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TaoistSage
Jul 25, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2011
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Hello RockClimbing community,
I did a search before deciding to post this and couldn't really find much along the line except for a small debate. I have been climbing for about 6 months casually on some converted grain silo's. About 80% of the time I will climb in my Vibram FiveFingers and the other 20% of the time in a pair of climbing shoes that owner of the silo has. They are an old pair of 5.10's but not sure on the exact type. I am looking at buying my first pair of shoes but really want something with a thin sole to them. One of the major reasons I like climbing in my Vibrams so much is I love the thin responsive sole of them and being able to feel so much of the hold beneath my feet. I know that the 5.10 Projects are supposed to have rather thin soles but I was wondering if there are any other climbing shoes out there with thin soles that you all would recommend. I know that I won't be able to find something that is as thin as the Vibrams but the closer I can get to them and still have a decent edge the better. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
(This post was edited by TaoistSage on Jul 25, 2011, 10:09 PM)
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jakedatc
Jul 25, 2011, 10:34 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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TaoistSage wrote: Hello RockClimbing community, I did a search before deciding to post this and couldn't really find much along the line except for a small debate. I have been climbing for about 6 months casually on some converted grain silo's. About 80% of the time I will climb in my Vibram FiveFingers and the other 20% of the time in a pair of climbing shoes that owner of the silo has. They are an old pair of 5.10's but not sure on the exact type. I am looking at buying my first pair of shoes but really want something with a thin sole to them. One of the major reasons I like climbing in my Vibrams so much is I love the thin responsive sole of them and being able to feel so much of the hold beneath my feet. I know that the 5.10 Projects are supposed to have rather thin soles but I was wondering if there are any other climbing shoes out there with thin soles that you all would recommend. I know that I won't be able to find something that is as thin as the Vibrams but the closer I can get to them and still have a decent edge the better. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Any climbing shoe will perform better than your 5 fingers.
the general standard is 4mm so go find something that fits your foot correctly.
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johnwesely
Jul 25, 2011, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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If you want thin rubber, get something with the new 5.10 mystique rubber like the new supermoccs. I will never be going back.
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acorneau
Jul 25, 2011, 11:54 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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Evolve: K-Lace (lace-up) and Kaos (velcro) are supposed to have a thin sole and be "sensitive".
For FiveTen: look at the Team 5.10 and the Project.
(I don't have any personal experience with any of these shoes but that's what they say on their websites.)
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ghisino
Jul 27, 2011, 8:55 AM
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sportiva (from "most sensitive" to "less sensitive") : speedster, python, cobra, solution, testarossa
btw sole thickness is one thing but not the only factor that makes you "feel" the holds.
99% rock shoes have a thin plastic sheet between the rubber of the sole and the leather sock around your foot. (Intersole).
The purpose of this piece is to stiffen the boot so that it suffers less deformation over really small footholds (more edging precision) and to relieve some of the fatigue of standing on your toes all the time.
It does however kill sensitivity and the ability to deform and paste to smooth /irregular footholds (smearing)
Now : speedster and projects do not have an intersole. The new green laceup from 5.10 (don't remember the name...) also shouldn't.
cobras, pythons, team 5.10 do have an intersole but it is so thin and supple that it is almost as if it wasn't there.
Evolv defys too used to be ultra-sensitive, dunno if they're still made the same way (Sometimes brands small tweaks to a model without changing the name color etc...)
Solutions and Testarossas (and 5.10 dragons, and the new 5.10 arrowhead) are a tiny bit stiffer when new, but will also become very supple and sensitive with use (because you wear the soles down and because the intersole material gets more flexible over time. That's the same for almost any shoe on the market, no rock boot will stay as stiff as the first day you wear it)
Notice however that all such "super-sensitive" shoes should be worn really tight to be effective : the tension of the shoe squeezed around your foot will then make the work of the non-exixtent or non-substantial intersole.
You then have a shoe that is very precise, very sensitive, but, sadly, uncomfortable and "tiring" for a beginner's foot.
(though having a sensitive shoe really helps you to learn good footwork fast : a beginner should wear soft shoes if he/she can accept the suffering they provide)
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warrenw
Jul 27, 2011, 1:24 PM
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johnwesely wrote: If you want thin rubber, get something with the new 5.10 mystique rubber like the new supermoccs. I will never be going back.
+1 on the Supermocc. After a week of use mine are as floppy as wet noodles and oh so comfortable. I usually recommend a less aggressive, more comfy shoe to beginners, and if you want thin rubber, the Supermocc is the only shoe I know of that combines those characteristics.
I bought mine for warmup/plastic training and have been completely satisfied. I'll probably use them on friction slab in the winter as well.
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ryanb
Jul 27, 2011, 3:55 PM
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warrenw wrote: johnwesely wrote: If you want thin rubber, get something with the new 5.10 mystique rubber like the new supermoccs. I will never be going back. +1 on the Supermocc. After a week of use mine are as floppy as wet noodles and oh so comfortable. I usually recommend a less aggressive, more comfy shoe to beginners, and if you want thin rubber, the Supermocc is the only shoe I know of that combines those characteristics. I bought mine for warmup/plastic training and have been completely satisfied. I'll probably use them on friction slab in the winter as well.
+2. They are thinner then the vibram five fingers but climb like an actual climbing shoe and will stretch to fit your foot better. The teams and projects are too downturned and the teams use a thicker sole. I've been really liking the supermoc on steep boulders with techy slope smearing required to keep your feet on and plan to use them on a few thin cracks too.
You might also consider a pair of normall mocasyms (or at least see if you can try them on for sizeing somewhere ...they fit about the same as the super mocs but are more widelly available). Size either shoe so your toes are almost as scruntched as you can stand to climb in...they are unlined leather and stretch a lot in the initial break in giving them that custom made fit.
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TaoistSage
Jul 27, 2011, 6:40 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Jul 25, 2011
Posts: 12
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Thank you everyone for the input and suggestions it has really helped me narrow down the shoes I am looking at. Ghisino thank you so much for all of that information. I have been trying to do research to learn about all the construction of the shoes but I did not know about the plastic sheet between the sole and intersole. Thank you for breaking down so many pairs to give me more options and information.
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TaoistSage
Jul 29, 2011, 9:49 PM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Jul 25, 2011
Posts: 12
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Thank you everyone for their suggestions, input, and information. Here is a side sort of off but on topic question which site would you recommend to buy from or should I buy from the manufacturer? I live on the edge of Iowa/Nebraska and am very very very limited in my choices of shoes from the stores as there are only 2 stores that sell a slim selection of gear and both carry the same 3 shoes (5.10 Coyote, Sportiva Mythos, Sportiva Tarantula) so I'm left with buying online
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rainman0915
Jul 29, 2011, 10:01 PM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Dec 11, 2008
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Evolve defys, thin sole, super cheap (as far as climbing shoes go,) great rubber, and perform excellently as long as your not on dime thin edges.
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