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saabriinaa
Jul 18, 2013, 9:42 PM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2013
Posts: 1
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Hi, I am an intermediate climber looking for my first pair of aggressive shoes. I currently own the 5.10 anasazi lv, and they are too loose on the bridge but too tight on my pinky and big toes. The heel seemed to fit well, but would sometimes slide when heel hooking. I have asymmetrical toes and am looking for a shoe with a snug heel and a down turned toe that is moderately stiff but still has some flexion. Basically, I am hoping to find a more aggressive shoe than what i currently own, that work well for bouldering and sport climbing.
I have tried on the Shamans but there was an air pocket above my toes...
If anyone has any suggestions, that would be much appreciated.
PS- I prefer 5.10 or Evolv :)
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deanb724
Jul 19, 2013, 1:00 AM
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Registered: Jul 14, 2012
Posts: 4
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I had a very similar problem, I could never find aggressive shoes that didn't crush my toes.
Then I bought a pair of evolve optimus primes and they're great.
They're boulder aggressive and they fit my feet well. My feet sound similar to yours.
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brinosaur
Jul 19, 2013, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2010
Posts: 46
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Judging from the description of your current shoes, it sounds like you benefit more from a better-fitting pair of shoes rather than a specifically downturned pair. A sloppy fitting heel will hinder steep bouldering more often than a flat, non-downturned shoe.
If you still have your heart set on an aggressive shoe and prefer Evolv, try the Geshidos. They seem to have a slightly wider profile, but without all the room on top, ala the Shamans. If you are willing to sacrifice the downturn for a possibly better fit overall, check out the Bandits or Elektras. These models seem to have a particularly narrow heel cup compared to all other models and brands. As someone whose heels simply will not sit still in Sportivas and 5.10s, I have had extremely good experiences with both the laceup and velcro Bandits on hard, steep routes.
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