|
krillen
Feb 27, 2003, 10:32 PM
Post #1 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2001
Posts: 4769
|
I'd post this in Regional Discussions but teh sight keeps telling me the link doesn't work from the Nevada section.
Anyway, anyone have any suggestions for "Must Do"climbs at Owen's River Gorge? We will be there in a coupls of week so nothing north facing please :D . We will be looking for Great Sport, or Multi pitch trad anywhere from 5.6-5.10, and we may be open to some bouldering if you talk real nice like.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
ride
Feb 28, 2003, 1:26 AM
Post #2 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 16, 2002
Posts: 216
|
Krillen heres a few fun one's I remember
the couple of easier ones on the left side of Negress Wall, pretty much anything on Warm Up Wall
ie: Welcome to the Gorge, High Seas, Babushka, What Up
Great Wall of China: enter the dragon, child of light, heart of sun, etc...
and I remember a fun one on the yellowed wall to the left of the Dilithium Crystal, a .9 I think that was really fun. either Stardate or Lava Java it could be, looking at the gb.
Don't know if these are "must-do's" or remember which direction they face, but have fun, wish I was going....
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Feb 28, 2003, 1:41 AM
Post #3 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
As is true of many sport climbing destinations there's not a ton of great climbs under 5.10. There are some I think.
I think the best 5.10 in the ORG is "Gorgeous Arete". It's a must do!
There are a few fun 8's and 9's nearby(upper gorge) but I can't remember names.
"Show Us Your Tits" is also a good 5.10.
I wouldn't bother with any trad in the ORG. Check out Cardinal Pinnacle outside of Bishop.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Feb 28, 2003, 1:51 AM
Post #4 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*I think the best 5.10 in the ORG is "Gorgeous Arete". It's a must do!*
Gorgeous is in the north end of the Gorge and will still be a tad nippy in March
If you've never been to the ORG it's pretty easy to figure out, actually, driving to and finding the proper descents into the Gorge is rather beta intensive, once you are down there and armed with the proper literature all will become clear. Whenever I go to a new area I just look for whatever has the most chalk and that is usually a pretty good barometer of route quality
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
Feb 28, 2003, 1:53 AM
Post #5 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
It's in the North end but the climb is one of the few that faces South isn't it? I can't remember. Maybe it's bad advice.
|
|
|
|
|
buoux9
Feb 28, 2003, 2:20 AM
Post #6 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 31, 2001
Posts: 12
|
Go to the China Wall. You'll find that there are many routes at the grade that you want to climb at. Also, you'll find that it's quite sunny from mid-morning to mid-afternoon, which is key in the Gorge during winter. Gorgeous 5.10 may be a good route, but only when temps are bearable in the shade. Have fun, D
|
|
|
|
|
sierramike
Feb 28, 2003, 2:29 AM
Post #7 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 4, 2002
Posts: 158
|
Don't shy away from the shady side of Owen's. You will be neglecting many good routes and in March you can climb in the shade. I was climbing at the Pub area (just right of the Central Gully approach) two weeks ago in t-shirt and pants. Very nice. There are 5-6 really fun 5.10's in the Pub area alone. Oh yeah, there ARE some nice crack climbs at Owen's, so bring your rack. With roughly 5-600 routes, I'm sure that you'll find many to suit your fancy. Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
maculated
Feb 28, 2003, 2:56 AM
Post #8 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
|
Check out Warm Up Wall, you won't be disappointed, L Alien Wall also nice, Banana Belt, some great higher tens at the Pub area . . . Great Wall of China is pretty stiff - if 5.10's your limit, this will test you, I can't lead the 5.8 there.
|
|
|
|
|
boltdude
Feb 28, 2003, 8:02 AM
Post #9 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
|
Get the Marty Lewis guide, it has a 5-star system that's generally really good. The Central Gorge area has tons of good crags, plenty to do, you can't really go wrong. The Gorge is N/S running so W side crags get morning sun, E side get afternoon.
Most of the North Gorge is narrower and colder, especially the Gorgeous Towers (north facing). The South Gorge is wider and warmer, and certain areas stay sunny later than anywhere else (esp. Warning Signs area).
Some new routes (newer than the current guide which is from 2000) are listed in the route database, including several easier routes in the Central area.
There are some good moderate trad routes, but gear can be tricky in the slick and friable rock. Search rec.climbing on Google for "Owens Cracks" and you'll find a mini-guide that I made a couple years ago.
Greg
|
|
|
|
|
krillen
Feb 28, 2003, 5:34 PM
Post #10 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2001
Posts: 4769
|
Thanks for all the Great beta guys.
The problem is that we are going with a group that climbs all different levels and styles, so I'm stuck trying to do stuff I'd like to do and find challenging, without alienating the rest of the group.
Thanks again. Keep that info coming!
|
|
|
|
|
ambler
Feb 28, 2003, 6:33 PM
Post #11 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2002
Posts: 1690
|
The Gorge was one of the earlier U.S. sport areas, I believe. As a result, on many routes the bolts are a "sporty" distance apart that could be a rude surprise if you're used to clipping them every four feet. Often the last bolt is well below you, on a vertical wall, as you're pulling up slack to clip the next. A fall might not be harmless.
I love the routes and hope they stay this way, but would recommend starting out (as in any unfamiliar area) a few grades below your max, just to get a feel for the rock. The Negress Wall has some unintimidating easy routes. The same grades on Great Wall of China tend to feel a bit more exciting. Or on George Bush -- it's easy 10, it's great fun, but you could ledge out from the crux. Abitarot across the way always has traffic; sink into those top handholds and see why! Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Feb 28, 2003, 9:03 PM
Post #12 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
If you're going with a group of varying abilities, check out Negress wall and Great Wall of China areas. those areas have lots of stuff rated .8 to .10. However, on a weekend you will probably have to wait to get on some of the classic .9s there, those are the two more popular areas.
The marty lewis guide is good, it rates climbs on quality as well, from one asterisk '*' to five '*****'.
The most fun I've had on a sport route was Sendero Luminoso, 5.10b *****, on solarium wall, just north of GW of china. Check it out, a solid 30 meter pumpfest with a slab crux. Unbelievable.
Cheers,
Dave
|
|
|
|
|
lox
Mar 1, 2003, 12:10 AM
Post #13 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 2, 2002
Posts: 2307
|
THE HAPPIES.
|
|
|
|
|
kalcario
Mar 1, 2003, 12:40 AM
Post #14 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 1601
|
*The Gorge was one of the earlier U.S. sport areas, I believe. As a result, on many routes the bolts are a "sporty" distance apart that could be a rude surprise if you're used to clipping them every four feet.*
Some of the earlier routes were established ground up by trad climbers who were trying to instill a little bit of spiciness, the ORG is uniquely suited to ground up drilling due to the abundance of flat edges and the unstable nature of the rock above the 100' level, as you will discover within minutes of your first visit. Nonetheless I would rate the ORG as one of the LEAST "sporty" U.S. sport crags, most routes are densely bolted compared to other, steeper areas where cleaner falls are the norm. For beginner-to-intermediate level sport climbing the ORG is arguably the best in the U.S.
|
|
|
|
|
dewiman
Mar 1, 2003, 3:16 AM
Post #15 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2002
Posts: 26
|
I think the route is James Brown, first pitch 10a - second 11a - great route IMO
|
|
|
|
|
boulderingmadman
Mar 1, 2003, 4:16 AM
Post #16 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 448
|
"gorgeouse" is a must do. one of the best .10a's ive ever done. also, checkout "klingon" (.11d, i think, maybe harder, maybe easier).
and the regional link for nevada would be pretty much pointless, since the ORG is in california...just so you dont get too lost :D
|
|
|
|
|
moabbeth
Mar 1, 2003, 5:41 AM
Post #17 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 1786
|
You said access from Nevada section, not sure if you meant state route search cause Owen's is under California, not Nevada.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Mar 1, 2003, 8:10 AM
Post #18 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
A few great climbs in the gorge:
Dr Evil
Sendero Luminosa
Pumping the Slots
Babushka
Krillen, you mentioned trad & multi-pitch. ORG isn't much of a destination for either. Pumping the Slots above is trad. The easiest multi-pitch climb I know of in the gorge (and the longest) is Towering Inferno, 5.11b, 5 pitches, bolted.
If you want multi-pitch trad, there's plenty of climbing nearby in the Eastern Sierra.
Have fun.
David
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Mar 1, 2003, 7:45 PM
Post #19 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
climb the west side in the morning, east side in the afternoon.
great wall of china has a great mix for the afternoon.
some routes
arbitrot
show us your tits
range of light
don't bring a rack, the gear is a pile
also consider the nearby Clark Canyon for volcanic tuft sport routes
|
|
|
|
|
boulderingmadman
Mar 3, 2003, 6:25 AM
Post #20 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 448
|
deadmans is nothing like buttermilks...deadmans is a pocketed tuff, buttermilks is granite. deadmanse is mostly short cliff faces, buttermilks is house sized boulders. (i would call the granite at RCC more like yosemite than tuolomne, as there are no knobs.)
there is single and multi-pitch traditional climbing available around in buttermilk country, though im unaware of any guide. just kinda walk around, find a route and be careful. benton crag provides technically challenging trad climbing in all but the winter months.
summer sport climbing is awesome at clarks canyon. think pocketed, steep, and well protected. much more fun than the ORG, IMHO.
check this out, this is the alcove...
http://boulderingmadman.tripod.com/0f258890.jpg
checkout this for some more pics of clarks...
|
|
|
|
|
boulderingmadman
Mar 4, 2003, 5:17 AM
Post #21 of 21
(2572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2002
Posts: 448
|
no disrespect intended. i just didnt want someone to go expecting one thing and go away disappointed. all the areas you mention are quality, but specific in what they offer...
|
|
|
|
|
|
