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Vegasclimber10
Jun 4, 2011, 10:06 AM
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Hello all,
We are planning to spend two or three days midweek in Dresden in August, and I would like to get out on the rock there.
I have been working on my knots, and will be spending some time placing them here before we go over.
I am a low level climber (5.6-5.7) but used to sandstone. Would anyone have some suggestions, or be interested in coming out for some climbing?
Thanks!
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Vegasclimber10
Jun 6, 2011, 8:49 PM
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Thanks SBA, any advice is gladly accepted. Most of the rack I have so far, I built with the tips you gave me. It's starting to come together, but I don't know where to get that "sticky" sling that you use here. I may have to get one over in Mainz when I get there.
Too bad you work during the week! But I know how that goes - I am stuck working every weekend now, probably for the rest of the summer. Makes it harder to find partners.
(This post was edited by Vegasclimber10 on Jun 6, 2011, 8:50 PM)
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sbaclimber
Jun 7, 2011, 8:33 AM
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: Thanks SBA, any advice is gladly accepted. Most of the rack I have so far, I built with the tips you gave me. It's starting to come together, but I don't know where to get that "sticky" sling that you use here. I may have to get one over in Mainz when I get there. Too bad you work during the week! But I know how that goes - I am stuck working every weekend now, probably for the rest of the summer. Makes it harder to find partners. 
IFAIK, you won't find Fusselschlinge in the states. They aren't absolutely critical anyhow. When new, they are just as smooth as any other sling, they only get fuzzy with use. The one benefit they do have over other slings, when new, is that they are fairly stretchy.
What I would definitely recommend getting a hold of though, is kevlar cord! There are a lot of threads and knot placements perfect for 5-7mm cord. Nylon in that diameter isn't likely to hold a fall though, which is why kevlar is so important.
My recommendation, if you can't find the sling material and cord in Mainz, is definitely hit up Bergsport Arnold ("Der Insider") in Bad Schandau. If anyone will have what you need, they will.
If you are looking for "a" guide (no 1 guide covers all of the Elbi), then these are probably the best to get.....if you can find them: http://www.kompaktfuehrer.de/
Two routes I can recommend are the AW ("alter Weg") and/or the Südwand on the Türkenkopf in Rathen:
The AW, P1, comes up and over the bump to the right of the red dot (rap anchor), traverses past the rap anchor to a bollard (blue dot). From there, it continues up the corner where the climbers are visible (P2). The Südwand is the face on the left. The climber (white dot) is hanging on the ring at the top of P1. P2 also goes up the corner. The AW is grade III (5.4ish) and the Südwand is V (5.7ish). To the ring it is only III though, with lots and lots of protection opportunities. 
I will post up more route recommendations as I think of them....
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 7, 2011, 8:58 AM)
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sbaclimber
Jun 8, 2011, 6:47 PM
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Okay, couple more tips....
In the area "Bielatal" (the very scenic Biela Valley), there are apparently quite a few relatively well protected routes in the lower grades.Recommendations from myself, friends, and from the website Teufelsturm are...
Winkelriß, Daxenstein (II)
Löschnerwand, Daxenstein (IV)
AW, Chinesischer Turm (V)
AW, Kleine Herkulessäule (IV):
I have only done the two routes on the Daxenstein myself, but they were both very good....and well protected (except maybe the first ~4m of the Löschnerwand ...after that, it's good though  )
Edit: slight correction to 'AW, Chinesischer Turm (V)', after talking with someone who did it recently. Apparently, there isn't much in the way of pro in the first 5m, and they are the hardest climbing in the route. After that, the climbing gets easier and the protection much better...
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 12, 2011, 12:03 PM)
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sbaclimber
Jun 11, 2011, 9:22 AM
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'nother route I can personally recommend is the AW on 'Die Nonne':
It climbs the central crack on the opposite side of the tower. The orignal AW traverses in from the left (sitting climber) and is only a grade II. The EV ("direct start") is the more direct and logical line (climber's arm just visible to the right), and is still only a grade III. All very well protected.
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sbaclimber
Jun 11, 2011, 9:41 AM
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Unfortunately, I cannot recommend doing it without someone to show you the way (route finding can be a bit tricky in a couple spots), but if you find someone to give you very good directions or another party to follow, the "must do" route of the Elbsandsteingebirge is the Schusterweg on the Falkenstein. 6 pitches, grade III, and once you have an eye for pro, relatively well protected.
P1 is up a gulley in the central shadow. To get to P2, traverse right along the white horizontal ledge.
P2 is up the open book corner about mid-way along the ledge.
P3 is the 45deg right leaning chimney out onto the shoulder.
P4 is up the slabby shoulder above the chimney.
P5-6 are around to the right in the shadows. The route tops out on the backside of the summit.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 11, 2011, 2:09 PM)
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Vegasclimber10
Jun 11, 2011, 9:56 PM
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Thanks for all the great beta!
Stupid question time - what grading system is used there? I have a converter but I need to know the original grade system.
We are hoping to locate someone to climb with, that will make life easier I think. Appreciate you taking the time to post up some ideas!
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sbaclimber
Jun 12, 2011, 7:07 AM
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: Stupid question time - what grading system is used there? I have a converter but I need to know the original grade system
http://de.wikipedia.org/...skala_%28Klettern%29
(e.g. the table on the english page says Saxony III = YDS class 4, which it isn't...YDS 5.4 is about right)
As anywhere, the grades are often hard to compare to grades elsewhere, and even vary quite a lot within the Elbsandsteingebirge as well.
Generally speaking, IMO, give or take a grade, I would say Saxon to YDS in the lower grades is roughly:
I = anywhere from class 4 up to ~5.2
II = 5.3
III = 5.4
IV = 5.5/5.6
V = 5.6/5.7
VI = 5.8
VIIa = 5.8+
VIIb = 5.9
VIIc = 5.9+/5.10a
and that's about as hard as I climb....
Unless you are a master offwidth/chimney climber, you need to watch out for chimneys, and in general, anything grade V or VI.
I am not good at offwidths or chimneys, and have followed at least one V offwidth, that felt at least as hard as any VIIc I have ever done...
And a lot of Vs and VIs, chimneys or not, are just plain sandbagged ('historical' grading and all...).
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 12, 2011, 12:01 PM)
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Vegasclimber10
Jun 26, 2011, 12:21 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Juat a little bump to add, that we will also be sport climbing at the Bunker in Berlin, if anyone from there happens to catch this thread.
It looks like our date is getting pushed back to the last week in August, a bunch of stuff came up with my girl's work and right now we are waiting on that.
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camilotto
Jul 11, 2011, 6:22 PM
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A recommended Program
All towers of the list are easy to find. The listed towers are close together, so only one access is necessary for the day. Route finding is also easy to moderate. Protection can be poor, so start at low grades.
(<Name of Tower> - "<Name of Route>" <Grade in Saxon Scale>)
The first day: Schrammsteine - Group of Towers near "Schrammtorwächter"
Approach from Bad Schandau: by foot in 30-60min, depending where You start.
Need definitely dry weather.
Motto of the day: "Get the feeling!"
Flasche - "Alter Weg" I
Bierdeckel - "Westkante" II
Max und Moritz - "Alter Weg" II
Zackenkrone - "Alter Weg" III
Spitzer Turm - "Löschnerwand" IV
Only, if You're not being challenged and You feel very safe:
Schrammtorwächter - "Alter Weg" VI
If You like narrow chimneys with no protection (nearby):
Meuerturm - "Genießerspalte" IV
The second day: Bielatal as sbaclimber suggested - Group of the "Herkussäulen" and "Chinesischer Turm"
Approach from Bad Schandau: take the S-Bahn to Königstein, from there take the bus to Rosenthal/Bielatal)
All towers of that group are directly in front of the car parc at the opposite side of the valley. To be avoided at weekends. Very solid rock. Dries quickly after rain.
Motto of the day: "Get more steepness!"
Herkulesstein - "Alter Weg" II
Kleine Herkussäule - "Alter Weg" IV
Schraubenkopf - "Alter Weg" IV
Chinesischer Turm - "Alter Weg" V
Chinesischer Turm - "Schulterriß" V
The third day: Rathen - Group of "Lokomotive"
Approach: take the S-Bahn to Rathen, take the ferry, then 20min
Need definitely dry weather.
Motto of the day: "Accept the challenge!"
Bienenkorb - "Alter Weg" II
Lokomotive-Dom - "Alter Weg" III
Lamm - "Rechte Südwestwand" VI
Honigstein - "Südkante" VI
Only, if You're not beeing challenged:
Lokomotive-Esse - "Südkante" VI
Only, if You feel safe with the cracks and the knot slings:
Lokomotive-Dom - "Südwestverschneidung" VI
Only, if You have no problems with spacy situations and scary moves:
Lokomotive-Esse - "Überfall" V
Alternative for day 2 or 3: Schmilkaer Gebiet - Lehnsteigtürme
Approach: get the bus to Schmilka, then 40min
Motto of the day: "Climbing and landscape!"
Böser Turm - "Alter Weg" III
2. Lehnsteigturm - "Alter Weg" III
3. Lehnsteigturm - "Südrinne" V
Urvieh - "Reibungskante" VI
If You feel safe with the slings and You like hand jams:
Lehnkuppel - "Südweg" VI
(This post was edited by camilotto on Jul 11, 2011, 6:33 PM)
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sbaclimber
Jul 11, 2011, 7:12 PM
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camilotto wrote: If You feel safe with the slings and You like hand jams: Lehnkuppel - "Südweg" VI
Thank you, I've added it to my to-do list.
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Vegasclimber10
Jul 17, 2011, 12:40 AM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2010
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Thanks for taking the time to write up this awesome list Cam!
We will be staying in Bad the first night, and Bielatal the second night. After day three, we are going to head back into Mainz so we can get some shopping done the last day before we head home.
I'm hoping for good weather!
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Vegasclimber10
Jul 28, 2011, 10:04 PM
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Just a bump for final planning.
We will be climbing in Berlin at the Bunker the 14th, if we can get ahold of the DAV - they arent responding to emails.
The 15th, we will be in Bad Schandau, and the 16th we will be in Bielatal. We might climb some in the morning of the 17th before we head back to Frankfurt.
Thanks to all who chimed in and helped out with the beta! Hope the weather holds!
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sbaclimber
Jul 29, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Vegasclimber10 wrote: We will be climbing in Berlin at the Bunker the 14th, if we can get ahold of the DAV - they arent responding to emails.
If you mean the Bunker Humboldthain, access is going to be a bit tricky anyway. At least officially, only members of the DAV are allowed to climb there.
Your best bet is probably to just show up, and if anyone is there, ask if you can jump on a couple routes.
I haven't climbed there myself, but from what I understand, the routes are pretty stiff. The are only about three or four routes which are 5.9/5.10a-ish, everything else is harder...
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 29, 2011, 10:50 AM)
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Vegasclimber10
Jul 30, 2011, 9:34 PM
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Yeah, I had my girl email them again today, in German this time. Maybe that will help.
I know the routes there are stiff, we aren't planning to do much there really. But it's hard to pass up an opportunity like that, especially as I don't think we will be back in Germany for several years.
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