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addiroids
Jan 10, 2003, 9:27 PM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
Posts: 1046
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I just took double to triple TCU's, a skyhook, double cams to #3 and 1 #4, double set of stoppers, and some offset brass nuts. Nothing too special. No tricam needed.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2003-01-10 13:28 ]
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wigglestick
Jan 10, 2003, 9:32 PM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Jul 27, 2001
Posts: 1235
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I did the route in a day last spring and this is what I brought:
Triple set of TCU's
Double set of .5-#2 camalots
1 Each #3, #4 Camalots
2 sets of nuts.
2 sets of HB offsets
1 set of loweballs, although you really only need the smaller ones
1 BD talon hook Some will argue this isn't necessary but if this is you first wall it will be.
1 each smallest 4 tricams
A bunch of free biners for all those damn bolt ladders.
1-2 rivet hangers or keyhole hangers for the 4th pitch.
Um, that is all I can think of for now. Let me know if you need additional beta.
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slabbyd
Jan 11, 2003, 7:45 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 40
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I climbed it in Oct-2002. I more or less followed the recommendations in Bjornstads book and got by with a pretty small rack.
1 full set of HB offsets
2 almost full sets of stoppers (#4 - #12)
1 set of Friends #2 thru #4
1 full set of TCUs (purple thru black)
#.5,#.75,#1 Camalots
40+/- free biners
I backcleaned a lot of cams particularly in the orange/red TCU size. Doubles of these might be nice. I never needed a hook, but did do a fair bit of top stepping and long reaches. It was also my first wall, and my first solo wall.
As for strategy, there is a mid pitch anchor on pitch 4 that allows you to fix 2 ropes on the first 3.5 pitches. From there you can climb it in a day. Beware, the final chimney/gulley/ledge/sand pitch.
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gawd
Jan 14, 2003, 8:55 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 193
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CAM HOOKS
1 SET OF CAMALOTS 1-3
DOULBE .5-.75 CAMALOTS
1 SET OF ALIEN
1 SET OF TCUS
1.5 SET OF STOPPERS (DOULBE THRU SMALL MED)
1 BD HOOK
1 TALON HOOK
2 CAM HOOKS
12 QUICK DRAWS
3 LOCKERS
4 EXTRA HOTWIRES
ALL PIECES RACKED ON THEIR OWN NEUTRINO
STOPPERS SPREAD OVER 2 PETZL SPIRIT BINERS
1 MAMMUT SUPER SAFE ROPE
1 GRI GRI
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