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sapiecha
Apr 20, 2012, 4:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2010
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Hey!
Just wondering if anyone has done some easy multipitch routes at Seneca Rocks? We are planning on going down there for a weekend to do a couple routes. This will be our first time in that area, and are looking to do Gunsight South, and Ecstasy, and whatever else we can cram in to two days.
Just wondering if its easy to follow the guidebook? Since we only have to days, we were concerned about finding routes, paths, rap stations, etc., since we don't want to waste much time. I know with some areas, you walk up and find routes, and beta very easily. And other areas you have to search for hours, and easily find yourself off route.
Any help, beta, or info would help a lot!
Thanks,
-M.
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Dip
Apr 20, 2012, 5:11 PM
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sapiecha wrote: Hey! Just wondering if anyone has done some easy multipitch routes at Seneca Rocks? We are planning on going down there for a weekend to do a couple routes. This will be our first time in that area, and are looking to do Gunsight South, and Ecstasy, and whatever else we can cram in to two days. Just wondering if its easy to follow the guidebook? Since we only have to days, we were concerned about finding routes, paths, rap stations, etc., since we don't want to waste much time. I know with some areas, you walk up and find routes, and beta very easily. And other areas you have to search for hours, and easily find yourself off route. Any help, beta, or info would help a lot! Thanks, -M.
I didn't find it all that easy to find the routes i was looking for, but then again i'm retarded when it comes to translating guidebooks into real life, so take that for what it's worth. Gunsight to South Peak is friggin amazing, you can throw the grade right out the window on that one, it simply doesn't matter. In regards to your second selection, do you mean Ecstasy or Ecstasy Jr? I ask because there are certainly better 5.7's there than Ecstasy. Not that it's anywhere close to bad, just that Seneca has some really, really good climbs at that grade.
If you're looking for other climbs in the realm of Gunsight and Ecstasy jr, check out Candy Corner (5.5).
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sapiecha
Apr 20, 2012, 5:16 PM
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Great to know! I'll def. check that route out. I also suffer from retarded route finding, but hoping for a little luck. Gunsight, from what I hear, is pretty sweet for an easy route, and is definitely the main reason for the trip.
Thanks for your input!
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mheyman
Apr 20, 2012, 5:23 PM
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The guide book is accurate, but not easy to follow (but at least easier to read than the old version) Study it very thoroughly. Many routes go to a ledge or from a ledge and you need to go from to one to the next to get to the top.
Look for on-line info about the trail(s) or talk to people there, especially to routes on the west side.
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jp_sucks
Apr 20, 2012, 7:33 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2006
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The good news is that it's a busy place so if you're not sure where you are or where a route is, just ask someone.
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sapiecha
Apr 20, 2012, 8:28 PM
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Good to know! Thanks!
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naitch
Apr 20, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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I agree with the comment of asking people there where routes start. Some routes can wander and be a challenge for someone new to the area.
Gun Sight to South Peak Direct - better than the regular one and a grade harder. Stellar.
Re Ecstasy, there are many other good .7s as stated but there is a reason why it has a star and reputation. However, it's also one that usually you have to be the first one on the crag in the morning because it gets busy.
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sapiecha
Apr 21, 2012, 12:29 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2010
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Awesome thanks, I didn't realize that it gets so busy there. We were at new river 2 weeks ago and had a few walls all to ourselves at times, and this was on the long weekend! As oppose to the red river crowds..
I guess Seneca is a pretty unique place that brings on some crowds.
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lofstromc
Apr 21, 2012, 1:07 AM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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My intro to Seneca was climbing Ecstacy Jr. and then walking from there past Humphreys Head to get to the Broadway Ledge and then walking to Gunsight to South Summit. It was memorable and I'd recommend that.
(This post was edited by lofstromc on Apr 21, 2012, 1:09 AM)
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