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Joho
Jul 24, 2012, 6:05 PM
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hey guys,
I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors.
Thanks for your help,
Johannes
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njrox
Jul 24, 2012, 6:08 PM
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Registered: May 12, 2011
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My Prusik cord for rappelling is 5mm.
My Cordelette for anchor building is 7mm.
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Kartessa
Jul 24, 2012, 6:11 PM
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Joho wrote: hey guys, I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors. Thanks for your help, Johannes
Ditto
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majid_sabet
Jul 24, 2012, 6:32 PM
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Joho wrote: hey guys, I have a question, I just got into multi-pitch climbing and I would like to hear your recommendations on what diameter size of a prusik chord I should use when equalizing anchors. Thanks for your help, Johannes
Generally, a prusik diameter needs to be between 50% to 70% of the diameter of the rope you are going to use it on and 70% is the most common way to go.
So on 11 mm rope, you use 7 or 8 mm
on smaller rope, 9-11 mm then 6 or 7mm
you could use 6mm on any size rope but they are not rated for major shock load or drop test.
you want your anchor to be as static as possible and in event of a shock load , a three loop prusiks can slip 6-14 inches around 5-8kn. The extra slippage at the anchor (even few inches)can produce several feet of drop and with more rope in service (rope between belayer and leader ) this can become very dangerous .
For equalizing anchor legs which may take major shock load, prusiks are not recommended.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 24, 2012, 6:40 PM)
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Joho
Jul 24, 2012, 6:43 PM
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Registered: Feb 20, 2012
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what's the difference between a prusik and a chordelette ?
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njrox
Jul 24, 2012, 6:59 PM
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Joho wrote: what's the difference between a prusik and a chordelette ?
when you say prusik, I see this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik
since you were talking about "equalizing an anchor" I assumed you meant to say cordelette
A cordelette is a long length of thin rope that is used to equalize the load on two to four anchors on belay ledges, on multi-pitch climbs, or atop cliffs for an array of top-rope anchors. A cordelette is simply a 16- to 24-foot length of high-strength 6mm to 7mm perlon rope whose ends are tied together with a double fisherman’s knot. - quick web search definition
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jdensign5
Jul 24, 2012, 11:02 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2012
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A prussik is a knot used to back up a rappell, a cordelette is a length of cord used to make an anchor.
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