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sport climbing info for western Europe
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stephenreynoso


Apr 26, 2012, 7:05 AM
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sport climbing info for western Europe
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I would like to climb anywhere in Europe. I have never been. I usually climb sport routes, and climb alone. So I would like to know what areas might or would be easy to get to , to set up top rope . I am just now planning. So any helpful "beta" would be appreciated. I would prefer to stay in the western part of Europe, but not necessary . Thanks.....Stephen


JimTitt


Apr 26, 2012, 6:41 PM
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Re: [stephenreynoso] sport climbing info for western Europe [In reply to]
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Western Europe covers a lot of countries (exactly how many depends on whose definition you use). And possibly millions of sport routes scattered over thousands of areas so you´ve got to narrow things down a bit. Start with preferred native language, time of year, type of rock, difficulty, preferred beer or wine, blonde or dark haired girls, by the sea or inland, food and so on. The time of year is probably the most important though your priorities may be different!
In general the further north you go the worse the climbing so unless you have some other reason to go there avoid anything above about the level of Paris (France not Texas).


qwert


Apr 28, 2012, 8:02 AM
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Re: [JimTitt] sport climbing info for western Europe [In reply to]
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JimTitt wrote:
In general the further north you go the worse the climbing so unless you have some other reason to go there avoid anything above about the level of Paris (France not Texas).
Unless you go even further north, and add Sweden and Norway to western europe. Apart from the fact that beer costs about as much as liquid gold, you can find some nice climbing spots there.

However the main Problem i see is the following:
You said that you climb alone, and thus need stuff where you can set up topropes from above.

That requirement rules out at least 95% of germany, and if i remember correctly also quite a lot of france, where you are not allowed to access the cliff tops due to environmental reasons - protection of rare xerotherm species that only grow/life on cliff tops!

qwert


hanssolmssen


May 2, 2012, 4:14 PM
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Re: [stephenreynoso] sport climbing info for western Europe [In reply to]
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Hi Stephen. I am a guide living in Verbier Switzerland, about an hour from Chamonix. This area has tons of sports climbing plus is in the heart of great alpine climbing. There are no restrictions to gaining access to the top of the cliffs here or in France or Italy. There are many guide books of these areas. http://www.camptocamp.org/ has lots of route descriptions too. By this time of year, most crags are in shape. As the weather warms and stabilizes, many of the alpine routes will be coming into shape over the next 2-3 weeks. Have a great trip!


herites


May 5, 2012, 11:13 PM
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Re: [stephenreynoso] sport climbing info for western Europe [In reply to]
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If you include Hungary, then you have a decent spot. Top of the routes are usually accesible and the climbs are interesting and varied and crags are easy to access, hardly any approach at all. The downsides are that a: usually short routes (15-25m) b: popular crags are crowded, small and greasy c: routes below VI-VII are poorly bolted, runouts without clean falls.


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