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philipzahnd
Nov 12, 2012, 1:44 AM
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I almost exclusively use a sliding x with three points of pro as my anchor. I don't like putting a double figure eight in the end. Alpine anchors need to be quickly set up and taken down. I don't usually use a backup (one reason is because you lose a sling or two), which is breaks the rule of betting everything on one piece of equipment (the cordelette). When I do use a backup, it is usually a sliding x my two strongest pieces of pro. What is your go-to anchor backup?
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billl7
Nov 12, 2012, 4:29 AM
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philipzahnd wrote: I almost exclusively use a sliding x with three points of pro as my anchor. I don't like putting a double figure eight in the end. Alpine anchors need to be quickly set up and taken down. I don't usually use a backup (one reason is because you lose a sling or two), which is breaks the rule of betting everything on one piece of equipment (the cordelette). When I do use a backup, it is usually a sliding x my two strongest pieces of pro. What is your go-to anchor backup?
Not sure what you mean by anchor backup? For me that means an anchor that has no single point of failure. But in the middle there you talk about having a single point of failure. Can you clarify?
Bill L
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jeepnphreak
Nov 12, 2012, 4:37 AM
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What do you mean by anchor back up?
What I do is either use limiter knots, clove hitch or a figure 8. Limiter knots on a sliding X. Fig 8 for a cordelett, clove hitch to adjust the leg length of the anchor.
either way you decide to make an anchor mean that no on piece of failure (coreolett or a piece blowing) will cause total anchor failure.
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USnavy
Nov 12, 2012, 6:19 AM
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Personally, I would not use a sliding X on a trad anchor except under specific and specialized conditions. If one piece blows, you may be looking at as much as factor one fall on a static sling on the remainder piece(s). That may be somewhat okay when talking about bolted anchors, but with trad anchors, that poses a very imminent and serious danger. For that reason, I mostly just sling each piece and tie an overhand knot in the end. That ensures that the cordlette is fully redundant and it eliminates extension. That anchor method also invalidates the need for any extra backup sling like you are referencing.
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Libbster
Nov 12, 2012, 2:03 PM
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Personally I prefer a two, three if I can, point anchor with quickdraws and a figure eight on a bight for the master point. I wouldnt take my advice for cannon but usually if i feel like I need a backup I use tow rope that supports a few thousand pounds or steel cable that does the same. Its not climbing intended equipment but it acts as a strong backup just in case the whole anchor somehow implodes.
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theextremist04
Nov 12, 2012, 2:43 PM
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Libbster wrote: Personally I prefer a two, three if I can, point anchor with quickdraws and a figure eight on a bight for the master point. I wouldnt take my advice for cannon but usually if i feel like I need a backup I use tow rope that supports a few thousand pounds or steel cable that does the same. Its not climbing intended equipment but it acts as a strong backup just in case the whole anchor somehow implodes.
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csproul
Nov 12, 2012, 3:31 PM
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Why would you build an anchor such that it needed a back-up? Build your anchor right and it will be redundant and have no need for a back-up.
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Colinhoglund
Nov 12, 2012, 6:27 PM
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bearbreeder wrote: csproul wrote: Why would you build an anchor such that it needed a back-up? Build your anchor right and it will be redundant and have no need for a back-up. whuddah he said ^^^^ 
1+ No single point failure, no extension and as much equalization as possible. If your anchor can't do that, it aint good enough,
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marc801
Nov 12, 2012, 8:27 PM
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Libbster wrote: ...if i feel like I need a backup I use tow rope that supports a few thousand pounds or steel cable that does the same. Its not climbing intended equipment but it acts as a strong backup just in case the whole anchor somehow implodes.
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gunkiemike
Nov 14, 2012, 12:07 AM
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An "anchor" is, by definition, backed up. In other words it is "redundant". No single component failure can take the whole thing out.
If you do it correctly, anyways.
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rocknice2
Nov 14, 2012, 4:51 PM
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I think the OP meant that when using a sliding X, the sling itself is a single point of failure. Sounds like he backs it up with another sling. That's one way or using limiting knots on both sides of the master biner is another.
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skiclimb
Nov 14, 2012, 5:27 PM
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My backup is experience and proper use of knowledge to ensure that catastrophic anchor failure is not an issue.
Starts with good pro (or lots of pro). good equalization in proper direction(s). proper belay position and technique.
Sliding x generally avoided but not strictly. 3 placed pieces or more .. 2 3/8s Bolts or more. Have more than a few times used a single point anchor with confidence.
As always the quality of the pro is the basis for all the rest of the anchor build.
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shimanilami
Nov 14, 2012, 10:08 PM
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I'm just a caveman. Your world frightens and confuses me.
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