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westside196
Mar 17, 2003, 11:19 PM
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Im going to Joshua Tree for the first time, with some friends in the beginning of may. I don't know where to stay at. 3 of us climb, and the rest dont. We mainly boulder, and are looking for some stuff like V3-4 and down. I heard Hidden Valley Campgroud is a good place. I'm just looking for any suggestions from anyone.
-Robert
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t-dog
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Mar 17, 2003, 11:29 PM
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Bring tape!!!!!!!!!!
Tape up your hands or else you won't last long on the rock!!!!
Enjoy
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josher
Mar 17, 2003, 11:43 PM
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where ever you go, get reservations (if you can) Hidden Valley fills up quick.
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bandycoot
Mar 18, 2003, 12:25 AM
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J-Tree can be really difficult relative to other locations. Expect to climb V2-V3 if you are hoping V3-V4. If you show up on a weekend, camping is difficult. I try to show up early friday, or thursday if possible. If there is no open campsites, the BLM land is free and less than 5 miles from the entrance to the park (about 20 minutes from the climbing). Ask the rangers where it is. I don't boulder there often so I can't tell you much besides there are two cool rocks behind cyclops that I like, and I've heard Gunsmoke is the bomb. Saturday Night Live is a must, located 1 minute or less from the REAL hidden valley parking lot.
Josh
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frenznhiplaces
Mar 18, 2003, 12:38 AM
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Uh...Huh...*Smirk*...Phhhnnah!
Uh, yeah...You'll like Hidden Valley. The desert is beautiful too. I know, I found myself there once.
Worth repeating. Boulder your heart out! Take a stab at a Running Start. Loads of friendly folk to walk you through it.
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baldguy
Mar 18, 2003, 12:50 AM
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I just went for the first time a few weeks ago. Bandycoot's right about the camping - if you're going to arrive on a weekend, have reservations - I was glad I did. We were able to find a spot easily on Sunday afternooon (in Ryan - wasn't anything in Hidden Valley), but we got there late on Friday night, and if we hadn't made reservations, we would have been heading over to the BLM land ourselves. The only problem with the "reservable" sites are that they're at Indian Cove or Black Rock - neither of which are in the "main" park, but still a beautiful place to wake up.
As for bouldering, there's a guidebook here. I don't know what anybody else thinks, but I was totally overwhelmed by the amount of climbing there was to be had there. But I was looking to do routes, not bouldering, so maybe it's different.
Wish I was going back there this weekend...but Pinnacles will do!
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misha
Mar 18, 2003, 1:42 AM
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bandycoot had a good point. when i was first starting out and went to jtree, i flailed on a v1, and i was climbing v3 in the gym at the time. There are so many beautiful easy problems though, that grades are irrelevant.
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josher
Mar 18, 2003, 1:46 AM
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The Manx Boulders (mentioned above as the 2 cool rocks behind cyclops) have some of the hardest v2's in the park. That my usual first stop.
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mreardon
Mar 18, 2003, 2:18 AM
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I've done my fair share of bouldering in the park, and the first thing I would recommend is that you don't pay attention to the ratings. If you climb V3/4 now, expect to send V1 at Joshua Tree. The ratings are definitely stout and the rock takes some getting used to and can tear the hands up if you are not used to it.
For camping, see if you can get a reserved site at Indian Cove or Sheep's Pass (if you have a large enough group), or plan on showing up in the middle of the week to grab a site (Friday evenings they are usually filled up). If you get a site at Hidden Valley, congrats, but likely you'll end up at Jumbo or Ryan's.
As for places to go, Hidden Valley has a handful of the classics, but I would recommend the Manx boulders to warm up and get a feel for the rock. There are also plenty of flat landings there as well. The ratings don't go much higher than V4 and are fairly true to the rest of the park so you'll get a good start in terms of what the area will hold for you.
Next up, Real Hidden Valley for some additional classics and again, easy access and plenty of problems. You can cluster behind the day camping, or wander around Saturday Night Live and such. There are also plenty of problems around JBMF as well (Yaboo Dyno V2 is a fun close to the ground Dyno). Another great area with plenty of bouldering is Cap Rock/Stonehenge with a hundred problems in the surrounding area, as well as Ryan's with another couple dozen or so (not to mention eliminates etc. ).
If you're feeling bold and ready for solid V3, then check out "White Rastafarian" and "Fry Problem". And have a blast - it's some of the best bouldering you'll ever come across!
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cracklover
Mar 18, 2003, 2:26 AM
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Okay, I'll try again (the site ate my first attempt :x )
As others have said, Hidden Valley CG is the most popular choice. You cannot reserve a site there. But don't despair if you don't find a site there. First of all, all the campgrounds are pretty close to each other. If Hidden Valley is full, check out Jumbo Rocks CG - it's just a short drive down the road, and it's much bigger, thus more likely to have spots. Plus it's a really cool camground in and of itself.
Two other things about camping. First- don't believe the "Campground Full" signs. I've heard the rangers don't even bother to move that sign all season long at HVCG once things get busy. Drive around and have a look yourself. Second, climbers, on the whole, are a friendly bunch. If you have some beer or firewood to share, or you can act as a ropegun to get them up a 5.11 death route, many folks will be happy to share their site with one more tent. Some folks will even just do it if you ask (NICELY).
Have fun!
GO
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lox
Mar 18, 2003, 3:39 AM
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Bag it and go to the Tram.
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wallrat
Mar 18, 2003, 4:23 AM
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Worth mentioning is that you need to bring all your food, wood, and water with you, as there's none nearer than Joshua Tree. Check out Coyote Corner in town for showers.
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westside196
Mar 18, 2003, 4:52 PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys, it sounds like its gonna be a blast.
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mreardon
Mar 18, 2003, 6:52 PM
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You'll definitely have a great time. Make sure to post the pics!
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pbjosh
Mar 18, 2003, 7:19 PM
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Cap Rock is probably a good first area as in you can find a lot of moderate problems. Hidden Valley Campground, Barker Dam, Real Hidden Valley / JBMF / Turtle Rock, Ryan also have decent concentrations of problems, but for a "first day" of easy to moderate problems check out Cap Rock. Also home to the mega-classics (for jtree anyways) All Washed Up (V6), Soar Eagle (V7) and Pumping Monzonite (V8) if you want to play on something harder. All Washed up is a lot of fun as until the top it's probably more like V3 or so.
A guidebook (Dr Topo or the Gingery guide or both) is highly recommended to find your way around at the start. Don't take the grades or problems too seriously though, just find stuff that looks fun and play.
josh
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