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codyk
Jan 24, 2003, 3:20 AM
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Does anyone know the rating of School Boys Fantasy on the greenbelt of Austin Tx? Also do you know where to find a topo for it?
Thanks,
Cody Keith
[ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2003-01-24 11:24 ]
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codyk
Jan 24, 2003, 6:39 PM
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tav8816
Jan 24, 2003, 6:52 PM
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Check out texasclimbers.com it is an excellent site with tons of Austin area topos. Follow links for topos to New Wall/Great Wall area on the greenbelt. Post back if this is not enough information.
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tav8816
Jan 24, 2003, 6:55 PM
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The indirect is a 5.9 but the direct variation is debated due to a nasty hold.
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tav8816
Jan 24, 2003, 7:09 PM
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I was refering to School Boys. I might have the wrong route. Unsure of the Fantasy part.
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duracellbunny
Jan 24, 2003, 7:13 PM
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School Boy Fantasy in New Wall????????.............
I know this two routes:
. School Boys Indirect (5.9)** – Start on slate and
traverse right under roof. Clip the bolt of Yabba
Dabba Do and head for the huge crack system. Climb
up the gently overhanging crack to the top. Use long
slings on the traverse to prevent rope drag.
. School Boys Direct (5.10+ to 5.12-)_ – This route’s
rating is dependent upon the humidity. It spits 5.10
and 5.12 climbers of with regular frequency. Warning!
This route will suck your will to climb.
Good Luck
[ This Message was edited by: duracellbunny on 2003-01-24 11:32 ]
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astone
Jan 24, 2003, 7:14 PM
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School boy fantasy is down stream from Gus Fruh on Barton Creek. It is easy to find with the Texas Limestone Book.
The indirect is 5.9. The direct is 5.10d if you use the Euro Foot Trick, otherwise it is much harder.
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lox
Jan 24, 2003, 7:17 PM
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"Euro Foot Trick" aka "good technique."
5.12, humidity dependent...
lol.
No wonder you kids know a lot about this sportclimb.
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polarwid
Jan 24, 2003, 7:25 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Regional Discussions forum by polarwid[/small]
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astone
Jan 24, 2003, 7:29 PM
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Lox,
Unless Austin ratings have gotten even softer over the years there is no way that climb is a 12.
Of course with so much traffic that limestone does get pretty greasy.
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texasclimbers
Jan 24, 2003, 7:43 PM
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no, it's not 5.12 by any means. it was listed as 5.12 as a joke. incidentally, the climb is more likely 11- (imho) since the foot hold at the crux broke off.
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codyk
Jan 24, 2003, 10:47 PM
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So what is the fanasty rated? Does anyone have topos for it, if so could you please post a link.
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texasclimbers
Jan 24, 2003, 10:58 PM
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ratings are subjective but i'd say that 11a is right on.
Download topos for the new/great wall.
http://www.texasclimbers.com/crags/topos/
School Boy Fantasy is the same as School Boys.
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lox
Jan 24, 2003, 11:37 PM
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Crux foothold being on that skirt down low ?!?
I guess I haven't climbed it lately...
Or much since that first time I did it and realized how bad it sucks.
ROGERS PARK ON SATURDAY, WEAKMOS.
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codyk
Jan 24, 2003, 11:43 PM
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are you sure the same?
are you talking about the one between gus fruh and spyglasS?
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lox
Jan 27, 2003, 7:54 PM
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I dunno guy... texasclimbers and I have more experience between us than you have years on this planet.
If we aren't talking about the same "Schoolboys" on the greenbelt, YOU have problems...
It's to the right of Flintstones on New Wall.
lol.
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hoppinbig
Jan 27, 2003, 7:58 PM
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Does it have big jugs?? Sorry couldn't help it I'm going back to work now
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