|
|
|
|
Phoenixdown
Aug 22, 2012, 10:06 AM
Post #1 of 11
(4611 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Ok, so i started bouldering just a few weeks ago after lurking here for a month and now finally getting the balls to post...
There is only 1 rock wall within 3 hours of my town, since im helplessly new and stupid i have no clue if what the guys who are running this place have in the way of climbing knowledge. I asked how much climbing they had done, but got an ambiguous response. I guess my question for you guys is what questions should i ask my instructor/babysitter to judge their qualifications to teach or explain to me proper technique? I'm not having much luck finding a partner who is down(or has any experience) either. I've watched tons of video and read articles, but its totally different when i'm actually doing it not quite sure if my feet grip or body are positioned correctly. I really dont want to learn wrong and be forced to break shitty habits down the road.
I think the first thing that tipped me off to this place was as a first timer not being explained how to fall, or even how shoes should fit.
Me? Im a 5ft tall female roller derby player, i have balance and leg strength ok, but holy crap my fingertips are destroyed right now. Also advice(besides suck it up and foster a few awesome callouses) on how to prevent the finger tip rawness from indoor n00by pants bouldering.
(This post was edited by Phoenixdown on Aug 22, 2012, 11:01 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
ninepointeight
Aug 22, 2012, 11:08 AM
Post #2 of 11
(4574 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2012
Posts: 102
|
Spend a day with an AMGA certified guide climbing outside with a bud or two. You'll learn the right stuff and appreciate climbing more. That said, there will be differences between what people teach you. Read through, "Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills" by Craig Leubben and learn to evaluate safety for yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
Phoenixdown
Aug 22, 2012, 11:25 AM
Post #3 of 11
(4567 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Thanks for the book info, im def going to have a guide my first few goes and then some outdoors. I really want to feel comfortable indoors prior to outdoors even with a guide. Do indoor places need a certification or anything, or can any random clownshoe with a hex key and a drill start a rock gym?
Anything else besides that certification i need to look for?
Like i said, i think im doing ok so far, just paranoid about making sure im doinitrite and safety isnt overlooked.
|
|
|
|
|
ninepointeight
Aug 22, 2012, 12:03 PM
Post #4 of 11
(4547 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2012
Posts: 102
|
I'm not aware of any gym certifications. Most gyms have a climber or two on staff and a bunch of high school kids that don't climb. Te gym will not let an outside guide teach there. Honestly, belaying for top rope isn't rocket science. I would not be overly concerned about learning in a gym. You probably won't die.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Aug 22, 2012, 1:37 PM
Post #5 of 11
(4501 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Just accept it as a process, you will make mistakes.
The gym will give you a good base for the physicality of climbing, but its no substitute for climbing on rock. You dont need to be at a certain level before going outside either, back in the day (way way way back) people used to climb on rocks. They would even learn on rocks. I know it sounds crazy, but all the gym is going to do is teach you how to climb in a gym.
|
|
|
|
|
Phoenixdown
Aug 22, 2012, 7:53 PM
Post #6 of 11
(4394 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Thanks for the info everyone.
i live in the middle of nowhere with no rock formations for hours either direction. Gym is basically my only option until i have a long weekend and i hate the thought of burning up gas for a climb that i couldnt handle. :( I got a trip to Seattle planned for November, so hopefully by then i'll be a better judge of right way and wrong way. Safe/Unsafe conditions etc...
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Aug 22, 2012, 8:11 PM
Post #7 of 11
(4383 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Phoenixdown wrote: Thanks for the info everyone. i live in the middle of nowhere with no rock formations for hours either direction. Gym is basically my only option until i have a long weekend and i hate the thought of burning up gas for a climb that i couldnt handle. :( I got a trip to Seattle planned for November, so hopefully by then i'll be a better judge of right way and wrong way. Safe/Unsafe conditions etc...
Sorry hun, but without getting out and getting a little mileage under someone's wing, you're not going to have much a clue about safe/unsafe conditions aside from identifying a bad knot your keeping your foot out of the rope.
|
|
|
|
|
Phoenixdown
Aug 22, 2012, 8:24 PM
Post #8 of 11
(4371 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Good to know, thanks! Found a few qualified guides in state still far away, but it makes sense to sack up suck itit ip and just go do it instead of just gym.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Aug 22, 2012, 8:25 PM
Post #9 of 11
(4368 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
You could also be social at the gym and see where the other kids go to play... maybe tag along too
|
|
|
|
|
Phoenixdown
Aug 22, 2012, 8:30 PM
Post #10 of 11
(4356 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2012
Posts: 6
|
Yeah, this place just opened, so the only other kids are 2 of my ex military friends a few of the chicks i play roller derby with... and they tend to be more down for beer time afterwards.
I'm thinking enchanted rock would be a good weekend trip for rookies.
|
|
|
|
|
NikNak
Aug 22, 2012, 9:13 PM
Post #11 of 11
(4336 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2012
Posts: 38
|
Hi Phoenixdown,
I too am a noobie, been climbing for just under 4 months now. So please don't take this as golden advice I'm WAY to nubbie and ignorant and naive to be giving out rock solid advice
But this is the process I go through in my learning...
Watch others in the gym, watch how they tackle problems. A person can give you beta without them even knowing, just by you watching them. Try what they do on the wall but if it doesn't work for you don't be disheartened, they might be taller smaller stronger more flexible, have a bigger reavh or time honed technique. If something doesn't work see if you can adapt it to suit you. You will see in competitions online that each pro tackles a problem differently, because we are all built differently, there is no absolute way of doing anything.
With safety equipment, really listen to what the person teaches you. True you might not be sure of thbeir qualifications but lets say for example they teach you a knot. Take a shoelace with you and make the knot in your shoelace. Get home, and google or wiki the knots name. Does it look right? Is the process described online the same as you were taught? If you notice inconsistencies between what you have been taught and what you can find online then something is amiss...
Watch lots of videos on youtube! See how the pro's do it, learn from the best. This is the glorious age of the internet, sucks the rocks are so far away from you, but the knowledge is accessible from the comfort of your own home.
Like i said though im still quite the noob, but doing these things is (i feel) helping me to progress and more importantly, progress safely. I just went up a grade tonight and I am literally buzzing :D But there will be people here a hell of a lot more experienced than me so definetly listen to them!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
