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roughster
Mar 24, 2003, 8:32 AM
Post #1 of 2
(807 views)
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
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Friday:
Dave and I made it out to Auburn today. Despite having some wicked logistics problems (My family's minivan is in the shop leaving us with only a 3 seater truck), we managed to meet at the parking lot around 8:45.
I brought the drill, but my hopes were that Confusion Tactics would be dry. Hiking into the upper quarry quickly revealed it was still wet from Wednesdays rains :( The good news from that though is we decided to bolt a new line.
Now many props to Dave for this, he forked over a set of anchors some bolts and hangers. TY Mr. Dave as it is well appreciated! We put the bolts and hangers to immediate good use!
To the right of Confusion is a white streak that is rather striking and eyeballing it from the ground showed a good smattering of holds. Since it is far enough away from any of the other climbs, ground up was pretty much the only option. I geared up in my vast array of equipment and headed up.
Due to the overhanging nature and some small sections of bad rock, I ended up doing quite a bit of RB stacking. Normally I: RB aid up, get a feel for the stance then put a real bolt, then back to a RB, then bolt, etc... Well today was the first day I was actually going RB, to RB, then Bolt. The climb is not runout because of it, but the extra RB really helped me get the placements right the 1st time. I was very happy with the end results.
So after dangling around for an hour or so getting kidney damage, I finally made it to the anchor ledge, slapped in the anchors, and started cleaning top down. Some thunderous blocks were trundled as per the Auburn Mission Statement ;) Dave TR'd it, and was feeling the effects of climbing 5 days in a row (yes he is a madman). However, he did make a valiant second go (2 hangs I think) and gave the route a tender loving manicure on the way down from his second attempt.
In between Dave's 2 attempts, I gave it a TR burn. Some seriously tricky moves over a small bulge, then a good 20 feet of bouldery moves on a vertical wall. Very sweet. I hung around a bit on the 1st go trying to get a good feel for some beta, cleaned a bit on the way down, then ate lunch heheh :) I was really feeling the effects of all that overhead drilling and work (drill in one hand overhead while applying pressure while top stepping equals tired Aaron). Bolting ground up is a complete body work out that is rather brutalizing both mentally and physically.
After seeing Dave's TLC for the route I knew I had to at least give it one burn on lead. I didn't have much hope for the send from being so fried from the bolting, but I figured at least this way I could test some of the falls. I started up the route and at the 2nd bolt proceeded to botch every sequence to the anchors. Missing key footholds, skipping handholds, I was a mess. Dave said through the crux section I was making noises akin to the mating of large furry mammals. During that same time (strangely enough I don't remember the sounds), I thought time and time again, oh your out of here, game over. But I somehow managed to scratch, claw, and Elvis my way to the top. I was so pumped that at the top when you get these MONSTER jugs I had to sprint through them because I thought I would just peel right off at any moment!
I was rather surprised when I clipped the anchors. Not because the route was that hard (I gave it 11a but I really need others feedback as well as to get on it again), but because I really had no thought that I even had a chance of RPing. I was very happy with my focus to stick with it and avoid the dreaded "TAKE" shout.
Destructomatic 5.11a / 7 bolts is the newest addition to the Wreckage Wall. I am telling you, this climb (and many of the neighboring climbs) are absolute gems. They would be classics at any area. Days like today really make me realize the true potential at Auburn.... Man if access is ever resolved, this place is going to be amazing.
A small nature story. two sets of huge canadian geese were flapping around and honking all day. Ratehr commical at first, but by the end of the day I was getting a little tired of the honking heheh :)
Saturday:
Back out to Auburn for the second day in a row. Marcus called me about going out today, and despite being fried I think I had some misguided thoughts of being able to send Confusion Tactics even with my aching forearms.... On the hike in, saw the geese again, but this time they only were intermittenly honking, not the solid barage of honks from the day before!
Day started off with the shenanigans of doing Local Yokel and then traversing over to Confusions anchors to hang the draws. Next up Marcus did Local and traversed over to Bionic Bitch Slap anchors since that was his project and he wanted to hang the draws. After that, I did Local again to back clean the draws left on Local.
1st up for the project attempts was Marcus. Valiant attempt but it was pretty clear he had forgotten some of the beta. When he finally figured it out, he sent it up to the top. Lowered down and rested for burn two.
My first go on Confusion felt pretty good except (*WARNING* Blatant lame excuse ahead!) that some of the holds were wet and would leave my tips cleaned of all chalk. This is simply is not acceptable! Hehehe. Anyways, being the woosie that I am, I fell at the crux when my left foot just popped off the shite excuse for a foothold I use. Swearing, complaining, etc.. followed, then I sent it up to the top. Back down for rest for #2 attempt.
Menawhile, Marcus was itching for #2 burn on Bionic Bitch Slap. He looked much better this time and yes boys and girls he sent. WOOHHOOOO!!! Grats on the 1st 5.11 Marcus! Of course, he turned to me and said, "Ok I held up my end of the deal, now your turn." What??? Oh sure put all the pressure on me ;)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=11473
Not Marcus, but a good shot of Bionic Bitch Slap!
#2 burn on Confusion Tactics, cruised up to the crux and was feeling good, pulled into the heel hook...and...... knew I didn't have the juice to reach the crimp static, so I started to lunge.... but somewhere in the back of my mind I had given up before I tried and soon was falling. Very dissapointing :( Not because I didn't send, but becuase I really didn't feel like I had given it everything I had. After tramming back up, I could tell that a #3 burn would be futile since I barely was able to scrap my way to the anchors.
Didn't really matter though since we were only out for a 1/2 day (had to be home by 4 PM). The hike out I kept replaying in my mind the fact that I hadn't given my all. SOOOOO in order to feel good about myself, I bought The Professionals Video at Rocknasium on the way back. I had heard that Big Frank got the serious smack down on the video so I felt that I would feel good watching someone else get worked. Heheh misery loves company!! (Good video by the way, I highly recommend it). Actually by the end, I was rooting for Big Frank to RP something. Anyways, pretty motivating video!
The work into Confusion Tactics grows , which will mean it will be that much sweater when I send :) . I am really looking forward to next weekend and I really hope it doesn't rain so it is bone dry and prime for sendage.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=11726
No SEND for you! Confusion Tactics once again getting the best of me
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roughster
Mar 24, 2003, 1:38 PM
Post #2 of 2
(807 views)
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Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
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bump :twisted:
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