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olive
Mar 5, 2012, 2:51 AM
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Registered: May 6, 2003
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Hey all,
I am gonna spend sometime at red rocks at the end of march, doing mostly multipitch but wanna do some single pitch sport too. I am looking to see if you have any recommended routes for easier 5.12s and harder 5.11s.
Thanks a bunch
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 5, 2012, 3:24 PM
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Panty Wall at the First Pullout is a good choice. I did Wedgie (12a) and Totally clips (11a). There is also an 11d there that I didn't do.
I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted.
Josh
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lena_chita
Moderator
Mar 5, 2012, 3:32 PM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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My personal favorites (tend to be on the side of overhanging):
Geometric Progression, 5.12b at the Pier (still not sent... but I really liked it)
Under the Boardwalk, 5.11b, also at the Pier-- really fun.
Fear and Loathing 5.12a at the Gallery
Sweet Pain, 5.11d at the Sweet Pain wall (and other 5.11s at that wall are also a lot of fun, the ones I remember especially are Sister of Pain and Glitter Gulch
Rebel without Pause, 5.11a in the Black Corridor, though this one was sort of dual-feeling. on one hand, awesome moves. On the other hand, short, and spotting the unsavory and very thick *thicker than other sport routes, LOL) coat of grease, chalk and shoe rubber. And comes with the whole Black Corridor package. And yes, I listed it with "hard" 5.11s, because it a bit challenging for shorter people. But I still enjoyed it enough to give it 3 goes.
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Dip
Mar 5, 2012, 3:53 PM
Post #4 of 11
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
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blueeyedclimber wrote: I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted. Josh
So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure...
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 5, 2012, 3:58 PM
Post #5 of 11
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Dip wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted. Josh So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure...
I don't remember the rock being lesser quality. There are also much better 10's to get on, but if you are going looking primarily for sport climbing, then UG gives a little more adventure than first or second pullout.
Josh
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Dip
Mar 5, 2012, 4:00 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Jun 16, 2009
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Dip wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: I highly recommend hiking in to do Unimpeachable Groping. It's easier than you are looking for (mid 10) but the multiple pitches and quality rock make it worth it. It's entirely bolted. Josh So you liked UG a lot? I've heard mixed reviews about it. Most who didn't like it refrenced less than desireable rock quality as their reason. I'm heading out this coming Saturday for 8 days. Dream of Wild Turkeys and Epinephrine are tops on the list (and maybe another shot at L29), but that only covers a few of the days there. A week ago i would've told you i was definitely going to get on UG, now i'm not so sure... I don't remember the rock being lesser quality. There are also much better 10's to get on, but if you are going looking primarily for sport climbing, then UG gives a little more adventure than first or second pullout. Josh
Gotcha. I think based on that and other responses, i'll keep it as a strong "maybe."
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olive
Mar 5, 2012, 5:18 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: May 6, 2003
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Thanks for the suggestions. I did UG, last december. I really enjoyed it - more than I enjoyed Prince of Darkness. The movement was more varied, and I thought the pitches were fun. (But then, it was a good multipitch choice for a short, cold winter day, as it is super low commitment, and quick.)
Lena, yep, I try to stay away from Black Corridor as much as possible :)) Thanks for the suggestions. Out of those I have only done Giltter Gulch and Sweet Pain. I am kinda on the weaker side for overhanging things (having lived away from RRG for so long :)) but I'll check out the others.
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jupiter
Mar 5, 2012, 7:33 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Feb 26, 2007
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Here are some of my favorite sport climbs in that range
Janes Wall: Idiot's Rule 11d, Pigs in Zen 12b, Naked and Disfigured 12b
Cannabis Crag: Synapse Collapse 11d, KGB 12a, Cannabis 12a
Ethics Wall: Rafter Man (soft) 12a, The Laying on of Hands 11d
Wake Up Wall: Rise and Whine 12a, Pain Check 12a, Native Son 11c
Sonic Youth Wall: GBH 11c/d. Black Flag 11c/d,
Agent Orange 12b, Sonic Youth 11d, Everybody's Slave 11d, Loki 12a
These are just off of the top of my head, there are many others that are good in that range, but this should get you started.
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bigo
Mar 5, 2012, 7:42 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Mar 11, 2002
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There are lot's of climbs in that range. Here are the walls that I like to hit.
Gallery - Sunny, cool location, social (crowded)
Wall of Confusion - right next to Gallery
Stratocaster Area - Near Gallery
Sweet Pain - more shade also crowded
Sunny and Steep - Lots of 11+ to 12s
Cannibal Crag - Small with a few really good climbs (best is the 12c)
Jane's Wall - little out of the way with several good climbs
The Pier - Shady with multiple 11's and 12's
Have fun - remember to head to the limestone if it rains...
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crackmeup
Mar 6, 2012, 1:03 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Panty Wall at the First Pullout is a good choice. I did Wedgie (12a) and Totally clips (11a). There is also an 11d there that I didn't do.
The 11d is Viagra Falls, not bad but nothing spectacular.
Like others said, Sweet Pain is very enjoyable (I think it's 11d as well).
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