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majid_sabet
Jul 17, 2013, 4:27 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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A rock climber was critically injured Tuesday when she fell 50 feet in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The climber, 25, was rappelling down a rock face on Storm Mountain near the mouth of the canyon when she lost her footing due to heavy rain
http://www.sltrib.com/...-cottonwood.html.csp
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 17, 2013, 5:09 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: A rock climber was critically injured Tuesday when she fell 50 feet in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The climber, 25, was rappelling down a rock face on Storm Mountain near the mouth of the canyon when she lost her footing due to heavy rain http://www.sltrib.com/...-cottonwood.html.csp
Sigh, another example of a "great" accident report. Since when does "losing footing" have anything to do with rappelling safely? And why is this a rock climber accident?
I hope the young woman recovers fully and as quickly as possible.
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marc801
Jul 17, 2013, 7:04 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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In the 13 years I've lived in the Salt Lake metro area, not a one of the TV stations or newspapers are yet able to accurately report a climbing accident. This, unfortunately, despite ample opportunity for practice each season.
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ecade
Jul 18, 2013, 3:05 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132
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PRUSSIKS SAVE LIVES
(other Autoblock hitches do too)
Rapelling is to give yourself over to the rope, accordingly, your footing should be irrelvant to your safety.
If your footing is crucial to your safety while rapelling... what do you do while rapelling a roof or steep cave?
A speedy and full recovery and lets use our prussiks people, its 10 seconds...
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bearbreeder
Jul 18, 2013, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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keeping both hands below the ATC saves lives ...
i see people all the time with one hand above the ATC which is totally useless .... both hands below keeps control even if you let go with one
if yr going over the edge ... you can simply tie a slip knot a few feet down ...
prussics work fine ... the problem is that i see beginners use em all the time, and as a consequence they dont know how to rappel smoothly and with confidence .... theyre jerking all over the place bumping down every few feet ..
i show people how to rap first WITHOUT a prussic ... so they can develop smooth rapping skills, and that they are VERY AWARE of keeping both hands under the device ... then show em with a prussic
god forbid one forgets the prussic then has to rap ... and even stop in mid rap, if you never learned the leg wrap
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lkeegan
Jul 18, 2013, 8:49 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2009
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Another thing to point out (going a little off topic) is to make sure your prussic doesn't get sucked into your ATC, either by shortening your prussic cord or by extending your ATC. If your Prussic does get sucked in (I'm not sure if thats the best way to describe it) it wont lock and thus not too useful, even if tied right.
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