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bearbreeder
Dec 16, 2011, 8:59 PM
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hmmmm ....
Women tend to carry less upper body muscle than men. So a newbie male rockclimber with upper body strength can often muscle his way up a beginner route. He can wrap his hands around some meaty holds and haul himself up the rock face in a series of pull-up-like moves. This strategy will get the job done. It can also blow out his shoulders and “pump out” his forearms. And it won’t make him a better climber in the long run.
A conditioned climber relies on precise footwork, fluid body movement, power in the lower body for dynamic movements and a bad-ass sense of balance. A newbie with strong back muscles can skimp on these qualities for a while, but at some point he’ll be facing a rock slab with tiny rock chips for hands holds. To get up this climb, he’ll need to use those chips as balance points as he tightens his core and presses his toes into the rock. This climbing is all about flexibility and agility. Push-ups and pull-ups won’t get you there.
http://www.northcoastjournal.com/...11/12/15/climb-girl/
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 16, 2011, 9:00 PM)
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shimanilami
Dec 16, 2011, 10:32 PM
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hmmmm....
People here are always saying that Bearbreeder climbs like a girl, presumably because of the way he shrieks when when he gets more than a foot above his last bolt, or his predilection for wearing pink legwarmers and hairbands, or the way he always asks for a "bathroom buddy" when he needs to take a piss.
Please, Bearbreeder, don't try to pretend that this is what they really meant.
(This post was edited by shimanilami on Dec 16, 2011, 10:33 PM)
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bearbreeder
Dec 16, 2011, 10:44 PM
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well you obviously PMS more than a girl 
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shimanilami
Dec 16, 2011, 10:46 PM
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Touche, my friend!
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guangzhou
Dec 17, 2011, 1:47 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: hmmmm .... Women tend to carry less upper body muscle than men. So a newbie male rockclimber with upper body strength can often muscle his way up a beginner route. He can wrap his hands around some meaty holds and haul himself up the rock face in a series of pull-up-like moves. This strategy will get the job done. It can also blow out his shoulders and “pump out” his forearms. And it won’t make him a better climber in the long run.
A conditioned climber relies on precise footwork, fluid body movement, power in the lower body for dynamic movements and a bad-ass sense of balance. A newbie with strong back muscles can skimp on these qualities for a while, but at some point he’ll be facing a rock slab with tiny rock chips for hands holds. To get up this climb, he’ll need to use those chips as balance points as he tightens his core and presses his toes into the rock. This climbing is all about flexibility and agility. Push-ups and pull-ups won’t get you there. http://www.northcoastjournal.com/...11/12/15/climb-girl/
Nothing new here. Been here this for a couple decades now.
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shockabuku
Dec 17, 2011, 3:00 AM
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guangzhou wrote: Been here this for a couple decades now.
What?
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coastal_climber
Dec 17, 2011, 3:25 AM
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shockabuku wrote: guangzhou wrote: Been hearing this for a couple decades now. What? |
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guangzhou
Dec 17, 2011, 5:21 AM
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coastal_climber wrote: shockabuku wrote: guangzhou wrote: Been hearing this for a couple decades now. What?
Thanks, big big typo.
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damienclimber
Dec 19, 2011, 12:31 AM
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coastal_climber wrote: shockabuku wrote: guangzhou wrote: Been hearing this for a couple decades now. What?
I believe its from Nate Gold !
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tH1e-swiN1e
Dec 19, 2011, 4:43 PM
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But overhang is more fun.
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mr.tastycakes
Dec 19, 2011, 4:58 PM
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The article is....nice. It's encouraging to women who might be nervous about getting on the rock, and I'm all for that. But the whole "Climb like a girl" adage is dumb. Newbie women are just as bad as newbie men. They get alligator arms, paw the wall with their feet, overgrip and pull too much...all the typical stuff for a new climber.
Climb like a skilled climber. Gender doesn't have much to do with it.
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bearbreeder
Dec 19, 2011, 9:31 PM
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mr.tastycakes wrote: The article is....nice. It's encouraging to women who might be nervous about getting on the rock, and I'm all for that. But the whole "Climb like a girl" adage is dumb. Newbie women are just as bad as newbie men. They get alligator arms, paw the wall with their feet, overgrip and pull too much...all the typical stuff for a new climber. Climb like a skilled climber. Gender doesn't have much to do with it.
i somewhat disagree .... while there are many good and bad new girl and boy climbers ....
of the newish climbers (climbers who are fairly new to the gym) i take outdoors ... girls seem to have a much easier time on the less than vertical trad routes here ... they stay on their feet and quickly figure that you dont so much pull on cracks as walk up them ... the guys ive taken out tend to try to pull themselves up
two of the most amusing things ive seen in regards
- a "V6" gym climber i threw on a 10a finger crack since he wouldnt stop bragging ... he tried to power layback the crack and couldnt do the crux move ... the girl who was climbing on the route next to him (and a fairly new climber) and who had gotten up it fine through footwork said "come on you can do it i did it" ... the gym climber lowered off then, and started pouting for 30 min or so ...
- 2 strapping young men who i took to a slab area to develop footwork ... its the first time ive ever seen slab bouldering and slab dynos ... they were throwing for tiny crystals and sloppy microledges on low angle rock with all points free dynos ... to their credit they manage to haul themselves (and i mean HAUL) to the top on TR
the proper term should be climb with yr feet ... but women i find are forced to use their feet more ...
or maybe i just look at those lululemon encased legs more
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Marylandclimber
Dec 19, 2011, 11:23 PM
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But, if you climb BETTER dynamic than why not do it? I know what your saying but still, some people are good at static and some better at dynamic. So whats wrong with that?
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bearbreeder
Dec 19, 2011, 11:35 PM
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nothing as long as yr using yr feet for it ... and youre not trying to throw yrself on every move ...
use whatever move works best and most efficiently
i sometimes hear the "oh but i can get to the top pulling with my hands and throwing for stuff" ... my response is "sweet !!! ... lets put you a hard trad climb and have you place gear at the same time (on TR of course) ... or have you do that climbing 12+ pitches up the chief (seconding of course)"
for some reason no one has taken up my offer ...
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jakedatc
Dec 20, 2011, 1:00 AM
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bearbreeder wrote: nothing as long as yr using yr feet for it ... and youre not trying to throw yrself on every move ... use whatever move works best and most efficiently i sometimes hear the "oh but i can get to the top pulling with my hands and throwing for stuff" ... my response is "sweet !!! ... lets put you a hard trad climb and have you place gear at the same time (on TR of course) ... or have you do that climbing 12+ pitches up the chief (seconding of course)" for some reason no one has taken up my offer ...
I guess you missed what Dosage or Rampage when Sharma does a big trad line up your beloved Chief with all the pitches in the .12 range?
i'd love to see you get after the big roofs at RRG with your slab stylie moves..
also climb like a girl is outdated. check out Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Sasha D to some extent, etc they are all just as happy throwing for stuff and doing burly moves as they are being techy and delicate.
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spikeddem
Dec 20, 2011, 1:48 AM
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jakedatc wrote: bearbreeder wrote: nothing as long as yr using yr feet for it ... and youre not trying to throw yrself on every move ... use whatever move works best and most efficiently i sometimes hear the "oh but i can get to the top pulling with my hands and throwing for stuff" ... my response is "sweet !!! ... lets put you a hard trad climb and have you place gear at the same time (on TR of course) ... or have you do that climbing 12+ pitches up the chief (seconding of course)" for some reason no one has taken up my offer ... I guess you missed what Dosage or Rampage when Sharma does a big trad line up your beloved Chief with all the pitches in the .12 range? i'd love to see you get after the big roofs at RRG with your slab stylie moves.. also climb like a girl is outdated. check out Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Sasha D to some extent, etc they are all just as happy throwing for stuff and doing burly moves as they are being techy and delicate.
Lisa Rands too
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bearbreeder
Dec 20, 2011, 2:21 AM
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jakedatc wrote: I guess you missed what Dosage or Rampage when Sharma does a big trad line up your beloved Chief with all the pitches in the .12 range? i'd love to see you get after the big roofs at RRG with your slab stylie moves.. also climb like a girl is outdated. check out Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Sasha D to some extent, etc they are all just as happy throwing for stuff and doing burly moves as they are being techy and delicate.
are you sharma? ...perhaps you can NAME the exact route they did and the film it was in ????? ... i have all yr aforementioned movies and im not aware of a trad route up the squamish chief where all the pitches are in the 12s which sharma climbed in those movies ... but then i dont think you will mista jake
as i said there is nothing wrong with making bigger moves, if you NEED to throw, you throw ... but can you do so with every move???
we ARE talking about newer climbers here in the article ... i guess you would tell em to just haul themselves up ... 
for myself the steeper the ground the MORE important my footwork is ... and body positioning
but hey if footwork aint important to ya ... thats yr choice 
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Dec 20, 2011, 2:35 AM)
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spikeddem
Dec 20, 2011, 5:02 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: spikeddem wrote: Lisa Rands too peter croft and lisa rands do long multipitch trad ... no crazy dynos there ... her footwork looks damn good ... peters looks even bettter she looks nice and relaxed ... till the part she falls of course http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs
Note the text to which I was responding: In reply to: check out Alex Johnson, Alex Puccio, Sasha D to some extent, etc they are all just as happy throwing for stuff and doing burly moves as they are being techy and delicate.
Let me know if you still have any issues.
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