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missedyno
Nov 22, 2001, 6:41 PM
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hello all,
i'm relatively new to climbing and next month i hope to be going on my first "big" lead climbing trip out doors. besides other things, i really need my lead gear.
i'm thinking about 20 quick draws, a 60m rope, and slings of different sizes. I've already got my belay devices and all that from top roping.
anyone have any suggestions? Brands to get? Should i get draws assembled or buy biners and slings seperately? wire gate? bent gate?
any ideas are appreciated....
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missedyno
Nov 22, 2001, 11:18 PM
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this is all very good information. i believe it's going in another thread somewhere else, but any opinions on a rope?
and pinscar, thanks, i've got a helmet. no problem there. new to climbing and it's already protected me from falling rock.
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sparker
Nov 23, 2001, 12:36 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2001
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The most important thing for a new climber is a partner who knows what they are doing. An experienced climber should have most of the required gear.
Lead climbing outside is not the same as climbing in a gym or top roping. Everything changes when you are on the sharp end.
Something about your opening message confuses me, how can you have “my belay devices and all that from top roping” but not have a rope?
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missedyno
Nov 24, 2001, 6:49 PM
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ha ha, well sparker, i see what you mean. i've been lucky enough to be introduced to climbing by some very experienced, just generally good people.
i've gotten away with not having a rope because i'm always with a group that has more gear than you could imagine. i just think it's time i buy my own. it's been a talent of mine to get this far without a rack of my own...
thanks for the rope advice, i'll check out those catalogs...
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theooze
Nov 24, 2001, 7:03 PM
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Here's a question for you guys - if someone is equipped to climb sport routes only, do they get to call it a "rack"?
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thumper
Nov 24, 2001, 11:42 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
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Maybe she's just a talented mooch
I figure you need a "rack" of gear to call it a rack. Otherwise it's "Let me grab my draws and we'll hit it."
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sparker
Nov 25, 2001, 12:13 AM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2001
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I am a gear whore. A quick look in my toy box will make it clear that I have sold my body, mind and soul to a big corporation so I can buy pretty shiny toys and travel to fun places.
My “sport” rack contains 10 draws, 2 daisy chains, 2 petzl attaches, 2 petzl Williams 1 grigri, 1 ATC and a 60m rope. I also carry 2 quickdraws rigged with locking biners, 8 meter cordellette and a stickclip.
Draws, I carry 10 draws rigged with Petzl spirits. I really like the keylock feature when cleaning a route. Yes, they do cost a lot more but every time I use a friends draws I am glad I spent the extra money. My draws are of different lengths, this allows me to prevent a biner from laying on ledge and can help reduce rope drag.
The daisy chains, attaches, ATC and the Williams are for cleaning the route. I use the grigri for belaying and the ATC to rap down off anchors (sometimes I lower off the anchors I know I shouldn’t but…). All of my locking biners are screwgates. I own two petzl auto lockers and do not like them. Dirt gets into that making them hard to operate and the little balls can be hard to press.
My rope is a 60mm duodess 10mm mammut (Galaxy?). I don’t like it. It has a very stiff feel. I have used a lot of Mammut 10.5mm Flashs and I think that is what I will buy next. I really like the Duodess feature.
The two quick draws rigged with locking biners is for people who want to top rope a sport route. This is a luxury accessory that I have not used very often. Stick clip is a good toy to have when you are pushing your limits, mine is homemade from a golf ball retriever. The cordellette is always on my harness, it is used as a safety line when needed.
This post assumes you are referring to a sport climbing. If you are starting a trad rack that is totally different and requires a massive income tax refund.
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theooze
Nov 25, 2001, 1:34 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2003
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Good post, Sparker. You are a gear head for sure. Now quit being a sport weenie and start pouring cash into a trad rack. I'd like to hear back from you what you end up carrying.
Regarding your draws with lockers - I always use a locker on the rope end for my first clip on a sport climb. Gate flutter and all that, you know. On the other hand, I have no prob top roping off of two draws with no lockers.
Stu Hammett
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jsm280
Nov 25, 2001, 3:17 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2001
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Stuff I pull from my rack to sport climb with.
10-12 draws (4 short the rest long, I use a short on the first clip and at the top if we top rope and the shunts/chains are close)
two short runners with locking biners (for the changeover)
a couple of bail biners (used to lower from if you get in over your head)
ATC and locking biner
Prussic cord
shoes
harness
chalk
helment
rope (60 meter, Mine is dry however this will not make a huge difference unless you climb in the rain, snow, or ice)
tarp or rope bag
Lots of water and snacks
and if we might top rope I bring a couple peices of 30 ft webbing and some extra locking biners.
Oh yea, my boys.... for those shetchy times.
this gets the basics and as far as name brands.... get what you like and what feels good. The more you climb and find out what gear you like you will begen to buy and or replace your old gear with what you like. Go out with people and use their gear and get a feel for what you like. Also, go to the local shop and talk to those guys and play with all of the gear in the shop. If the gear is certified it's good (not always true for Trad stuff.)
climb to the top......
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sparker
Nov 27, 2001, 3:50 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: Oct 29, 2001
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I forgot something. Get a helmet. We were at the local crag a week ago when some kids started to toss rocks off over the cliff. That and a lot of the routes at Mount Nemo, Ontario have a few new loose rocks each spring.
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missedyno
Nov 28, 2001, 8:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2001
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okay, so i won't call it a rack then. just my pile of draws.
sparker: yeah, call me a talented mooch. you'd have to ask the people i climb with why they've let me use their equipment all this time. geez, i hope that it's because they're all really nice people hoping that by lending me gear they are in some way contributing to the betterment of humankind.
I too accidentally sold mind and soul to a faceless corporation but they seem to pay me for it and if i buy something for myself, it's gotta be for climbing.
thanks so much for your posts. i'll compile an involved shopping list and go blow some money. i'm so excited.
and yes, i have a helmet. i've been victim to challenged people throwing things from the top of the crag at nemo as well.
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climb512
Nov 30, 2001, 8:45 AM
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Registered: May 19, 2001
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depends on where you are climbing to a degree, it is all good beta. i had stones thrown down on us at mt.nemo as well. damn canadians. not to plug another site but you can try www.gunks.com and they have a good gear/rack breakdown. other wise they are mostly snobs over there on the otherside.
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