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geckoclimbinggym.com
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Mar 13, 2003, 7:01 AM
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Hello fellow climbers. I am working on opening a climbing gym in Pittsburgh PA. The lack of climbing gyms in the area and the constant hardship I encounter when I do go to the local climbing gyms (2) (management ) has prompted me and my best friend ( he is helping out with management, he does not climb ) to open a climbing gym that actually has class. I am looking for any type of info, comments, suggestions or any other thing that can make this the best climbing gym possible. If you are wondering, yes , I am the owner so rest assured that this will definitely have an impact on the whole thing. I may be new here but I have plenty of climbing experience and some cash saved up for the whole thing (not to mention a business sense). Of course I want it to succeed so I need your help in doing this. I am always looking at what people say in this site and now its your chance to make a diference. You can also check out the website www.geckoclimbing.com for updates. I will be checking this post out everyday and writing down your comments and suggestions for when the time comes to decide what goes and what blows. Also feel free to email me with any of your suggestions too.
I look foward to being an integral part of this community and maybe meeting you personally one day. Til then go ahead and play your part in the making of a gym.
Thank You
Al
PS: I am posting this at 2 in the morning so that everybody can see it first thing in the morning. Please bump it so that it can stay in the front page, if necessary.
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tori
Mar 13, 2003, 7:13 AM
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must have cracks, as many as you can afford to put in, new climbers may not care but experienced climbers are good to have at a gym and they like crack. also, can you use some type of textured product as a base that does not look like plywood? the more it looks like rock the more at home people will feel, of course i'm sure this would cost more, maybe get creative and fabricate something, or do you have to go with commercial products? good luck, oh, and also, the whole roof should be covered with holds so all climbs for leaders could go over and down the other side, of course the attorney for the insurance company will quash that idea as fast as "simulated rockfall."
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novus-ordotw
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Mar 13, 2003, 8:09 AM
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features are good lots and lots of them!!!!!! oh the geko (or how ever u spell it) things cute gj
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novus-ordotw
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Mar 13, 2003, 8:13 AM
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ok so u spell it gecko :oops: any way i forgot to say good luck so good luck :D :D
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agentoffortune
Mar 13, 2003, 8:21 AM
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Sell shoes there so that people can actually try out their shoes before buying them. Also have classes that teach etiquette out at the crags as well as in the gym. Rent climbing videos. Have parties there. And donate to the access fund. Be ambitious.
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c_kryll
Mar 13, 2003, 3:34 PM
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One word! FEATURES.............and MORE FEATURES!!!
guess that's 4 words..:)
Chris
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hawk233
Mar 13, 2003, 4:18 PM
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Make the wall look like real rock. Have cracks, flakes, huecos, underclings and all that good stuff right on the wall. Also make it friendly for those of us who can't flash a 5.12 anyday of the week. I climb about 5.8-5.9ish and there really isn't all that much stuff for me to climb/boulder on at alot of gyms. Also, I don't know if this would be possible, but I think that it would be really cool if you put a crack up that people could actually place gear in. It would be much easier to learn trad knowing that if you're gear pulled that you'd land on a nice soft pad instead of sharp, pointy rocks.
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gretchino
Mar 13, 2003, 4:27 PM
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I just read your site. How cool would it be to have a beer after climbing IN THE GYM! I mean I do the beer thing anyway, but normally in the comfort of my home (jonesin' for it the entire drive home from the gym). I can imagine the legal aspect of this would be pretty heafty though...how would you regulate drunken climbing?
Also, like everyone else here has said, a crack is key! The two gyms I go to here in San Diego both have one, and it's just plain nice to have. Not to mention the range of features...
Best of luck to you! If I'm in the area and the gym is finished, you best believe I'll visit!
Gretch
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duracellbunny
Mar 13, 2003, 5:21 PM
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Good luck!!!!!
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terrainerist
Mar 13, 2003, 11:22 PM
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Good routes is what it's all about really! I've climbed and worked in gyms for many years and what really matters is routes! Regularly updated challanges that bring climbers back. You may not have 20,000 sq ft of terrain, but you can always have more (and better) routes! :lol:
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bentsid
Mar 13, 2003, 11:43 PM
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How about a chimney and a few aretes?
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geckoclimbinggym.com
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Mar 13, 2003, 11:57 PM
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Thank you everyone for the feedback. As you can see I regularly will be coming back to get your suggestions in. I thank you all for the unconditional support you are all showing for this project. As for the drunken climbing the bar would be apart from the gym with a big crystal separating you from the gym so you can look at that 5.10 that just wiped you while you contemplate the retaliation you will land on it next time. Of course all of this is in the planning stages and there is no guarantee that the bar thing will happen they are just being considered. I have also taken a look into the crack sugestion and dont worry that is definitely going to happen, so is the placing gear so you can learn correct placement within a controlled enviroment. When I said we will try to be the best gym possible, I meant it.
Again thank you all for your input and keep the suggestions coming.
Al
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redpoint73
Mar 14, 2003, 12:14 AM
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Thats awesome! Good luck.
If you can afford it, go for a Solid Rock, Eldorado, or Entreprise wall system. I know it costs a lot more than plywood. But many of the newer gyms are going that way, so you gotta stay current. I think all the boltholes are lead-fall rated, so you can throw a bolt and hanger in any hole, and every climb is leadable. The Entreprise wall in particular has tons of features and cracks. Some parts of the walls can be climbed on features alone.
Ample coat hangers, lockers or cubbie holes for shoes, packs, etc. is essential so people don't leave their stuff al over. An area to stretch and warmup would be cool, preferably with some thin mats or carpet. A dedicated bouldering wall, with a nice overhanging angle and thick mats would be great. That way the bouldereres and roed climbers aren't competing so much for space. Also, some 'supplemental" training equipment is nice to have, too. Such as a campus board, hangboard, and maybe an inclined sit-up apparatus.
Of course, this is all "ideal" and you will probably have to compromise on stuff along the way . . . Good luck and have fun!!!
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geckoclimbinggym.com
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Mar 14, 2003, 12:23 AM
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Yoga classes, acupuncture sessions. What do you guys think. I remember I was skeptical on the yoga at first but when I started it and saw how much it improved my climbing I have always thought that it would be a perfect supplement for it. Also I have had several injuries along the way especially my right knee. After several acupuncture sessions I found the pain went away. I recommend it to anyone even if you are afraid of needles there is always acupressure.
So what do you think.
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orangekyak
Mar 14, 2003, 12:31 AM
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There has got to be a way to have trad gear placements installed in the wall. Then you could have trad leading in the gym. I know it sounds silly, but doesn't the whole concept of climbing on plywood in a room full of other whackos doing the same seem pretty silly?
The beer idea is cool but good luck with both the insurance and the liquor license.
I like the look of the actual "boulders" that I see in competition videos (like on climbxmedia.com). They even have top-outs. sweet.
One of the tough things you will have to deal with is the business side of things ... some gyms are climbing gyms for climbers. others are climbing gyms where you can have a birthday party with your 9 year old and her friends. any profitable gym is a lot of both, but balancing them is difficult.
Good luck. I like Pittsburg, but I'd like it better with a decent climbing gym.
o.k.
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xanx
Mar 14, 2003, 12:38 AM
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lots of cool angles, plenty of steep bouldering
good soft foam for the floor (tire is dirty and nasty and carcinogenic)
good, dedicated (fanatical) route setters and a good core group of hard climbers
a relaxed atmosphere (ask anyone who has been to Vertical Reality about our enforcement of "rules" and our staff!)
we don't have any real cracks (finger cracks from plywood joints) but i have never heard anyone complain.... we actually had a bolt on crack that we took down
eldo (sculptured) walls are a personal choice. at my gym, we tend to put on the least number of feet neccesary (very few jibs) so whenever we go to gyms with eldo walls it is like a whole new world... if i were a setter i would hate eldo because it would be harder to force moves, unless you said no smearing (but then why have eldo walls??). plus they rip up your shoes.
a massuese (sp???) would be nice....
good food nearby, sell drinks and snacks there, good pro shop
lots of bouldering.
more bouldering.
even MORE bouldering.
my advice: talk to Matt or Nick at Vertical Reality (856-273-1370).
just my neophytic(sp?) opinion.
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ckershner0
Mar 14, 2003, 6:52 AM
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lots of training stuff: a variety of hangboards, something to stimulate ice axe handles, campus board, rock rings, pull up bars.
Maybe look into some high density foam product for simulated ice climbing. The Adventures Edge climbing shop in Morgantown West Virgina have used very high density foam sucessfully on their small climbing wall. If you could pull that off, your gym would be amazing.
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moeman
Mar 16, 2003, 3:29 PM
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Get a lot of those auto-belay systems. They're great if your climbing partner cancels on you and you want to do something other than just boulder
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boulderpaul
Mar 16, 2003, 3:43 PM
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xanx, what u just described sounds exactly like go vertical. hahahahhahahahahha sucka
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ontario_guide
Mar 16, 2003, 8:01 PM
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Here's the best tip you will ever get to keep everyone happy. Have a party/group area/room and don't mix birthday parties with your regulars. There is nothing more annoying then a bunch of screaming brats running around while you are trying to work a problem. Don't piss off the b-day parties either because they are big money.
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misha
Mar 16, 2003, 8:54 PM
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If at all possible get topouts on the problems. Check out http://www.thespot.com. Have more bouldering than roped climbing since roped climbing in the gym is boring. Lots of steep stuff: 45 degree walls and consistent roofs. A huge varying fingers to fist roof crack would be cool to.
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misha
Mar 16, 2003, 8:56 PM
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Ontario had a good point. A local gym has a loft where nine year olds can eat cake without playing tag underneath you.
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philbox
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Mar 16, 2003, 9:43 PM
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Definitely go with the leadable roofs, long ones, with big jugs on em so that one can build endurance on em. Cracks mmmmmm love cracks, lots of cracks of various sizes. Definitely have an extensive bouldering cave. Make sure that the wall itself is textured with texture that won`t scuff off, a sound solid texture is key. The only thing though that is bad about texture is if you are going to hire out shoes they will get trashed in no time at all as beginners will try to bicycle their way up smears. Make sure that you regularly change routes. Develop regular a competition circuit for the plebs, this will create a social atmosphere.
...Phil...
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engien
Mar 17, 2003, 12:21 AM
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Extended Hours!
I have been climbing at the climbing wall in shadyside.. but I just got a new job and I work til 10 or so at night .. so there's no time to hit the climbing wall except early in the day .. or weekends .. and summer hours are supposedly 7-11pm, so I won't be able to hit it period during the week.
Your site says 24/7, that would be super cool .. dunno how feasble, but I'm sure I would be one of the people showing up randomly at 3 and 4am. But if not 24/7, being open til 12 or 1 or 2 would be great.
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leapfrog
Apr 4, 2003, 4:19 PM
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So the wall and climb north are the only gyms in the burg? I just started climbing and have been to the wall once. Can't say I'm impressed. It'll be nice to have a gym with nice facilities around.
Suggestions from a beginner:
* No taped routes. These are a big let-down. I understand you probably have to tape boulder routes, but nothing else should be taped
* Higher walls. I've been to a gym with 60 feet walls and these are nice. Those 20 feet routes in the wall are hardly a work out.
Wish you good luck.
P.S., how come I can't see your website? It's all black.
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