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redlude97
Jul 10, 2012, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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One of my climbing partners is currently using an XS Mammut Vision climbing harness that was the smallest women's harness we could find at the time, it went down to 23.5". When completely tightened it still is a little loose on her on the waist and the legs, she's like 5' 100lbs or so. Things have been fine with the harness until this weekend when she took a slightly penduluming lead fall. In the process her harness twisted and pulled to the side quite a bit(the tie in points ended up by her hip) and it caused her to flip due to the weight shift.
We've been trying to find a good solution for her, but there doesn't seem to be any women's harnesses that are any smaller than that. I've posted a picture below showing the fit of her current harness. The one option we are considering is a kid's harness such as the BD wiz kid http://www.rei.com/...kid-climbing-harness but it only has 2 gear loops and no haul loop. We will sometimes use the haul loop to anchor her down so it is nice to have, and the missing gear loops are a downer due to her needing them when following on trad routes and such since racking on a sling hurts her shoulder. Does anyone have any good suggestions for a harness that would work well for her?
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sbaclimber
Jul 11, 2012, 7:44 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I didn't honestly expect to find a harness this small with what you are looking for (4 gear + haul loops), but here you go:
http://www.stubai-bergsport.com/...bnRyYWc9MTc1MTc.html
....only problem is, it might not be directly available in the states. 
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 11, 2012, 8:08 AM)
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smallclimber
Jul 14, 2012, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2003
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I am 4'11 and 95 lb, wear 00 pants in gap/banana republic and not really any hips. I have a Mammut focus xs which was discontinued several years ago, the harness you mention might be its replacement. In summer with only a t-shirt on it does have to be cinched right in as far as it can go, but I think it would stay put, though I have never gone upside down. I think Mammut are pretty small in general, so not sure if you will have any better option. Although your friend might be within the weight for a childs harness they might not be designed to last as long. Children will typically grown out of a hatness within a couple of years whereas an adult would want several years wear out of a harness.
I also have a black diamond bod for ice and moutaineering. If i wear that for rock climbing with summer clothes it also has to be cinched right in and even then i think its a bit loose. And the xs only has one gear loop a side.
Try a few more donuts?
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drivel
Sep 6, 2012, 4:23 PM
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redlude97 wrote: ...We will sometimes use the haul loop to anchor her down so it is nice to have, ...
If you must anchor someone, use the belay loop, not the haul loop. Have you ever had a heavy person fall while you were anchored with the haul loop? The belayer gets their guts squeezed out while the waist belt of the harness flattens between the two points of tension. It is super uncomfortable to the point of painful, depending on the fall.
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drivel
Sep 6, 2012, 4:29 PM
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drivel wrote: redlude97 wrote: ...We will sometimes use the haul loop to anchor her down so it is nice to have, ... If you must anchor someone, use the belay loop, not the haul loop. Have you ever had a heavy person fall while you were anchored with the haul loop? The belayer gets their guts squeezed out while the waist belt of the harness flattens between the two points of tension. It is super uncomfortable to the point of painful, depending on the fall.
I am 5'2, weigh just over 100lbs, wear an xs Misty harness that fits great and has 4 gear loops. It's not all lightweight and sexy, but it's a good harness.
And I lead belay folks outside up to about 180lbs, no problem, without an anchor unless there's a very specific reason (like a ledge under a crux). Folks heavier than ~180lbs, I generally just decline to lead belay them unless there's nobody else about. It takes a climber more like 250 to pull me off my feet for a toprope.
I mean... a ground anchor is essentially the same as a multi-pitch anchor. And you'd never do that through the haul loop. You'd use the belay loop, natch.
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lywang
Jan 26, 2013, 8:14 AM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2011
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i am 5'1, and i go down to 95 pounds during the summer climbing season, i can wear kids size 12 pants. I use a black diamond primrose xs. best fitting one i've found. my old harness was a petzl selena, but i found it to be looser, hence the changeover to the BD. I have found Mammut harnesses to be too big, and I have never found the size charts to actually reflect how small the waist is. i do not have a 23 inch waist, but that hasn't stoppe the harnesses from being too large.
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happiegrrrl
Jan 26, 2013, 10:37 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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Having the harness at the hips during that fall must have been scary.
Until she can find a better fit, perhaps rig up an additional chestpiece from slings.
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