. That's around 1,5 year of use if you forego gym during the summer. Conclusion: before buying a rope for the gym, do a quick math if it worths it. Also, constant small expenses are better than big expenses for piss poor guys like me :)
What's a HUF?
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rnevius
Apr 18, 2011, 2:17 PM
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1 Hungarian forint = 0.0053 US dollars
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jt512
Apr 18, 2011, 3:33 PM
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gblauer wrote: If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel. I prefer a smaller diameter rope, but I am a light weight.
Sorry, Gail, but I kinda' disagree with everything here. He says he's mostly going to be using the rope at the gym, and occasionally sport climbing at the Red. Why would he ever need to rappel? Even if he were to rappel, why would he need to find the middle mark? Why would he need a 70-m rope? And a 10.1 Marathon is going to be a lot more durable than a 9.8 non-Marathon.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 18, 2011, 3:34 PM)
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jonlong
Apr 18, 2011, 7:41 PM
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Thanks for all the info so far.
JT512, is the Marathon 10.1 much more durable due to the outer wrap, or just because of the 0.3mm increase in diameter?
I suppose I'm less concerned about external rope wear because it won't see very frequent use outdoors (unfortunately) and I don't mind replacing it down the road when it is worn.
I'm more worried about (and maybe I shouldn't be) how the rope will catch in a GriGri 2, how it will absorb a fall, and that it won't just snap when I take a fall (though I haven't seen any cases of this, just a worry I have).
Thanks!
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jt512
Apr 18, 2011, 8:08 PM
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jonlong wrote: Thanks for all the info so far. JT512, is the Marathon 10.1 much more durable due to the outer wrap, or just because of the 0.3mm increase in diameter?
The "outer wrap" is called the "sheath." The durability of rope depends on the diameter of the rope and the proportion of the rope's mass in its sheath. The Marathon you are considering will be more durable than the other rope because it has both a larger diameter and a greater proportion of its mass in its sheath. More information can be found on Sterling's website and elsewhere on the 'Net.
In reply to: I suppose I'm less concerned about external rope wear because it won't see very frequent use outdoors (unfortunately) and I don't mind replacing it down the road when it is worn.
It'll probably receive greater wear indoors than outdoors because you'll be hanging, lowering, and falling on it more than you would outdoors.
In reply to: I'm more worried about (and maybe I shouldn't be) how the rope will catch in a GriGri 2, how it will absorb a fall, and that it won't just snap when I take a fall (though I haven't seen any cases of this, just a worry I have).
Grigris don't catch ropes; belayers catch falls. Both ropes are within the specs of the grigri2, so a competent belayer should have no problem with either rope. The 10.1 might be more a little more difficult to feed, but I wouldn't know for sure, since I have not yet used a grigri2.
How a rope will "absorb a fall" is quantified by the rope's impact force rating (lower is better), which can be found on the manufacturer's web site. Finally, no rope will "snap" when you fall unless it is a cut over a sharp edge, which is (a) generally preventable, (b) no factor in a gym, and (c) a rare event anyway.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 19, 2011, 12:00 AM)
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jonlong
Apr 18, 2011, 8:14 PM
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Great, thanks for answering my questions so well.
Seems like either rope will be fine, but the 10.1 Marathon will hold up better. I'll probably go for that one, though I do like the colors of the Evolution, which doesn't matter at all.
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olderic
Apr 18, 2011, 8:14 PM
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jt512 wrote: gblauer wrote: If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel. I prefer a smaller diameter rope, but I am a light weight. Sorry, Gail, but I kinda' disagree with everything here. He says he's mostly going to be using the rope at the gym, and occasionally sport climbing at the Red. Why would he ever need to rappel? Even if he were to rappel, why would he need to find the middle mark? Why would he need a 70-m rope? And a 10.1 Marathon is going to be a lot more durable than a 9.8 non-Marathon. Jay
Knowing where the middle is COULD help in some sketchy "is it long enough?" lowering scenarios. that said - I would be very reluctant to rely (solely or even primarily) on rope markings to find the middle. We all know the stories. If that spiffy bicolor 70 gets used for some intense sport climbing at the Red how long will it be before one end gets lopped off?
But yeah - Jay has a point - if the primary use in indoors then the length and pattern of a bicolor 70 would be extreme overkill. The Velocity is extremely durable for a < 10mm rope. Both it and the Marathon are in the same Sterling family - Evolution I think. Get whatever is the best deal.
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gosharks
Apr 18, 2011, 9:16 PM
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olderic wrote: Both it and the Marathon are in the same Sterling family - Evolution I think. Get whatever is the best deal.
The Marathon Pro is 1g/m heavier and has slightly lower impact forces than the Velocity. Not much of a reason to go with the thinner rope.
I have a Pro and it's the best rope that I've ever had the opportunity to use. Definitely will be getting a second one when I wear this out.
(This post was edited by gosharks on Apr 18, 2011, 9:16 PM)
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guangzhou
Apr 19, 2011, 12:40 AM
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jt512 wrote: jonlong wrote: Thanks for all the info so far. JT512, is the Marathon 10.1 much more durable due to the outer wrap, or just because of the 0.3mm increase in diameter? The "outer wrap" is called the "sheath." The durability of rope depends on the diameter of the rope and the proportion of the rope's mass in its sheath. The Marathon you are considering will be more durable than the other rope because it has both a larger diameter and a greater proportion of its mass in its sheath. More information can be found on Sterling's website and elsewhere on the 'Net. In reply to: I suppose I'm less concerned about external rope wear because it won't see very frequent use outdoors (unfortunately) and I don't mind replacing it down the road when it is worn. It'll probably receive greater wear indoors than outdoors because you'll be hanging, lowering, and falling on it more than you would outdoors. In reply to: I'm more worried about (and maybe I shouldn't be) how the rope will catch in a GriGri 2, how it will absorb a fall, and that it won't just snap when I take a fall (though I haven't seen any cases of this, just a worry I have). Grigris don't catch ropes; belayers catch falls. Both ropes are within the specs of the grigri2, so a competent belayer should have no problem with either rope. The 10.1 might be more a little more difficult to feed, but I wouldn't know for sure, since I have not yet used a grigri2. How a rope will "absorb a fall" is quantified by the rope's impact force rating (lower is better), which can be found on the manufacturer's web site. Finally, no rope will "snap" when you fall unless it is a cut over a sharp edge, which is (a) generally preventable, (b) no factor in a gym, and (c) a rare event anyway. Jay
This is by far the best answer so far. Excellent post Jay.
I'll add, the Red Does have some routes that require a 70meter, but not enough to worry about if this is your first rope.
Bicolor, you don't need it.
Nice post Jay.
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USnavy
Apr 20, 2011, 7:56 AM
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jt512 wrote: gblauer wrote: If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel. I prefer a smaller diameter rope, but I am a light weight. And a 10.1 Marathon is going to be a lot more durable than a 9.8 non-Marathon. Jay
(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 20, 2011, 7:58 AM)
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jt512
Apr 20, 2011, 5:45 PM
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USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: gblauer wrote: If it were me I would be looking for a 70M bi-pattern rope. Saves a LOT of hassle when trying to find the middle as you set up a rappel. I prefer a smaller diameter rope, but I am a light weight. And a 10.1 Marathon is going to be a lot more durable than a 9.8 non-Marathon. Jay It should be noted that suggesting a larger diameter to a new climber is not just about durability, its about saftey as well. The chance of an inexperienced climber dropping someone on a 9.8mm rope is greater than it is with a 10.5mm rope. For an experienced climber 9.8mm is no biggy to catch whippers on, but a slight error in your belay technique and that skinny can zip through your hands before you know what happened.
Well, he said that he planned to use the rope with a Grigri 2, so I wouldn't anticipate there being any difficulty due to the us of a 9.8-mm rope. On the other hand, despite his plans, he is likely to eventually be belayed by a partner using a different belay device, so you've got a point.
Jay
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bearbreeder
Apr 20, 2011, 6:27 PM
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10-10.3 mm
still feeds through most devices decently
strong enough for a lot of top rope
can take quite a few falls
cheap
dont bother with dry treatment, or bi color for your first rope unless u got money to burn
do get a 70 if there are climbs in yr area that require one
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