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csiebsen
Aug 15, 2012, 6:03 PM
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marc801 wrote: csiebsen wrote: Also, as a rule I set up with 3 anchors, call me paranoid but that's how I learned to set up and am most comfortable with it. For this setup I'd add a third anchor into or around the rock somewhere. You do realize that there are literally tens of thousands of anchors just in the US that consist of no more than two bolts, yes? Anchor (probably the original) on top of Coonyard Pinnacle, Glacier Point Apron, Yosemite prior to replacement and used for over 40 years: [image]http://s139.photobucket.com/albums/q317/clintcummins/08811roger/IMG_3859.jpg[/image]
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jdensign5
Aug 15, 2012, 6:20 PM
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In reply to: Thank you everyone, and again, I apologize for my lack of experience. But here is the anchor I'll be tying into:
This isn't an anchor, these are bolts
In reply to: And here is the webbing with the carabiners (lacking one)
I would put a 180 degree twist in the bottom of that webbing (in only one of the strands) and put the 2 biners holding the rope through the twist in case something happens to one side of the webbing or bolts. That way the rope doesn't just slide off the anchor if one side gets cut or a bolt breaks or something.
(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 16, 2012, 5:55 PM)
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csiebsen
Aug 15, 2012, 6:56 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: cpowers15 wrote: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae102/cpowers15/IMG_20120814_204955.jpg[/IMG] I don't see much waste in that since the way you've got it made up it is a redundant anchor. The overhand on a bight knots in the ends are safe to use that way (can't roll). Dress, set and leave about six inches of tail in the knot and your golden. Pad any edges if needed. They might be a little tough to untie but I've always managed to get them undone after a morning of TR soloing on them. If your route wanders you could reduce the back and forth movement by pulling the two legs together in the direction of your climb and tying another knot just above the power point. Also, add an overhand knot in the webbing just above the Carabiner that your rope goes through. As is you have a single point of failure if one of the anchors fails.
(This post was edited by csiebsen on Aug 15, 2012, 7:00 PM)
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csiebsen
Aug 16, 2012, 1:43 PM
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csiebsen wrote: moose_droppings wrote: cpowers15 wrote: [IMG]http://i962.photobucket.com/albums/ae102/cpowers15/IMG_20120814_204955.jpg[/IMG] I don't see much waste in that since the way you've got it made up it is a redundant anchor. The overhand on a bight knots in the ends are safe to use that way (can't roll). Dress, set and leave about six inches of tail in the knot and your golden. Pad any edges if needed. They might be a little tough to untie but I've always managed to get them undone after a morning of TR soloing on them. If your route wanders you could reduce the back and forth movement by pulling the two legs together in the direction of your climb and tying another knot just above the power point. Also, add an overhand knot in the webbing just above the Carabiner that your rope goes through. As is you have a single point of failure if one of the anchors fails. After a second look I see you have the webbing in 2 separate slings so no need for the extra overhand knot. My parting suggestion is that you not rely solely on internet forums for learnng to setup a top rope. You'll be far better served to take a course or learn from someone who is experienced. I think the peace of mind of making that investment is well worth it. "Learning on the job" isn't your best option. Happy climbing!
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jdensign5
Aug 16, 2012, 6:00 PM
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csiebsen wrote: Also, as a rule I set up with 3 anchors, call me paranoid but that's how I learned to set up and am most comfortable with it. For this setup I'd add a third anchor into or around the rock somewhere.
For a multipitch trad route I can't think of a situation where I wouldn't use at least 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull for my anchors, but when I set my anchors on 2 bolts that are bomber, that is enough. Unless I need a point of pro below me to hold an upward pull, then I'll add a 3rd point of protection.
(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 17, 2012, 9:31 PM)
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marc801
Aug 16, 2012, 6:35 PM
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For fuck's sake will you people please learn how to quote.
I didn't write any of that crap that is quoted as me.
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surfstar
Aug 16, 2012, 6:42 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull
No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example.
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dindolino32
Aug 17, 2012, 6:58 PM
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please read a book first. Then climb with someone who knows what they are doing.
http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Mastering-Mountaineers-Outdoor/dp/0898867436
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jdensign5
Aug 17, 2012, 9:25 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull
"surfstar wrote: No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example.
You are right, I meant I use at least 3 points of protection in a trad anchor and one for an upward pull. Sometimes I use more, but not less.
(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 19, 2012, 10:31 AM)
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jdensign5
Aug 17, 2012, 9:33 PM
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marc801 wrote: For fuck's sake will you people please learn how to quote. I didn't write any of that crap that is quoted as me.
I take it by your language you are not mormon?
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csproul
Aug 17, 2012, 9:38 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull "surfstar wrote: No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example. You are right, I meant I use at least 3 points of protection in a trad anchor and one for a down pull. Sometimes I use more, but not less.
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surfstar
Aug 17, 2012, 9:57 PM
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csproul wrote: jdensign5 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull "surfstar wrote: No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example. You are right, I meant I use at least 3 points of protection in a trad anchor and one for a down pull. Sometimes I use more, but not less. try again
but when I do, I prefer dos equis
(get it, you know, let two bolts 'x x')
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marc801
Aug 17, 2012, 10:49 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: I take it by your language you are not mormon?
Oh, must be that stereotype that everyone who lives in Utah must be LDS.
We have just under 3M people in the state. Statewide, roughly 78% self identify as Mormon, but that doesn't take into account those who are inactive (aka Jack Mormons).
About a million live in the Salt Lake Valley, which is basically Salt Lake County. The county is currently about 49% Mormon.
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cpowers15
Aug 18, 2012, 2:00 PM
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csiebsen wrote: After a second look I see you have the webbing in 2 separate slings so no need for the extra overhand knot. My parting suggestion is that you not rely solely on internet forums for learnng to setup a top rope. You'll be far better served to take a course or learn from someone who is experienced. I think the peace of mind of making that investment is well worth it. "Learning on the job" isn't your best option. Happy climbing!
For sure, and thank you. The local rock gym has a good staff we've been talking to and some of the guys that frequent it always have good advice.
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jdensign5
Aug 18, 2012, 8:30 PM
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marc801 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: I take it by your language you are not mormon? Why would you ever think I was mormon? Oh, must be that stereotype that everyone who lives in Utah must be LDS. We have just under 3M people in the state. Statewide, roughly 78% self identify as Mormon, but that doesn't take into account those who are inactive (aka Jack Mormons). About a million live in the Salt Lake Valley, which is basically Salt Lake County. The county is currently about 49% Mormon.
Yup, that gives you a 50% chance of being LDS, by your post I guess you mean you are a jack mormon. I am mormon, that is why I asked. Sorry if I offended you.
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jdensign5
Aug 18, 2012, 8:31 PM
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csproul wrote: jdensign5 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull "surfstar wrote: No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example. You are right, I meant I use at least 3 points of protection in a trad anchor and one for a upward pull. Sometimes I use more, but not less. try again
No thanks, I am quite happy with the revision and stand by it.
(This post was edited by jdensign5 on Aug 19, 2012, 10:22 AM)
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csproul
Aug 18, 2012, 9:14 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: csproul wrote: jdensign5 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: For a multipitch trad route I always use 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull "surfstar wrote: No such thing as "always" in climbing, trad anchors being one example. You are right, I meant I use at least 3 points of protection in a trad anchor and one for a down pull. Sometimes I use more, but not less. try again No thanks, I am quite happy with the revision and stand by it.
And there are many situations when fewer than 3 pieces are more than adequate. A big tree or slung block are common situations that come to mind.
(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 18, 2012, 9:41 PM)
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jdensign5
Aug 19, 2012, 10:37 AM
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I have a headache from all the nitpicking around here. Everyone knows I meant UPWARD PULL, I wrote it that way the first time, then accidently wrote downward when responding to the other nitpickety guy about the word ALWAYS in my post.
Yes, there are instances when you can use less than 3 points, Like when I wrote I use 2 for bolt hangers, the same goes for natural pro as well, but in that particular conversation we were talking about placing pro (cams,nuts,etc) in the rock.
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bearbreeder
Aug 19, 2012, 1:04 PM
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you have a belay that takes somewhat wide gear ... youre going to haul up more large cams on a large multi for tjat extra piece?
basically you are saying that you dont trust a #3 and #4 camalot for a belay in good rock ... how about a #5 ....
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marc801
Aug 19, 2012, 3:33 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: I have a headache from all the nitpicking around here. Everyone knows I meant UPWARD PULL, I wrote it that way the first time, then accidently wrote downward when responding to the other nitpickety guy about the word ALWAYS in my post.
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marc801
Aug 19, 2012, 3:56 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: marc801 wrote: jdensign5 wrote: I take it by your language you are not mormon? Why would you ever think I was mormon? Oh, must be that stereotype that everyone who lives in Utah must be LDS. We have just under 3M people in the state. Statewide, roughly 78% self identify as Mormon, but that doesn't take into account those who are inactive (aka Jack Mormons). About a million live in the Salt Lake Valley, which is basically Salt Lake County. The county is currently about 49% Mormon. Yup, that gives you a 50% chance of being LDS, by your post I guess you mean you are a jack mormon. I am mormon, that is why I asked. Sorry if I offended you.
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blueeyedclimber
Aug 19, 2012, 7:18 PM
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drector wrote: How did the sewn slings get through the bolt hangers in that ADT picture? I think there is something going on there that I can't see. Dave
The whole sling is fed through the hangers. 2 of them, and then clipped at the power point.
Josh
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Kartessa
Aug 20, 2012, 6:20 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: marc801 wrote: For fuck's sake will you people please learn how to quote. I didn't write any of that crap that is quoted as me. I take it by your language you are not mormon?
ENIGMA!!!!
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Rudmin
Aug 31, 2012, 7:57 PM
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jdensign5 wrote: csiebsen wrote: Also, as a rule I set up with 3 anchors, call me paranoid but that's how I learned to set up and am most comfortable with it. For this setup I'd add a third anchor into or around the rock somewhere. For a multipitch trad route I can't think of a situation where I wouldn't use at least 3 points of protection in the rock for a downward pull and one point of protection for an upward pull for my anchors, but when I set my anchors on 2 bolts that are bomber, that is enough. Unless I need a point of pro below me to hold an upward pull, then I'll add a 3rd point of protection.
Really? You would never ever ever just snug a big knotted loop over a big effing boulder and call it good? You sir are missing out on some bomber, quick, gearless anchoring opportunities.
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