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Going to Shuteye Ridge for the first time this weekend
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randy88fj62


Oct 12, 2011, 2:52 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2011
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Going to Shuteye Ridge for the first time this weekend  (North_America: United_States: California: Western_Sierra: Shuteye_Ridge)
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Hi everyone,
I am headed to Shuteye ridge this weekend with my girlfriend. Ever since I saw the article in climbing magazine a year or two ago I've wanted to go. I would appreciate any and all pointers anyone is willing to offer. We are trad climbers that lead up to 5.9.

What's the best place to camp? Soda springs?
What are the best trad routes?
Any classic routes that are a must do?
I'm assuming the roads are open?
I have a built up landcruiser, can I get closer by wheeling in on rough roads?

I plan on camping friday night at soda springs. Anyone is welcome to join us for the weekend. I will have plenty of firewood.
-Randy


alter_nate


Oct 12, 2011, 4:56 PM
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Re: [randy88fj62] Going to Shuteye Ridge for the first time this weekend [In reply to]
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Randy,
I highly recommend also posting up your query on the following southern yosemite thread on the Supertopo forum:
http://www.supertopo.com/...d=779298&tn=2080

Maybe you've followed it, but the thread has been running for several years now, and although it's a ton to wade thru, most of the current activists and climbers in the region post quite regularly.

The east side of the ridge has the highest concentration of trad climbing opportunities, so Soda Springs is a decent central location although I'd recommend the (free but no ammenities) Grey Eagle camping area, being closer to the crags. Follow the Shuteye Pass road, always staying left, to it's end. The trail departs from the few camping spots there.

Slater's article in climbing, to which you may refer, also had good info on access and routes along the southern end of the ridge. Link:
http://www.climbing.com/...-up_call/index3.html


(This post was edited by alter_nate on Oct 12, 2011, 6:12 PM)


mikeclimbingdude


Oct 12, 2011, 9:07 PM
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Re: [randy88fj62] Going to Shuteye Ridge for the first time this weekend [In reply to]
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hi, i put up some info and topos on rockclimbing.com, shuteye area. capt.obvious on gray eagle is great 3 pitch 5.8, if you stay at soda spring c.g. your right next to chiquito dome, and this dome has the super fun 5 star 18 clip sport route, le grande, 5.10b, and the fist pitch of elegance is super fun, and to the right of elegance is a short but fun mixed 5.8, hope this is helpful, happy climbing.


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