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reborne
Feb 23, 2003, 4:24 PM
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if you could please break down your rack list (everything) for a day of trad at the gunks (any rationalizations would be apreaciated) i have some basics and would like to see what spacifics people use at the gunks
thanks in advance
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piton
Feb 24, 2003, 1:56 PM
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Yo A,
ask me this question next time i see you in the gym..
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bakedjake
Feb 24, 2003, 2:48 PM
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Don't tell him in the gym, post it as I would really appreciate seeing this list as well. I am trying to budget a basic trad rack for the Gunks.
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danl
Feb 24, 2003, 2:58 PM
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Trad rack for the gunks:
1 set DMM wall nuts
1 set BD micro stoppers
1/2 set assorted booty stoppers
pink tricam
red tricam
brown tricam
Aliens black through orange
WC friends 2-4 inc half sizes
6 draws
6 24" runners <2 biners each tripled over>
2 48" runners
3 lockers
3 spare biners
This will get you by on 90% of the routes.
Depending on experience level you may want to double up on the aliens blue green yellow and red. And maybe some larger cams
edited for grammer
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piton
Feb 24, 2003, 3:53 PM
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pretty much what danl said..
a rack of nuts wild country, black diamond etc... doubles on mid size
2 footer slings tripled over like dan said, 3-5
4 footers slings
cams green alien, doubles on yellow and 1 red
camolots .5-2, 1 of each
just 1 pink tricam.
spare biners
if you get on some harder routes bring the rp's
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cracklover
Feb 24, 2003, 4:58 PM
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Yeah, Dan know's what he's talking about (plus he can climb 10x harder than me). A few addt'l notes (fwiw, I mostly lead routes up to 5.8 in the Gunks).
Cams - one set: Aliens for the smallest four sizes, then Camalots up to #2.
Tricams - 2 pinks, two reds, one brown. Note - this is specific to my gunks rack - tricams are great in the nubbly rock w/ horizontal cracks there.
Nuts - I have only 1 set, (plus ~1/3 set booty). The tricams stand in for doubles on the large size.
Two 1 1/2 length (3 foot) slings, plus a whole bunch (like 10) standard 2 foot slings.
A couple quick-draws.
Locking biners (duh).
1 Cordelette.
And remember to save some gear during the pitch - don't forget you may need to build your own gear anchor!
Hope that helps,
GO
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rrrADAM
Feb 24, 2003, 5:50 PM
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My regular rack works well. Just remember that you will need to protect horizontal cracks, so rack accordingly.
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dig_scott
Feb 24, 2003, 6:46 PM
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just some one else saying thanks.
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reborne
Feb 24, 2003, 7:07 PM
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your regular rack??????
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danskiz
Feb 24, 2003, 7:26 PM
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You will need 2 cordalettes if you plan on doing any of the 3 pitch routes. Many of them can be done in two pitches, but some wander so much that rope drag would be horrible. Unfortunately they have bolted the belays on many of the popular routes. So for the most part if you stay on three star routes, you probably wont even need to build an anchor.
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danl
Feb 24, 2003, 7:27 PM
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In reply to: My regular rack works well. Just remember that you will need to protect horizontal cracks, so rack accordingly.
Boy I'm sure lots of people will find that post helpful.
how bout telling us what your regular rack is composed of
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cracklover
Feb 24, 2003, 8:17 PM
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In reply to: You will need 2 cordalettes if you plan on doing any of the 3 pitch routes. Many of them can be done in two pitches, but some wander so much that rope drag would be horrible. Unfortunately they have bolted the belays on many of the popular routes. So for the most part if you stay on three star routes, you probably wont even need to build an anchor.
Sorry danskiz, I have to take issue with a couple points in your post unless you don't know how to build an anchor with slings or rope, you don't "need" any cordalettes, much less 2.
And danskiz, I don't think you were suggesting that the gunks are all double-bolted anchors, but I just want to underscore that if you don't trust yourself to be able to build a bomber anchor with your own gear, you have no business climbing multipitch routes in the Gunks. Of the routes I have done there, I would say that only about 1/4 or less of them had bolts at the ends of pitches. Even if there are bolts on "many" of the popular routes - if you get on just one that doesn't and you don't know what you're doing - hello disaster!
[edited]
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