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rgold
Nov 28, 2011, 4:39 AM
Post #26 of 35
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Well, I'm gonna get toasted for this, but Val David and Canmore are just not major destinations on the NA climbing circuit, and allotting a month to them is ridiculous. No offense Canadian friends, those areas are great for those who are already close, but when you are coming to sample the best of what the continent has to offer, I really don't think these are on the list. Of course, if you have friends and/or family in Eastern Canada you want to visit, that's a different story...
Then you're spending a week driving essentially from the East Coast to the West Coast in order to get to Squamish? Doesn't make sense to me. You'll have to go through the Canadian Rockies and you aren't going to stop to climb there? Plus, if you dropped down to the US, there would be a host of climbing areas along the way.
If you want to continue North after the Gunks, I'd suggest the Adirondacks (Spider's Web, Poko-Moonshine) and Whitehorse, Cathedral, and Cannon Mountain as having far more climbing interest. A detour through Rumney for some bolt-clipping perhaps.
The middle of the country is a problem most of us solve by driving straight through. But if you take a Northern approach, a day or two at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin, followed by a few days in the Needles in SD and Devil's Tower in Wyoming allow you to break up a long haul with some excellent and very varied climbing interludes, even if none of these places is an ultimate destination for its own sake.
Noticeably absent from the list, perhaps because of logistics or style preferences, are any alpine and/or alpine rock areas. The Tetons, Wind Rivers, Colorado Rockies, Cascades, Bugaboos, and the Sierra all have fantastic well-known classic back-country climbing at various degrees of remoteness. Spending a year here and missing all of those places seems absolutely inconceivable to me, especially if the substitutes are things like Val David and Sinks Canyon, but if you're dedicated rock jocks maybe so.
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dagibbs
Nov 28, 2011, 4:57 AM
Post #27 of 35
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While Val David is close to local for me, I have to agree with rgold, it just isn't a destination all that worth visiting. It is decent, climbing.
And, I'd second all his recommendations for north-eastern climbing, after the Gunks -- either the Adirondacks or New Hampshire, or both.
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wandering
Nov 28, 2011, 9:39 PM
Post #28 of 35
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Registered: Nov 24, 2011
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Thanks guys for lots more posts, I'm going to have to split up my responses.
Shelter
Thanks for the advice, to be honest though I'm quite happy to sleep in a tent for a year, especially if every fourth week we stay in motels. I spent much of my young adult life sleeping on a foam sleeping mat, sleeping bag and under a hoochie: http://www.kitbag.com.au/.../Auscam-Hoochie.html yes that really is just a sheet of plastic with metal eyelets. Back then they weren't even cam, just green all over. The current plan is we'll have a tarp on the bottom, a reasonable sized tent (do you guys have something like this: http://www.blackwolf.com.au/...83&category_id=2 over there? They are hugely expensive here), proper pillows and Exped Downmat 9 DLXs: http://www.trailspace.com/...exped/downmat-9-dlx/ . I will investigate the used van idea more though, whilst I've had a lot of crap sleeping on mats before, she hasn't.
I don't intend to spend any less than three days in any one loc, if there isn't at least three days worth of climbing, I don't want to go. With two people it shouldn't take less than 30 mins to set up in each place and that's worthwhile if we are there for three days. I expect in some places we'll be there for the whole three weeks without moving.
Locations
After a little editing for more time in Yosemite, let's try something different, let's say I finish at the Gunks on 19 May, we'll be in NYC visiting / sight seeing for a week.
What would you do with the three months? Keep in mind it's Summer and I want to be on Tuolumne Meadows by the end of August. We're driving, and we'll need at least two rest weeks. Squamish does sound like fun, but I do have to cross from east to west and possibly north.
01 Apr - 21 Apr Red River Gorge
29 Apr - 19 May Gunks
29 May - ??? What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks
20 Aug - 01 Sep Tuolumne Meadows
09 Sep - 06 Oct Yosemite
14 Oct - 03 Nov Utah
11 Nov - 01 Dec Red Rocks
09 Dec - 29 Dec Arizona (Open for suggestions where)
06 Jan - 02 Mar Hueco Tanks (the last month of so we can really go hard at bouldering since we'll be at the end)
Logistics and bang for time are big concerns. I can't say I know much about the back country climbing and all I know about the High Sierras are watching Peter Croft and Lisa Rands on the Hulk (sand bag anyone?). I'm not sure I'm prepared to sacrifice a few days walking in to perhaps not be able to do much and leave gear on an epic bail.
Mixed climbing, I've spent enough time on ice to know I don't really enjoy it, I could do a week of it here and there, but since I aim to be in Texas for winter to get any ice in I'd have to backtrack which kind of defeats the point.
PS these days we're neither young or heavy drinkers, if we were either (or both) we wouldn't be able to afford this ;)
PPS Mike you're supposed to be watching Chocky, not over here ;)
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happiegrrrl
Nov 28, 2011, 11:47 PM
Post #29 of 35
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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I'd head to the mountain states and spend the summer there: The Needles, South Dakota, Colorado(I haven't experience there yet, but know there is a LOT, of course) and Devil's Tower in Wyoming.
About that tent you posted - No doubt we have house-tents like that here, but I couldn't say exactly what would be best similarity. You could try http://campmor.com as a place that sells a lot of tents from various manufacturers.
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LostinMaine
Nov 29, 2011, 1:47 AM
Post #30 of 35
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Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
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wandering wrote: 01 Apr - 21 Apr Red River Gorge 29 Apr - 19 May Gunks 29 May - ??? What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks 20 Aug - 01 Sep Tuolumne Meadows 09 Sep - 06 Oct Yosemite 14 Oct - 03 Nov Utah 11 Nov - 01 Dec Red Rocks 09 Dec - 29 Dec Arizona (Open for suggestions where) 06 Jan - 02 Mar Hueco Tanks (the last month of so we can really go hard at bouldering since we'll be at the end)
Though it might seem odd for this suggestion... I would break the gunks into two 10-day sessions, with a 2-week tour through the Northeast. Building on rgold's suggestions, I'd spend 3-5 days in the 'dacks at Poke-o-Moonshine and another 3-5 days in New Hampshire at Cannon (or maybe Cathedral/Whitehorse). This will be a pleasant break from the gunks circus, but will allow you to come back to the gunks somewhat refreshed.
A slight word of caution, though. As you get into June in the 'dacks and New Hampshire, be prepared for black flies and mosquitoes. It can be hell.
As for a suggestion in Arizona, you'd have a blast at Mt. Lemmon (at least I did). I much preferred that area over Flagstaff, though you may enjoy Flagg if you're into the bouldering scene.
Edited to add: as you are heading from Red Rocks to Arizona, stop and check out the Grand Canyon. It's worth it.
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Nov 29, 2011, 1:49 AM)
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guangzhou
Nov 29, 2011, 2:44 AM
Post #31 of 35
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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LostinMaine wrote: wandering wrote: 01 Apr - 21 Apr Red River Gorge 29 Apr - 19 May Gunks 29 May - ??? What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks
What would you do? / fill in the blanks 20 Aug - 01 Sep Tuolumne Meadows 09 Sep - 06 Oct Yosemite 14 Oct - 03 Nov Utah 11 Nov - 01 Dec Red Rocks 09 Dec - 29 Dec Arizona (Open for suggestions where) 06 Jan - 02 Mar Hueco Tanks (the last month of so we can really go hard at bouldering since we'll be at the end) Though it might seem odd for this suggestion... I would break the gunks into two 10-day sessions, with a 2-week tour through the Northeast. Building on rgold's suggestions, I'd spend 3-5 days in the 'dacks at Poke-o-Moonshine and another 3-5 days in New Hampshire at Cannon (or maybe Cathedral/Whitehorse). This will be a pleasant break from the gunks circus, but will allow you to come back to the gunks somewhat refreshed. A slight word of caution, though. As you get into June in the 'dacks and New Hampshire, be prepared for black flies and mosquitoes. It can be hell. As for a suggestion in Arizona, you'd have a blast at Mt. Lemmon (at least I did). I much preferred that area over Flagstaff, though you may enjoy Flagg if you're into the bouldering scene. Edited to add: as you are heading from Red Rocks to Arizona, stop and check out the Grand Canyon. It's worth it.
I would do a week in the Gunks, preferably Monday to Friday, and use the extra time to climb in the New Hampshire area.
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sandstoned
Nov 29, 2011, 7:05 AM
Post #32 of 35
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
Posts: 127
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I don't have to imagine it, I'm doing it. And despite what you think you will be better off if you can comfortably sleep in your rig, without having to reshuffle everytime. The are many advantages but the greatest is this: rest/relocation days come most easily when the weather is poor or wet, which is also the worst time to take down a tent. The last thing you are going to want to do when leaving for your next destination on a wet nasty morning is pack away your wet tent. A wet tent is problem in itself. Where to store it? When to dry it? Where to dry it? Is it safe to leave it there to dry on this beautiful climbing day? Everyone that is in the know, knows that a van is the way to go...
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guangzhou
Nov 29, 2011, 8:44 AM
Post #33 of 35
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 3389
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sandstoned wrote: I don't have to imagine it, I'm doing it. And despite what you think you will be better off if you can comfortably sleep in your rig, without having to reshuffle everytime. The are many advantages but the greatest is this: rest/relocation days come most easily when the weather is poor or wet, which is also the worst time to take down a tent. The last thing you are going to want to do when leaving for your next destination on a wet nasty morning is pack away your wet tent. A wet tent is problem in itself. Where to store it? When to dry it? Where to dry it? Is it safe to leave it there to dry on this beautiful climbing day? Everyone that is in the know, knows that a van is the way to go...
A van, or pick-up with camper-shell makes a huge difference. You can also catch some sleep in parking lots from time to time.
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mikebee
Nov 29, 2011, 11:26 AM
Post #34 of 35
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Registered: Sep 16, 2006
Posts: 190
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In reply to: PPS Mike you're supposed to be watching Chocky, not over here ;)
I'm watching that too, but since I quit my job for a epic climbing trip, I don't have a lot to do back here at home other than climb and read about climbing, so I spread myself across continents!
I spose the big question to think about for you in that gap is what kind of climbing do you prefer?
I was super psyched on epics, so I was looking to spend the summer just gone exploring high places like Colorado, the Bugaboos and other alpine rock destinations. Hell, I even had dreams of finding someone really keen for a proper epic and check out the Cirque of the Unclimbables!
If you're more keen for shorter routes and a more "cragging" type experience, then maybe it would be worth the drive west to Squamish? It's meant to be awesome, and it puts you in a position to start heading south down the west coast as the summer weakens and the temps cool.
It's a couple of days solid driving, sure, but you're not exactly pressed for time.
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rossross
Nov 29, 2011, 9:50 PM
Post #35 of 35
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Registered: Sep 29, 2007
Posts: 40
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dagibbs wrote: While Val David is close to local for me, I have to agree with rgold, it just isn't a destination all that worth visiting. It is decent, climbing. And, I'd second all his recommendations for north-eastern climbing, after the Gunks -- either the Adirondacks or New Hampshire, or both.
+1
do new hampshire and the dacks for a month, especially if you like trad with a little bit of sport and bouldering. Lots of places here you can do 2-4 days to tick of the area classics then move on.
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