if i were to tie a loop in a bite of webbing with an overhand knot would the overhand knot be safe? say i had a top rope anchor setup and i have a cam set about 10 feet back from the master point, can i use that tied loop at one end of the webbing to clip into the biner on the cam? then use another loop at the other end tied with an overhand knot to clip into the master point (tensioned and equal with the other anchors of course)?
i dont regularly have a cam 10' back, but some times it's how it has be, or i am just adding in redundancy.

also, would a figure 8 be better? i know it doesnt look very pretty with webbing.

I read the description as tying a loop in each end, with a single strand of webbing running between the two loops (like a dogbone); not as a continuous loop.

I read the description as tying a loop in each end, with a single strand of webbing running between the two loops (like a dogbone); not as a continuous loop.

+1, I would never tie a water knot at the end of a single strand of webbing (sungam appears to be thinking of a continuous loop rather than a loop at the end of a stand). A flat overhand at end of a single strand cannot roll like an EDK in a continuous loop. Leave appropriate tail and tie a clean knot; you should never have a problem.

+1, I would never tie a water knot at the end of a single strand of webbing

I'm having trouble visualizing this...how would you tie a water knot with one end of webbing? Doesn't a water knot by definition need two ends?

I envisioned a newbie tying a loose overhand a couple feet back and then using the end to complete a "water knot" so that the ends are not pointing in the same direction like the EDK.... just noting that this is not what sungam meant and never a good idea

Sorry, I still don't get it. If you re-thread a overhand knot with the same end of webbing, I think there is only one way you can do it and still get a loop in the webbing, right? It either ends up essentially looking like an overhand on a bight slash sort-of-an EDK or you don't get a loop at all, right? Maybe I just can't visualize it.

picture is worth a thousand words....
OP: bueno
[image]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a2dd32b3127cceffcfd937262400000030O10AaNnLRmzcsmIPbz4K/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/[/image]

misreading of sungam's original post: no bueno
[image]http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a2dd32b3127cceffcf68cb661800000030O10AaNnLRmzcsmIPbz4K/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/[/image]

A bowline on the bight is stronger and you can undo it later.

A bowline on the bight is stronger and you can undo it later.

Where can one find date about this?

Note that there are 4 possible *knots* here : the one
shown in the photo below for the overhand eyeknot,
same one but with the tail loaded, instead
--the thought here would be that the tail (as shown)
would have protective padding of its twin part against
the compression of the eye-legs turn--,
and similar variation in the bowline on a bight
(where there is less compressing against the loaded part,
so having it *exterior* to its twin might be better).
!?

Thanks,
*kN*

Well, if anyone can understand that post they have my admiration!

When I test a piece of tape with a bowline on a bight at one end and an overhand on a bight on the other the overhand breaks first. That I can still easily untie the bowline afterwards is nice as well.

Jim

Why a []ibowline on a bight not a normal bowline? Because the OP specifically asked "if i were to tie a loop in a bite(sic) of webbing".
It doesn´t need a stopper knot and is probably stronger as well.

As to which strand is loaded, which way it is dressed etc:- This may be of some theoretical interest to knot freaks (and is always included in those climbing instructional books one can buy)

BUT halfway up a mountain , in the dark and a snowstorm is practically of little importance. A knot has to perform in any condition, crossed and twisted strands, slack, kinked and all the rest and one should use these strength values to cover the worst-case scenario which is a guiding principle of climbing safety.